Well I bought a lathe for the school shop. We plan initially to use it for making small parts for our go cart and mini chopper project we have planned. Then I hope to make maybe some small parts for hot rod projects. I have never run one and will be learning as well as the kids! I've been reading the TC 9-524 (military manual for running a lathe) and came across this quote... "In order to properly setup and operate most engine lathes, it is recommended to have the following tools on hand. A machinist tool box with all wrenches, screwdrivers, and common hand tools. A dial indicator may be necessary for some procedures on the lathe. References, charts, tables, and other predetermined data on machine operations may be useful to lathe operators. Keep all safety equipment, along with necessary cleaning marking, and lubricating equipment, in the immediate lathe area to use as needed." What specific tools, charts, lubricants, etc. that I would want to have on hand? What other advice, projects, etc. can you recommend to get me going? Thanks-
Start with charts of decimal and metric equivalents, Regular and Commie tap&drill charts, and a chart listing all letter-number-fractional-metric drill sizes by size order and dimension. You can find all of these on the internet. Does anyone have the site Christian posted a while back with the gigantic military machine tools manual? That had a lot of chart and reference material at the end of a magnificent manual.
go to www.homeshopmachinist.net or www.practicalmachinist.com or www.chaski.com chock full'o good tips.you'll get a hundred different answers on what type of oil to use,but i've been using 30wt. on my atlas and it's just fine.
Here's Christian's link: http://metalworking.com/tutorials/ARMY-TC-9-524/9-524-index.html Good everything, the chart section is magnificent.
the most important thing is way lube/ spindle oil... Keep it oiled properly. course first tools to get are cutters, and mics/calipers.... Buy as you need
I am on a real tight budget and had to beg, borrow and steal the money to get this tool for the school shop. After some research I decided to try and find a decent import. Sure some nice American models are available used but they would all proabably need some sort of refurb to get them up and going again. I looked for quite awhile and talked to some people and decided to buy a Lathemaster 8x14 with some tooling. The reason I choose this model is that it is marked in inches rather than metric, has decent capacity (for a small lathe) has metal rather than plastic change gears and it came highly recommended. Hope it works out!
dan... where did you go to college? Not to sound rude but how did you get a teaching degree in your instructional area without ever running a lathe? i teach metalshop here outside philly.. I have 2 lathes at school (old ass ones) that are in use damn near every day.. so I can help you out with needs / wants for the lathe.. first NUMERO UNO.. you need a decimal equilivency chart.. you prob already have one and you know how to use it but.. you need to teach the kids how to measure really accurately.. and they must understand that 1/4 and .25 are the same etc etc.. your gonna need a caliper.. I prefer calipers that DO NOT have a dial for student use.. and the students need to be able to measure accurately with it and convert the fractional measurements to decimals... they (the students need to know that when you turn the crossfeed in .010 to cut they are actually removing .020 to the size of the material, thats critical.. as far as other tooling goes, a basic set of standard and METRIC wrenches should be all you need.. maybe a set of allen wrenches to adjust the jib screws on the carriage and crossfeed (and compund rest if you have one..) as the machine wears.. other questions...do you know how to set up the cutting tools? Do you have material to turn in the lathe?? and if so what material do you have? What are you going to do with the material?? (what project are you gonna specifically have the students make?) I am guessing that if your school just sprung for this machine they are gonna want every student out of your shop to come home with some turned project.. so think about something small and simple you can have each kid produce.. rather than just use it for " that part on the go kart project etc..." fwiw: we (I) use alot of BILLET aluminum for lathe work.. that often allows us to forgo the use of cutting fluid.. which in a school shop is a major advantage.. plastics are also good materials for students to "cut their teeth on" derlin rod or machinable wax can be had from IASCO-TESCO in the st paul area.. they supply schools all over.. ok last question....Do you have powerpoint on your school or home computer?? I can send you a lesson plan / powerpoint presentation that you can use right away.. its a safety/ parts of the lathe deal.. let me know sawzall jeff PS I pm'ed you with some other questions.. and my email address.. contact me later you are at a high school right? later sawzall
not all lathes cross feed cut like that. On my smart and brown 1024, if you move feed .010 it will take .010 of diameter. I never ran into another lathe like that, and it threw me for a loop the first time I was using it. ANyways good advice sawzall
Dan, Shoeners down here has all the cutting tools etc.Are you allowed to charge a shop fee? We did when I was in school. paid for lots of the tools and consumables
Been teaching high school wood and metal shop since 1967.Hands on high school industrial arts classes are on the way out down here as the old timers retire and Technology Ed. takes over . Better get yourself a pedestal grinder so you can learn how to sharpen lathe tool bits. And kids WILL FORGET TO REMOVE THE CHUCK KEY FROM THE LATHE CHUCK. I also put a "lock out" on the back gear so students can't shift from direct drive into back gear while the lathe is running. In the old days lathe manufacturers( like South Bend) used to give a comprehensive lathe manual with their lathe. Hope you got one. Good luck.
