I am painting the firewall and frame on a '61 Ford. The engine, front sheetmetal and wiring is all off so I can clean everything up pretty good. Problem is, I need to use regular spray paint instead of using a compressor this time. What is the most durable spray paint to use for this? I plan to prime and put a semi-gloss black over it. -Dave
I used to be able to find Plasticoat brand Satin Black at alocal parts store. It was awsome, dried fast laid out nice, and was durable. They changed to duplicolor and the satin is not the same. I have good luck with both Krylon and Rustoleum. They seem to take a while to dry. I good quality primer is a must.
I have always liked Rustoleum for ch***is stuff. It seems to be longer lived and more durable than the others.
I've been using Rust-Oleum's hammertone for ch***is parts recently, and I LOVE it! Minimal prep - no priming; the stuff flows GREAT, dries faster than regular rust-oleum and if you goof up - lay down another coat and you can't tell where you stopped or started! I'ts $5 and small change at wally world...
I've had a parts store simply mix some automotive-quality enamel and put it into an aerosol can for me. (un-catalyzed paint so it doesn't setup inside the can) Then you get a good quality paint, and it was fairly cheap for me. Obvisously, they need the machine to package and pressurize the cans.... Gary
I am going to paint my sons JEEP fenders they have gone to faded grey. What works good on those plastic type fenders?
Sherwin Williams "Industrial and Marine Coatings" flat black smokes everything on the market. Not sure about plastic though.
I know it's not the House of Kolor **** at Wal Mart. I had to try it as much as I hate Wal Mart and the **** ****s...... Just reinforces me not going back.
I have had good luck with Van Sickle brand Its an agri paint found at farm stores but it dries SLOW takes about 24 hours (comes in all tractor colors)
Since I can not find Plasticoat anymore, was a great rattlecan paint , I have found that Duplicolor from my local Napa store does a good job , sprays a nice fan.
rust oleum. local home depot has flat, satin and gloss. also in pints, quarts and gallons, hard deal to beat for price and quality.
"Zero Rust" black is kind of a matte black color. Looks okay and is pretty durable, but it takes a long time to dry.
I've always liked rustoleum too. Put on a few wet coats and you get a nice gloss and tough finish, just don't touch it for a few days.
i knew a guy in the 70s that painted his 55 with rattle cans,took 25 cans and looked like hell, back then he could have got a cheap paint job for that, well almost
Plastikote engine enamel for anything glossy. If you're talking megastore stocked items, stick to the engine paints, whatever brand you buy. They seem to have a higher solid content and last much better. However, in your shoes, I would skip premade aerosols. Find a local paint store that makes aerosols, and go have them mix the color with real automotive paint. Yes, it will cost $2 a can more, but the end result is FAR superior in terms of gloss and durability. I don't like cleaning the paint gun for anything smaller than a fender, and buy custom aerosols fairly frequently. Real handy. good luck!
I agree. I got some of that at my local Autozone to use on my engine block and it looks great. The satin is too shiny and the flat looks powdery. The low gloss is perfect...what satin should look like, and it dries pretty fast. It's about $5 for a tall can.
i just repainted most of my tractor yesterday with new holland tractor paint nice fan,very high quality...you just gotta pay about 7 bucks a can best bang for the buck outside of white and blue is rust oleum... throw down a coat of their rusty metal primer,let it dry,and you should only need 1 nice even thick coat..at least thats all i ever use.
That guy wasnt in ky was he? A guy I know said he painted a 55 he had in the 70s with spray cans and said it looked great but????
Forgot to mention, I've done flat black engine compartments, and won't be doing more. The flat is way harder to keep clean than a gloss finish. And it's totally light absorbing when wrenching. No thanks for me.
the best flat black in the business is from Brownells, Inc. in Montezuma, Iowa...www.brownells.com...it is an air cure flat black called Aluma Hyde II...it is the best stuff, in my opinion...I've used it on my bikes, small parts and entire cars...good luck- Darren
Thanks for all the feedback. I went the rustoleum route with primer and it looks good. it does take a while to dry, but I have a little time before I can work on it again so it shouild not be a problem. I will let you know how it works after it is totally dry. See attached pics. -Dave
Maybe it's me,but I have had significant issues with Rustoleum and compatibility with other sprays and existing paints. I am now using John Deere's Blitz Black and I am very, very happy with the results. My second choice would always be Krylon. Rustoleum's find brushed on stuff in my yard,but I won't spray it on my car.
Its not satin but if you are looking for a good gloss black, Mercury outboard motor paint is the best gloss black on the planet. slick as gl*** and coats quick!
I'm in this boat too -- never had much luck with Rustoleum. I do like Krylon. They have a "semi-flat" black which is a real nice satin. Flows good, dries fast. I use a Krylon primer, and I like the way it comes out. I used a semi-flat satin green on my heater (see today's post) and it's real nice. Just my $0.02. Pete
Duplicolr Hi Temp Engine or Exhaust Paint - I swear by it VHT Engine colors are pretty good but I prefer the way the Duplocolor Sprays