I'm looking for something better than normal cork or rubber valve cover gaskets for a 55-86 small block chevy. Does Felpro or anyone make a real good valve cover gasket for these engines? I know Felpro makes a printoseal line of gaskets for thermaostat housings and such, wondering if they do similar for valve covers. Thanks!
these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-1628&autoview=sku look similar to the ones that came on my crate big block that I bought in 1989, I'm still using those gaskets! almost 20 years later (these fit 59-86 non-stagger valve covers)
once the rocker arms are adjusted i use mr gasket ultra seal gaskets. they are cork with a black coating on both sides that seals to the head and valve cover once the engine warms up. i put cheap gaskets on for cam break in and then put the ultra seal ones on after i check the rocker arm adjustment. good to go and never any leaks.
They sound great............... until I saw the price. I guess you get what you pay for? It would be nice to be able to keep using them over and over though. I usually have okay luck with the cheaper cork gaskets. I think the secret is to make sure they're glued well to the valve covers, and make sure first that the flanges aren't bent on the valve covers, and don't overtighten the valve cover bolts so you won't bend (or crack) the flanges. For sheet metal valve covers, those wide tabs that spread out the load across a wider area of the flange help out. Cork gaskets swell up when they absorb oil, so they kind of adjust themselves to fit, but they need to be glued to the valve cover so they won't slide out of position. Once they get all crooked and take a set like that, they're hopeless.
You can also use our Perma-Dry Plus gaskets which are a little less money. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FEL-VS12869T&autoview=sku
Did you try EPay?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...7-350-400_W0QQitemZ300099440022QQcmdZViewItem $10 plus shipping.....
Rusty has it right. If it's a tin valve cover, first take a bodyhammer and flatten the bolt hole areas from the gasket side. Then glue a cork gasket in place-to the cover. Then get the flat "GM-SBC" washers, install (only snug-don't overtighten), run the motor, warm it up and re-snug the cover screws. You can pull them off at will, and not suffer any leaks.
Scored these rascals. I don't know exactly what year they are, but they are real deal Vette valve covers. I figure they're worth a set of good gaskets.
those are 70s vette valve covers, not bad....not real traditional, but hey..... and they also don't really need the good gaskets because they are well made covers.
I have never had a problem with the good thick felpros. Just be sure not to over tighten them, probably the next biggest cause of a valve cover leaks right behind junk valve covers.
They'll be going on my O/T 72 SWB daily driver. The stock ones seem to leak a bit even with FelPro gaskets. I'm hoping these will cure the issue. I gave 20 bucks for the covers. I knew they weren't rare, but I figured a set of GM manufactured aluminum valve covers would be good quality units.
I know this will sound stupid to many but I like the thick cork gaskets. Why? Because they look good. They look traditional. Cork was the state of the art for at least half of my hot rod experience. Sorry but I don't want blue gaskets on this engine. I'm sure they are the cats meow. Save them for your tuned port injection. I think Mr. gasket makes the double thick cork gasket. I like the fact that you can see them. I know weird...huh? If you adjust your valves every other night at the races you won't like them. I don't. I do wipe the head side down with vasoline to help with the sticking issue and use black weather strip cement sparingly ( I detest seeing traces of yellow gorilla snot) to hold them to the covers. I have a personal hang up about "blue goo" the first real popular silicone sealer that the piss poor mechanics slathered all over their engines. Anything that reminds me of that makes me cringe and shiver. Just a minor detail that some may understand and others will think is silly. Call me silly.
Some stocko FelPro cork gaskets glued to the covers will work great with those. No need to go spendin' extra dough there.
For years I ran the plain old cork, glued well to the cover, on my 301, constantly adjusting the valves(I turned it 7500 about 60% of the time)and had no problems. The cast covers being stable, and the gasket conforming to the irregularities of the casting. LEE
Thanks guys. I've had the stock steel covers on there awhile and they tend to start weeping periodically. I have to snug the bolts down again to stop the weeping. I think the gasket is compressing rather than the bolts loosening. I have lock washers and spreader plates under the bolts. I just figured I'd detail these covers and put them on with good gaskets to hopefully get rid of this mess for a long time. I'm not concerned with traditional on this little 72 pickup. I like leak free daily drivers.
Fel Pro VS12869AC are the thick cork and I think they have the metal sleeves in the holes to thwart the overtightening. Any Advance or AutoZone can help you out. Just look at anything VS 12869. They have rubber (R), cork (c), Thick cork (AC), etc. If the AC's dont work I'd change the covers. I've never had trouble with the AC's.
Resurrecting this old thread to see if things have changed much in the past 9 years. What is your preferred gasket for this application, and do you use any sealant or glue to hold the gaskets in place?
Thats what I do too, cork glued to the valve covers, and I reuse them over and over. Dont overtighten them in the first place, and they wont leak, and on stamped valve covers, use the load spreader thingys (pardon the technical terminology).
What's your preferred "glue" George? I've always been partial to Gasgacinch (maybe it's just because of the lady with the long bare legs on the can).
I use the black stuff, either one works good. You know, the black rubber gaskets probably work good too, I am just like most guys, I use the same stuff I always have as long as it works the way it should, I have been using cork since I was kid, it just feels right to me.
I have the thick cork ones that came with my Dart valve covers. Glued them to the covers with 3M black adhesive and nothing on the head side. Using a set of spreaders that distribute the clamp load more evenly, so far so good on my 355.
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