Tman-that is good to know, some local sources will be nice to have. Yeah, I do charge a shop fee, $10. Even at that I have some students who cant pay. I had to use all my shop fee and sponsor a dance and still get $500 from my principal to buy this. Sawzall- my degree is broadfield social studies. When I took this job the "shop" was vacant so I got a certificate to teach that field as well. The only degree or certificate now offered in Montana is Technology Ed. so that is what I got. The colleges in this state have forsaken vocational ed. and fully embraced tech.ed. Computers are an important tool but not the "know all, do all, end all" or college professors seem to think they are. My tech. ed class teaches computers, drafting and woodworking. With the lathe I am hoping to include some metal working and mechanics. I would love to offer a tech. ed. class and seperate wood shop and metal shop electives but that is not in the cards. My goal is get away from the tech ed. and return to the tradtitional vo-ed classes. I self taught myself the woodworking and plan to the same with lathe with much help. I dont have any specific projects in mind and would love to hear some ideas. And Sawzall, no vacuum former, friend has a stomp shear, could get a sheet metal punch and could probably round up some motors. What you got in mind? I'll email you tomorrow.
go look at http://www.lindsaybks.com/ ... you can get that south bend lathe book there cheep.... alos, lotsa other good books on introductory lathe work. Tells you how to grind your bits. Its excellent. Pretty much a pointed turning bit and a boring bar are all I use for the little projects I attempt on mine. use marvel mystery oil on aluminum and thread cutting oil for the limited steel stuff I've done... And yes, leaving the key in the chuck is imminent, I've done it twice... you can get plenty accurate digital calipers ($19) and dial indicaters $7 and stands $9 at good ol harbor freight...
First thing I was taught when I did my apprenticeship in centre lathe turning: 'Near enough' is NOT good enough, but 'dead on' is near enough! Second thing I was taught was: Never put your finger where you wouldn't put your dick! Afterall, you wouldn't slide your best friend inside a spinning 1" tube in the chuck to see how the finish is, would ya? Other basics to learn/teach, are about getting your cutting tools at centre height, cutting speeds, cooling, and which materials need/don't need coolant. Keeping the chuck key outta the chuck unless you are using it, never walk away with the feed left on, roll up your sleeves when working on the lathe, tuck your long greasy hair outta the way too, Never run a lathe under a SINGLE flourescent light tube, as it can and does make the chuck look like it is stood still. (That is wierd shit I tell you) And ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. It's no fun catching a chunck of broken tool bang in the retina. Trust me.
If you have never been to Lindsay Publishing's website, do check it out: Lindsay Publishing They have a huge collection of early technical book reprints (teens, twenties, thirties). I find them invaluable reference, even today.
Yorgatron, great idea! I'm gonna do that today on both keys! Great reading Sawzall, good stuff! Hey guys if you need some springs for your chuck keys let me know..
Get a copy of Machinery" Handbook. They are about $35.00-$40.00. In print since 1914 and upgraded every 4 or 5 years.A very large amount of information packed in a small book.
I just received a whole bunch of Popular Mechanics/Science/Mechanics Illustrated from the 30's and 40's. They have some great articles and pictures about building your own tooling and jigs. Also some great pics of old hot rods. When I get the scanner up I'll get some pics and post them.
The Jalopy Journal
