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425 Nailhead Cooling... will this be enough?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BuickinaBucket, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. BuickinaBucket
    Joined: Jun 8, 2004
    Posts: 204

    BuickinaBucket
    Member
    from Newark, DE

    Hey guys,
    I'm looking for a rad to fit my roadster. To get the proportions just right, my grille shell is rather small (cut down Model A). I know I can have something custom made, but I am looking at other options as well. The car is a T-modified with a stock 425 Buick, and will not run a hood. I am considering the Jegs roadster/dragster aluminum unit. Will it be enough to cool that big Buick? Thanks for the help!

    Here's their blurb from the website:

    JEGS Dragster/Roadster Style Racing Radiator
    All aluminum 2 row 1'' core design with a compact overall size of 17''W x 19.5''H. Features an exclusive tube design that dramatically increases cooling, extra heavy reinforced die stamped tanks for added rigidity, Noculoc brazed core, TIG welded tanks and -12AN female inlet and outlet fittings. Utilizes -12AN o-ring type fittings (sold separately). Sealed unit requires an intake manifold or in-line style filler neck. Made in USA.
     
  2. Comet
    Joined: Dec 1, 2004
    Posts: 2,571

    Comet
    Member

    Rolf runs a 425 nailhead in his coupe. Might check with him.
     
  3. BuickinaBucket
    Joined: Jun 8, 2004
    Posts: 204

    BuickinaBucket
    Member
    from Newark, DE

    Yeah I'll have to send him a PM. Anyone else care to chime in? If I should decide to go custom, what would be an appropriate size? The dimensions I have to work with are roughly 18"x19".
     
  4. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    I'd say that radiator should do the trick, but I'm also wondering which water pump and pulleys you're running. It's real easy to push the water through to fast for it to properly cool. Was the motor an A/C motor? There are more questions than just will the radiator work.
     
  5. BuickinaBucket
    Joined: Jun 8, 2004
    Posts: 204

    BuickinaBucket
    Member
    from Newark, DE

    The motor is non-AC. Of course the pump is seized right now, I can replace it with whatever I like, so I could go either way. I know what you mean about the bigger pump pushing the coolant through the rad too fast. That problem would be exaggerated by the relatively small volume of the radiator I will have to run.

    I will be running the factory fan as well, but I'm not sure I can build a shroud for it that wouldn't ruin the look.

    Is it safe to ***ume that an exposed engine will shed quite a bit more heat on its own than one in an enclosed engine bay?
     
  6. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    Chances are that radiator is more efficient than the stock one. So if the water is moving through at the correct rate it'll be fine. A shroud would help though adn you can make one that doesn't look bad. A good fan can also help, the later fans (w/ clutch) are better than the early 4 blade ones and there are other options as well.
     
  7. BuickinaBucket
    Joined: Jun 8, 2004
    Posts: 204

    BuickinaBucket
    Member
    from Newark, DE

    Yeah it has a clutched fan. I definitely want to keep it in favor of an electric unit. It'd kill the look, ya know?
     
  8. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    I think a well thought out and fabricated shroud would look fine and help a bunch.
     
  9. Goztrider
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 3,066

    Goztrider
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    If you have to go with that specific dimensional design, I'd at least try to go with as thick of a radiator as I possibly could. Go with a 4 core of thicker (if you can find one).
     
  10. Scotch
    Joined: May 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,489

    Scotch
    Member

    Engine heat is pretty relative to compression ratio, too. If the engine is stone stock, it still might be around 10:1 - High compression engines were the rage when good gas was cheap.

    If you reduce the compression (through thicker head gaskets- which is the easiest, cheapest way, but not the most efficient) down to 9:1 or so, the engine will produce less heat (and power). With 425 cubes in a roadster, I don't think you'll need too much more torque, so maybe you could sacrifice some compression to ensure manageable temps.

    The radiator and fan ideas are all good too, and yes - an exposed engine sheds lots more heat than one ****oned up under a hood.

    ~Scotch~
     
  11. Voodoo Jim told me a few weeks ago to always run the 3 blade water pump. Non AC, I think. And, to always buy a new pump, not a rebuild.
     

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