Bean oil gets kindda thick and gooy after use.... I drain it when the oil is hot! Better to add a few oz to the fuel so you can smell it!
OK - been away since I posted this. Like I said - religion & politics - lots of opinions. Please don't take this the wrong way & think I'm being a dick, but I didn't ask for opinions, I asked for before & after experience. I do appreciate the more obviously educated information in this post, but theories & conjectures, well...leave it for your buddies. From what I've been told by oil industry dudes - the base oil in each can (sorry, I still call 'em cans) is pretty much the same - it's the additive package that determines the label that goes on the outside (for mineral-based oils). I've also learned that most store-bought synthetics aren't true synthetics - Amsoil & a very few others being the exception. Yes, Diesel engines will be reducing zinc in the near future, but just because they're S-rated, does not mean that reduction has happened. The API S-ratings for passenger cars are tests & standards, not formulation edicts - the diesel oils still meet those standards. AFAIK, Delo & Rotella have not had their zinc reduced - yet. As has been pointed out, lifters & cam surfaces at the contact point are splash lubricated & do not receive any pressurized oil. So the wear-reduction part of the oil additive packages has a very significant impact in this critical wear area. As for aftermarket cams being the ones wiped out - it would seem that's the majority of the cases you hear, but I've heard of a couple OEM cams too. Now there's lots of reasons to wipe out cams - improper break-in, poor lubrication, just plain idiots putting giant cams in their street cars, etc. AND the MFGR can't control what the purchaser does once the product is shipped. I doubt big name cam companies have poor QC - no doubt there are exceptions & the occasional piece of shit rolls out the door, but the reformulation of the oil additive packages has to play some role. Back to the topic at hand... Has anyone else changed type of oil & had significant changes in pressure/temp/etc.? I know the Amsoil guys all swear by that stuff & will often testify (almost religiously! ), but kinda interested in mineral oil comparisons. Keep the Religion & politics out of the discussion please.
I don't know,I've run Pennzoil in everything I own since 1968 with no problems-changes every 3-5000 miles. Got 250000 miles on a 1992 Subaru motor with no major problems, knock on wood, and it's still fast. Perhaps it's not what you run, but how you run it?
Haven't heard anyone mention Royal Purple brand (synthetic) in this discussion. Anyone have any experience with it or an "educated" opinion? Frank
I've been running RP in my DD - and I'm not all that happy with it. Motor sounds noisier to me; will go to dino oil on the next change, as I'm no longer interested in the supposed extra couple of HP inna bottle that RP provides - the car won't see any more track time. Flat - Empirical information would be: a) oil pressure (cold and hot) on differing oil formulations b) Dyno testing with different formulations c) teardown results at similar intervals using different oil formulations. The only folks who can really afford to do this are either the pro racers - or the guys sellin' the oil. in either case, there's a bias, as the pro racer ususally is sponsored by some oil company. Also - and I know this as a fact: Multigrade oils do degrade over time, losing their longer chain molecules first. So - if you're running a 5w-20 oil, after a fairly short period of time, it's all pretty much 5w oil. I forget the exact degradation rate - but multigrade does indeed degrade, which is what would account for oil idle pressure drop. Single vis does not exhibit the same degradation rate - but tends to be 'thicker' cold. Personally... Pop (being a tool and die guy) brought the wetting (or lack thereof) to my attention, and suggested using machinist's cling oil - especially in splash-lubricated motors. so - what I do these days is dump in the flavor of the month dino oil, and season to taste with Lucas; bringing up the hot idle pressure in the process. in the '55 Chrysler, a quart of Lucas kicks pressure up about 10 PSI hot - but now I'm having leakdown issues with the lifters. and finally - I discussed the issue of opinions arising in posts like these with Bruce, and it's just something you gotta accept...Folks are gonna abide by what they think works - even if there's not a lot of science behind it.
I've been a fan of LE for a while. http://www.le-inc.com/ The Monolec 8130 I've been using is a "Unique blend of select synthetic and paraffinic base oils" They have a bunch of other different oils as well. Good stuff.
You're right. That's why I said up front my experience is just one data point out of millions. But I think the oil pressure hot/cold is something we can all do if we're brave enough to switch brands. For me, I honestly believe that brand doesn't mean a lot - it's how you treat your oil - regular changes, good filtration, PCV system, etc. I think the small differences in hot idle will be good for different engines - like my flathead that has some sort of clearance issue somewhere (I belive it's the pump body to block, but don't know this for sure). Otherwise, run what you like, change it frequently, & enjoy your engine. Right again, but all oil degrades over time - hence my admonition to change regularly. You get to decide based on your experience what interval is best for you and your application. (more religion & politics) That's why I didn't ask for what people think works - I asked for folks with before & after - I knew it was a religion & politics issue! I knew it wouldn't prevent opinions though... But dammit, it's my thread! There's very little real objective emprical data out there on different oils & their effects - then oiling systems & engines are so big of a variable that any emprical evidence may not translate well anyway. I agree - use what works for you & your application. BUT if you do switch, lemme know what happens!
Hey dudes i change oil for living and read alot about this Zinc prob and the best this i seen for this prob is an additive from BG products calles MOA, it is just smashed full of Zinc Ph and others additves to boost oil pressure too... A local oil change or Auto parts store should carry it try it.
No, that's not true. Seems that got started with cars starting to leak after going to synthetic. The problem is that there was already a leak there, just that wiht dino oil there was a varnish buildup that slowed/stopped the leak. Synthetic oil is extremely detergent, and will clean out the buildup, thereby exposing the leak. So it actually didn't cause it, just revealed it. It can also seep past seals that aren't quite as tight as they should be. I do know that you shouldn't break an engine in on synthetic, it's just ot slick and the rings won't seat properly. They say after about 5-10 thousand miles, you can then switch over to synthetic.
This kinda sounds like there beating there own drum, but Joe Gibbs Racing (NASCAR) is selling a break in oil they clam they went from a 1 in10 to a 1 in 40 cam failure rate.I've been looking for a true break in oil sense all this EPA zink issues started, From what i understand the zink is needed for the first 20 min. break in.
FWIW, you can still get the old fashioned "green slime" Kendall oil, from the same refinery, but sold under the name Penn Grade 1. http://www.bradpennracing.com/history.html
Don't forget about good old EOS, sold by GM dealers. ALWAYS use a can in a fresh engine , it's especially good on new cams/lifters. Not a bad idea to use it at least periodically even after break-in. Frank
you can get EOS from licensed AC-Delco dealers, too. I got mine from a local parts store that's also an AC dealer.
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