No start just Manifold backfire

What are you using for reference material for the work already performed? Book? Is there a local mechanic in the loop on this, or just a parts guy getting rich?

Compression check will help determine health of valves/head/cylinders. Without that, you are firing blanks...

 

Im barrowing mechanic books and other books. Yes there was a mechanic milking tha crap out of me " this part should fix it this time" 1500 bucks later nope nothing so im trying to figure it out... Trying to get some money together fo a rebuild book and a few others but money tight right now...Still waiting for TAX INCOME What is happening is that im going by what the book says then running by ya after i dont it with no positive results makeing sure i dont it right. For the most part i believe i have followed the "books" instructions.When i ahd one availble... The lack of tools and a shop make it hard.... compresson test can ya give me a lil info on it and what tools i might need

 

$1500 thats alot of money, are you sure you cant take a couple of pics so we can see what your working on, your motor should run even if it has a blown head gasket or burnt valve maybe not well but it should still run.

 

here some pics

 

My car is running but only when i keep it throttled up..

 

perform the almighty compression test, and find the true answer, your buddy fucked your motor up.if it was running fine until your buddy drove it one day, i doubt its an ignition problem that couldn't have been fixed without removing the distributor itself.sounds like your cam lobes aren't lobed anymore.

 

What does this mean? How well does it run? How high do you have to throttle it?

I'm losing track. Have you done any adjustments to the carb?

 

the carb came factory adjusted and i have not touched it and to keep the car from running from start i must keep my foot on the pedal very lightly or it will die. Around 1500 rpm. i will do a compression test and let everyone know how that goes
Anything i need to look for while i test?

 

Dude: I feel so bad for you, it sounds like me trying to do stuff on the computer. You are waydeep in this fix, my advice is to get back to the basics. They are: compression. fuel, spark, timing. Start with the easiest, don't trust the fuel, it could have water in it. After all the cranking your plugs are probably fouled, new plugs are cheap insurance. Electronic ign does not fire wet plugs as well as old points ign did. Remove the old plugs from the engine. Put the new plugs into each plug wire, all 8 at the same time. Lay the plugs on the engine for a good ground, get someone to crank the engine and make sure you have a sharp or light colored or blue spark at every plug. An orange or yellow wimpy spark might indicate a weakcoil or distributor problem. If all that is ok then do a compression test on every cyl. screw the gauge into the plug hole and crank the engine untill it gets to the highest reading on each cyl. write down the results. Readings should be 100-125 psi = fair 125 - 140 or higher is good. all should be within 15 -20 psi of each other. All being too low could mean wrong valve timing.(gears-chain worn or out of phase) one or two low can mean blown head gasket or valve train problems. If all this is good then check timing. Put finger in#1 hole, bump starter till it spits your finger out, that is compression event. put the dist in so rotor points to where #1 is on cap( should be front left viewed from drivers seat) Now run the other wires 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise. Remember the cyls are 1357 left bank 2 4 6 8 right bank view from drivers seat. If all that is ok with new fuel - it will run! If you need to check the cam timing let me know. I can explain how to check it without removing the rad, water pump and timing cover in just ten minutes. Also when you put the dist in, put it at 10 btc and place the trigger wheel directly at the pick up coil, it'l run! then use a timing light. Hope I helped you better than I work this damn computer. GOLDY

 

Is that a thirdgen Camaro?

 

I hate to say this but if youve spent 8 months and who knows how much money replacing parts that may or may not be bad.It might be time to spend a few dollars on a mechanic.You should be able to find one that will do work on the side ,Im a mechanic and I do side work all the time. This might not be what you want to hear but I see people all the time who spend far more trying to fix it themselves than if they just payed someone to do it GREGG

 

the last guy who looked at it replaced plug,wires and fiddled with it for a week and all the work i can see done to it was the old carb was tuned very out of wack to make it seem like it was running. charged me almost $2000 and slapped a lean on it cuz i didnt want to pay for him not fixing it. So i rather replace ever part in it then have an other dude screw me like that again. This just gives me a reason to tell my wife i need new heads and cam....

 

OK. You've checked for a stretched timing chain and it checked OK. It's very difficult checking an engine going back and forth on these posts. But with this bit of info I'm starting to think the engine got over-revved and some valves hit the pistons. This would be confirmed with some zero readings from a compression test. (You might really need those new heads after all!)

As others have stated, let's go back to square one and make sure the basics are covered.

Compression check. All eight readings should be with 10-15%.
Pull all the plugs and hold the carb open while you crank.

Timing is set at 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center. We've told you how to determine and set that.

Fuel. The car sat for 2 years. Take the gas cap off. Does it smell like gas or does it have a sweet smell? Is it full of water? That might be some of the problem today but doesn't explain the original problem that caused you to park the car two years ago.

Tracy

 

I can smell the fuel as its running plus i have areadly refilled with fresh gas (was empty while it sat) Ill be doin the compression test next week when i get a few bucks for the tester/kit
kEEP THOSE IDEAS COMING

 

If you're going to continue working under the hood, a compression tester is a good investment.

I'm going to see if I can find somebody in Midland on some other boards I go to.

Tracy

 

This suggestion comes from another forum:

"Tracy can you tell the guy to check the dizzy cap too see if the button that toughes the rotor spring is sticking through the top of the cap. If not remove the coil pack and remove the button and then the rubber washer. Then install the button then the rubber washer that is the correct way to do it. You see the rubber washer causes a gap 1/8 between the button and the rotor spring. I bought a camaro for 300 hundred dollars with a MSD 6A and a 650 carb and aluminum intake and cragar five star racing rims they said the heads where bad all I found was the washer installed wrong I guess that happened when they installed the MSD 6A coil pack."


Free fixes are always the best. But I don't know how this situation could have happened just by driving. Worth a check, though. Maybe the washer has disintegrated? I've never worked on a distributor like this so I'm not real sure what this guy is talking about.

Tracy