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How much valve spring on sbc?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shaggy, Apr 26, 2007.

  1. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    Well i'm building a 301 chev with duntov cam and 2.02, 1.60 valves and was wondering if i run the set of Speedway solid lifter valve springs if it will be too much spring for the motor.Comp cams who i got the cam from suggests a weaker spring but will it hurt me to run these. This motor will probably be abused more than most too.

    Sorry i dont have the numbers with me now.
     
  2. ray
    Joined: Jun 25, 2001
    Posts: 3,798

    ray
    Member
    from colorado

    if the cam maker is recommending a weaker spring, go with a weaker spring.

    do a little searching on the hamb about flat cam lobes and you'll understand why.
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    uhhh...yeah....run what they say, or the cam will go out quick
     
  4. 29bowtie
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,234

    29bowtie
    Member

    Those cam companies do a lot of research,and listen to a lot of feedback,LISTEN to them!!!:D
     
  5. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    What's already been posted. If you want to go to the trouble (and it won't be if you were to wipe a cam) break it in with a set of the oldest, weakest springs you have at 2,000-2,500 rpm for the first 20+ minutes (W.O. shutting it down) then switching to your permanent running springs. Be sure to put a can EOS (Engine Oil Supplement availaible at your Chevy dealer) in the crankcase for the first fire-up.
    Most Chevy factory cams call for spring pressure in the neighborhood of 90-100 lbs. on the seat. See if that corresponds with the cam maker recommendations.

    Frank
     
  6. All this, and racing oil because it still has some of the stuff that's taken out of current oils. Also, make sure you check the OPEN pressure. You'll never see a base circle go flat, so seat pressure's NOT as important as open pressure. Make sure it's within the limits of what Comp says. It's the nose/lobe that goes flat. Remember that
     
  7. 68ragtop
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 55

    68ragtop
    Member
    from Texas

    Follow the Comp cam guys recomendations the know what they are talking about I agree with Groucho about the open spring pressures to much spring pressure when the valvle open will bind and put xtra unneeded wear on the cams nose thus/ premature cam failure
     
  8. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    okay thanks
     
  9. I break in cams on Rotella or Delo, but I understand the new rotella has the zinc removed. Doh.

    Anyways - run a good diesel oil for initial break in and use lots of cam lube. A can of GM EOS is a a good insurance policy also if its a stiff cam. Never break in a cam with 1.6 rockers. Use stockers or the special 1.2 rockers to break in the cam.

    The rowdier the cam the less margin for error in break in. With that old design cam with its soft lobes, you can probally get away with good oil and a can of EOS.
     

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