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I need the rundown on simple basecoat clearcoat painting.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gasser52, May 1, 2007.

  1. gasser52
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 644

    gasser52
    BANNED

    So im planning on painting my 57 myself, renting a apaint booth and such. I have a small amount of PPG paint that i want to use and get some more to match. So what exactly all do i need? So i spray on primer (do i add anything to the primer?) then get some basemaker or reducer to add to the base color? how is the ratio? half reducer to half color? then when thats dry i put clear over it with what in the clear? reducer? and then what wet sand it with 600 grit and then buff it? How much will all this cost???? Can someone give me the basics and cost???
     
  2. Berky
    Joined: Feb 4, 2006
    Posts: 403

    Berky
    Member

    For the first coat you would not use primer, you would use sealer. It goes on smoother. For the application and mixing of the base and clear you can go to the PPG website and get the MSDS sheet. It will have everything you need to know.
    As for cost, it all depends on the quality of paint. I have done cars for 300 up to 800 for the paint and supplies and that is for a basic one color car.

    Mike
     
  3. Berky
    Joined: Feb 4, 2006
    Posts: 403

    Berky
    Member

  4. gasser52
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 644

    gasser52
    BANNED

    so you seal it, then prime it?
     
  5. Anti-Trend
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 45

    Anti-Trend
    Member
    from SW WA

    for the bug I used some white rattle can sealer before I put on the white primer. You can pick it in baxters in vancouver. I might have a quarter can or something laying around if you want to check it out.
     
  6. gasser52
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 644

    gasser52
    BANNED

    Nick, im trying to aviod anything that comes out of a rattle can here, im hopeing to get big bucks out of the 57 if i ever sell it, which is why im going with quality paint haha
     
  7. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    I've found that PPG products have instructions on them, as well as the information on sheets as Rusty Rod says. Gives you what to put when, mixing ratios, what to mix with what or so on. They're not keepin secrets. Or call the paint store.
     
  8. jusjunk
    Joined: Dec 3, 2004
    Posts: 3,138

    jusjunk
    BANNED
    from Michigan

    Id start with a good epoxy primer.. then a good hi fill primer. Both use catalysts to harden. Next wet block sand to get it good and smooth. Oh ya dont forget the pre sanding cleaner and pre painting cleaner.. Then spray your basecoat. let it dry then spray your clear. Depending on which base you spray it may or may mot need catalyst. The clear will. Let the clear harden over night then wet sand and buff. Doing it right with all ppg products ill bet you have 2k in materials with sanding disks and tape and etc etc..
    Dave
     
  9. JDHolmes
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 918

    JDHolmes
    Member
    from Spring TX

    what jusjunk said. If you've got rust inhibitor, don't use etch primer. Clean it GOOD before you start and during the process. You didn't mention body work. I insert body work first unless the car will be sitting outside then body work is after epoxy primer.
     
  10. Motojrefinish
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 870

    Motojrefinish
    Member

    How far are you along? If you have already primed and blocked a few time then you are ready. Sealer first, then your base. Last your clear. Your mix ratios are going to depend on the paint that you are using. I just finished painting my fifty last weekend and i have about $ 2000 in just paint materials. That includes primer, sealer, paint, thinner, harderners, flake, and clear. My tip to you is find a heated booth it will make your job go faster.
     
  11. Motojrefinish
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 870

    Motojrefinish
    Member

    Also what grit you use to wet sand before buffing is going to depend on your painting experience. 600 is too co**** but if you get alot of runs and dirt it maybe your only hope.Try 1000 grit then move towards 1500 or 2000 grit, your buffing will go faster and look better in the end.
     
  12. First get the proper breathing apparatus and use it all the way thru.
     
  13. ratrodhell
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 22

    ratrodhell
    BANNED
    from sacramento

    first of all is all your bodywork done?, if so prime it is it primed? blocked? then seal it in an epoxy sealer a dp or cheaper brand it will cost alot of dough to paint the car some bases are a ratio of 8-1-1 versus others are 1-1 and same with the clear a 4-1-1 it will cost roughly a 1,000 to do your car right. once you have painted and cleared it depending on how heavy of a clear...attleast 3-4 coats wet block 1000 then 1500 and your fine. buff,polish.
     

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