Its a C357-B intake, so that means 2gc carbs correct, 280 CFM/carb. This 2bbl rochester stuff is new to me so help me out... - what is the vacuum unit hanging off the rear secondary. - what are the fittings/screws just below where the air cleaner meets the carb body on the fuel line side of the front carb ?? - any idea on year ?? - any extra info ??
ok--lets start--Is the manifold good?---No stripped holes--coolant passage not eaten away?These are good manifolds--I just did a tri-power for my roadster and used this manifold.The carbs are all stock-type 2GC's --about late 50's--mid 60's.The vacuum pot is a choke pull-off--don't need it if your running a manual choke--and it should be on the center carb.The center carb is the Primary unit--outer carbs are Secondary units--that's how parts and rebuilders refur to them.The outer carbs are high-speed only--no idle curcuits. These are the carbs you want---side-feed fuel inlets.Speedway sells a kit to convert 3 carbs to proper tri-power units--I put in a pic of the kit--it only shows 1 carb base--you get 2 OUTER bases--you covert the center carb with a new shaft.Speedway part # 910-11589--check their catalog for price---something like $329.00. I have been using Vintage Speed for my parts--some people on here have had problems with them--but I haven't had any .It takes a lot of time to play with these---but the look BITCHIN!
Alright, i figured the carbs look like they are just thrown on the intake, with the vacuum for the choke, So i can safely assume they have not been setup for a true tripower configuration (secondary dumpers). I have read a bit about the new baseplates and how they seem to seal up better and really help out with setting them up. I found a 1964 2g,2gc,2gv manual online and it seemed to say the 2gv was the only carb with the vacuum pot and the 2gc had an electric choke mounted near the front of the carb and nothing hanging off the rear ?? I'll take them in to a few shops and get some help. I assume they are simple carbs to disassemble, clean, and reassemble with just a gasket kit. Do they usually need anything else ?? Any little tricks/tips ??
I had LOTS of problems finding GOOD float bowls---you can get new bases and air horns(carb top) but you gotta use original bowls---if I'm wrong--please somebody tell me. I ended up buying something like 20 used carbs just to get 3 good bowls.Most float bowls are plugged up from water/bad gas/crap.I used to work at a Chevy dealer as tune-up/carb/fuel injection guy---and the 2GC's are simple--but if the bowls are crap---you'll never get it to run.Cap off the outer carbs--get the center(primary) running good---THEN play with the outers.They can be a pain---but nothin' looks better than TRI-POWER!
i run those carbs on my tri power & i conveted the 2 outer carbs to secondary carbs from a article i had in R&C about 6 yrs ago( someoe might be able to post it).Only differance is i made my own progressive link & even though it works great its all on none side & it looks alittle "busy" i'll run some pics tonite. JimV
what others are saying is right. the vacuum pull of, belongs on the center carb (or you can use a manual choke instead). since the engine idles off of the center carb only, it is the one that needs the choke for cold starts. the outer carbs are to be set up as "dumpers" or secondaries with no idle circuits. by getting the correct tri power carb bases and throttle shafts for the end carbs, they will become dumper carbs, with no idle circuits. the butterflies on the new bases close 100% and do not allow any air to get past them, where stock butterflies will always be open a fraction, even if the idle adjustment screws are removed. you can block off all the vacuum ports on the outer carbs too, and leave the center carb to operate the vacuum stuff (distributor advance, and pvc valve). " what are the fittings/screws just below where the air cleaner meets the carb body on the fuel line side of the front carb ??" these are where the manual choke, or vacuum pull off mounted at one time. they can be blocked off. i would used the rear carb as the center, since it already has the vacuum pull off on it for the choke. you can remove the choke blades and choke linkage from the end carbs. alot of people just assume that you can bolt 3 carbs on and go...but there's a little more to it than that. but it's easy to make a tri power set up that actually works right with the correct info and parts.
I've gotta agree they are a pain to dial in but when you finally get it right it's a sweet setup. Great throttle response and good driveability. http://home.nycap.rr.com/stovertown/carbs.html
Thanks for the help guys...its not quite in my hands yet, those are the sellers pics but its being shipped today...i got a good enough deal if i have to put the bases on and rebuild the carbs i'll still be several hundred less than buying a running set.
I found a set of tri power carbs that needed attention but no intake. On ebay I found a cd copy of the original shop manual for these carbs and It was fairly cheap. Like 10 or 15 bucks. It goes thru rebuild and set up as well as tuning. ...........Mine are still on the work bench. good luck
I haven't had the problems with them that Hot Rod Willie has. But I will take a Rochester 2G over any 94 or 97.... The tri-power kits are pretty nice though you can do most of it yourself...
Try these: C:\Documents and Settings\Valerie\My Documents\RCB Index.htm C:\Documents and Settings\Valerie\My Documents\THE CARBURETOR SHOP - Carburetor Identification.htm These really helped me in troubleshooting and parts replacement. Also a pic of my linkage---made it up from pivots and links I found---
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