Welder shopping.

Got back from the local welding store.

I wanted a 110v so i can use at work and home... or any where else without having to deal with a 220v plug.

I told the sales man i was goint to use it for typical sheetmetal and prbly if the heaviest, motor mounts onto frame welding etc.

the salesman told me that If I were to do that I'd have to get a 220.

I was looking at the simple Lincoln 175 MIG.. he suggested the 185C (220v MIG).

Is this true? or could I get away with welding V8 motor mounts with a 110v.

 

I wouldnt weld any frame type material with a 110er. They are good for sheet metal but thats about it...

 

You don't want the 110. Plug the 220 into your dryer plug, that's what I did until I installed an outlet.

 

if your engine breaks off you'll wish you spent a little more money and put in a 220 outlet. Its pretty easy.....

 

LOL
thanks guys.

so, what do you do when your dryer plug is in the middle of your house away from your car, in the garage?

I'm not much of an electronics buff.. but i know an electrical extension cord would be asking for a beating?

 

1/8th or 3/16th can be easily welded with a upper end 110 unit. That is if the operator knows what he is doing. I bet the salesman either works on commision, or doesn't know what he is talking about.

 

Also, I see that your new here. This gets covered about every week and the search function can provide you with lots of info.

 

Go to your local home center and get the wire and outlet, run it yourself, and leave a little extra buy the fuse box, so all the electrician has to do is hook it up. He can probably do it in a few minitues, for under $100, maybe half that.

 

I can consider myself , not knowing what i'm diong ..

so i suppose its best if I stick with a 220.

Thanks guys for the informative replies.

I did do a search but i couldnt get the confirmation i wanted.. I think cuz i'm such a damn newb.

graciass guys.

 

check out garagejournal.com, there is a welder buying guide/rating thread. go through the main page, not the forum, and you'll find it.

 

It doesn't matter whether you have a 100 or 220 if you don't know what you are doing. Poor welding is poor welding period. I have a Miller 310 amp heliarc and a Hobart Handler 135 MIG. The Hobart gets used 90% of the time on stuff up to 3/16" and I've never had a problem. Learn how to weld before you buy a welder. Check your local Vocational Schools for a night or day class that fits your schedule. Most if not all of your questions will be answered in the first couple of weeks and at the end of the course (usually about 10 - 16 weeks) you will be able to make an informed choice to fit your needs.

 

Thanks, I get what you're saying.
I'm not your pro welder, ive done some decent welding with a Mig.. Body panels, skins, etc.. just never done anything heady duty - frame stuff..

Also, haven't gotten my feet wet for a while. That's why Im asking.

 

ok, knowing i am gonna get blasted...here goes anyway..
.030 wire only requires 18 to 22 volts at 20 to 25 amps (dc ) to melt and form a good bead.. .023 even less....
any quality mig welder will produce the current/amps to do the job, however, a cheapo, bargain basement model will not have a good enough "duty cycle" to weld for more than afew minutes at a time.
if you use a quality machine ( i recomend lincoln powermig 140)yes , it's a 110 unit. you will get excelent welds with just a little practice..
easy way to tell quality from junk.... both the wire speed and amperage controls are infinitely adjustable (not click stops...) and the duty cycle is over 60 %..
i have owned a lincoln sp 135 ( the older version of the pm 140 above ) for many years and have built / repaired all kinds of stuff with zero problems...
with proper prep, you will be welding like a pro in no time..
btw, i also own a miller 220 wire feed and a miller 300 amp ac/dc set up for tig...i use the 110 lincoln for most of my welding jobs..
at one time i made my living by welding. even got certified..
only do it for fun nowadays..
good luck
dave

 

Good advice Dave. I started out as a welding apprentice in '76 wokring for Robberson Steel Company and was certified at one time but decided there had to be an easier way to put food on the table. our welds were checked by ultrasound most of the time and it surprises a lot of really good welders just how you can easily you can miss something and have to cut out a weld and do it over. I spend most of my time on a keyboard earning my living now and when I do get out in the shop I will burn some wire practicing for a while before weld on an actual project especially one where mine or my families life depend on it.

I cringe when I see someone go buy one of those 20% duty cycle made in a 3rd world country welders and plan on building their dream project frame with it. I usually tell people buy the best brand name (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart) you can afford with a duty cycle rating to fit their needs even if it means waiting to save some bucks.

 

Sorry for the messed up post, I am trying to troubleshoot a network issue and read forum posts at the same time.

Larry

 

The Lincoln 140C is also aluminum ready with an accessory spool gun ($195.00) nothing else to buy except the argon. I just bought one, nice set-up.