I wouldn't even know where to start searching for this. I need a radiator 18" wide x 16" tall. Could be taller and wider if the top corners were rounded off. Thickness doesn't matter, I have 6"+. Healthy small block Chevy, auto trans, 17" clutch fan and will build a shroud, open engine compartment. This radiator needs to fit on top of my crossmember, and inside a '39 Plymouth grille shell. I don't want a custom unit in case I break down in the middle of nowhere.
Try a radiator for a circle track race car. Those are the smallest I've seen but I still think they may be 20"-21" X 17"-18".
Check out transpro.com. They are also called Proline. 800-755-2160. They make Modine and Redi-Rad products. Hit the online store ****on and it should give you Modine and Redi-Rad. Good luck, -Abone.
Dude, that is an odd sized radiator. 65-66 Mustangs are 16 wide and about 18 tall. No law against flipping one on it's side....But you would have to move the rad cap bung. Nothing a decent rad shop couldn't do. (plus they are like $119 for a 3 core.) -Abone.
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If they are turned on end, won't the filler no longer be the highest point? I the filler has to be re-located, there goes the middle of nowhere easy fix.
I know you don't want a custom unit but here's just and idea. I went to pick and pull found an aluminium core with plastic tanks that had the right core size. It was a cross flow but I cut the tanks off and made up my own aluminium tanks which I welded to the existing end plates. Speedway sells the filler neck and the hose fittings. I've got about $85-90 into it and it fits like a glove.
i'll try to get some measurements tomorrow but what about a jeep cj radiator, three core <-- my jeep has a stock 304 in it, and the price wasn't horrible for a new one, or you find one in a junk yard.
i had a guy give me a B-Cool Radiator & had to mount it sideways to make it work(hey it was free & i'm a cheap ****er) & i'm using this to fill it with Moroso part # 63730 or 63740. they go in the top radiator hose...joe
Here's what I'm working with. It can't hang down in front of the crossmember because 1. The bottom hose 2. Tie rod.
I was over at http://www.racingjunk.com/ and they had some small ones for use in a dragster. Your probably looking at getting something custom built for it.
your best bet is to go to a midget supplier as they make smaller/odd sized units that cool very well. with this size radiator get as thick as you can and run an oil cooler too. there is no such thing as a "middle of now-where fix when it comes to hotrods so just get something that fits. if you're really worried about your radiator carry some JB weld and a bottle of stop leak. don't laugh you would be amazed how well it works. I've JB welded 100psi oil coolers that I have raced for multiple seasons. try this one: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/pl/900-949+3RD,950-34210_L.jpg,167,6667_Spike-Midget-Radiator.html
This may be the way to go. 11 3/4"x17". I wonder if that will be large enough for a 350-400 hp small block? I'd need to use an aux. auto trans cooler, and I could add an oil cooler just to play it safe.
Depending on how healthy the engine is, that small a radiator might be marginal on a hot day, especially at low speeds or idling in traffic. You'll need good airflow thru the core, so if you can squeeze in a shroud, that will help. Another possibility is to use more than one radiator. For example, you could add another small remote radiator using the heater hose connections. You might also consider adding other coolers to remove heat, such as a good oil cooler and a separate transmission cooler.
That is exactly what I plan to do, and a shroud, too. It will be an open engine compartment, and lots of air will be able to flow through and around the grill shell, with no fenders in the way. Maybe I should leave a gap between the radiator and the trans cooler?
If you add aux coolers, stacking them all one in front of another may not be a good idea. You would have the heat from one cooler heating the air going to another. The trans cooler could easily go under the ch***is somewhere. An oil cooler could also go elsewhere.
What if I leave a gap between the radiator and the trans cooler? The body is channeled, so there is not any room under the ch***is, or anywhere else, for that matter. the frame is Z'd up into the bed, with an air tank for the suspension up front, and the battery and fuel tank in the rear. Maybe in the very rear near the fuel tank.
Rich I got a brandy new Mustang radiator here, got it from Shoe cheap. Anyway I measured it for ya just to clear things up. The core is 17" wide and it is 21" tank to tank. With the flange it is 193/4 wide but that is the wide flange and it could be sliced off it also has a narrower flange on the front that is 18" and has some holes that can be used for mounting. your biggest obstacle is height on this one. I don't have a catalog handy but Summit has an aluminum radiator that is pretty close to you dimensions maybe if you look on thier site. its a griffen if I recall. It has no filler so you would have to put on inline like the roundy roundand dragster guys do. Anyway no little help I know but that's the scoop on the actual size of a mustang radiator. They fit a t shell well ( a little tall but not much) and a lot of guys use 'em with stock A shells. But as I recall you have some sort of a chopped shell right? ****** coolers are not really that big you can get rail mount coolers that will lay right along side the frame rail and take up about 1-1.5" of space buy whatever long they are. If you do the aux cooler with heater hoses you can put a very large heater core in front of the crossmember inside your grill shell that will give ou a lot of cooling believe it or not. We used to have to trip the heater on our old hoopties climbing the steap grades to the high desert in mexico. made all the difference in the world and got us over the top.
Thanks, Pork, I may have to just buy a Mustang radiator and sacrifice it to see if it can be modified to fit. I figured there would be some external flanges and bracketry that could be pared away to help get it in there. Once I put the body back on the frame, I may find I can raise the grill a little and gain the needed inch of clearance. I can also probably run some rail mounted coolers right along the front rails, since my engine sits fairly high, and with no hood or sides, there should be plenty of airflow.
The core can be shortened easy enough. Maybe get a used one and have it recored. If I can find it I'll send you the speck on that aluminum radiator I was talkeing about. Another option is if you can get the radiator in the shell to can kant it back a bit to make up for the difference in height. A lot of old studes had 'em that way. One other place to look is fork lifts and old jeeps ( old like in Korea old). Both of those have hot running mills and use small radiators. We used a fork lift radiator in a non trad door slammer turned streeter in the early '90s. The car was very small but the volks radiator wouldn't cool it on the street so the forklift radiator was available and a good solution.
The radiator I found for my Hup is 17" wide and 20" tall including tanks. Its the perfect size for a 16" fan. Mine came from an early 70"s Ford Zodiac. Might be a candidate for you.
Ford Zodiac, is that a foreign model? I never heard of that one. Still be a little too big, but thanks anyway.
i recently found that a 70 plymouth duster has something like a 17 x 18 core, top and bottom tanks, it will cool the 318....
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