i need help figuring out what's wrong with my ignition system on my 54 plymouth flathead 6. i'm not getting spark at the plugs (wires and plugs both new along with cap and rotor). a guy told me that to test the coil i should unplug the distibutor and place the end of the wire near the engine and when i turned the engine over on the starter there would be a spark. well, there was no spark. does this mean i need a new coil? any help with this would be appreciated, i'm ready to start my flathead!
You might want to test to make sure you're getting voltag to the coil from the ignition switch first...and maybe double check the points and condensor, make sure there are no shorts in the small wire from the distributor to the coil, etc.
i think the ignition switch is fine because it turns over great just doesn't spark. i was told that was a good way to test the coil is there a better way than that? how would i test the little wire going to the coil? i know it's lots of questions, when it comes to other stuff i'm a lot better but wiring i'm a complete newb at.
this is a bad week for flathead mopars... i started a thread about the same thing. have you checked your points? are they set right?
they look to be. main thing is i'm trying to go forwards figuring out what the problem is. i'm trying to figure out a good test for the coil and then if i know that's fine i'll replace the points and condensor (already ordered them) i just don't want to deal with all that if it's really my coil that's the problem the whole time. does anyone have a good method for testing a coil. i've got a mutlimeter and all that just not sure what to test other than the spark test which it failed.
also should probably mention that it's been converted to 12v and that i didn't do the job, the previous owner got someone to do it.
Use the multimeter, set to volts, measure the voltage from ground (any metal part of the engine should do) to the ignition switch side of the coil (should be the + side, and it should be the side that does NOT connect to the distributor). you should get about 12 volts when the key is in the run position, and about 8 volts when cranking the engine over with the starter. Also, does it have a ballast resistor in the circuit? that would be a white porclean block, about 1/2" square by 2" long
The meter is a good way to make the problem smaller. From the sounds of it you either lost a fuse/no power or something isn't right or got knocked out during the cap/wires/rotor process.
okay, thanks fellas. it was just the little wire going from my coil to my distributor. i replaced that and got spark right away. now all i got to do is get my carb spittin gas and i think i'm good. not too shappy for a $400 car.
hot damn! it fired right up! it sputtered and coughed and needs to be tuned back to factory spec but she fired up! damn i'm happy