I have a '61 Buick LeSabre with rust in the rear frame. When I look at the frame as a whole, it seems like the rear section is a different component that was assembled to the rest of the frame (seems to fit inside the main frame). Is that the case? If so, is there any way to swap the rear section out of a donor car into this one? It doesn't seem like it is welded together or even bolted, so I can only guess it is some sort of press fit created by heating/cooling the main frame. Am I way off on this? It wouldn't surprise me if I was. I guess in general I am wondering what the best way would be to swap the rear of the frame out, if it is even possible or a good idea. thanks, Fred.
tough to get a good photo of the area, but here is my best to show what is going on: here is the reason I am asking: yuck. thanks, Fred
Hey Fred, The route I'd take to repair this frame is as follows: Get this thing on a lift and take a good look at All of the frame on this vehicle. If all of the rest of the frame looks ok you could go with a frame clip from another Buick from before the rear kick up, or possibly from the rear torque boxes back. I wouldn't suggest you splice in the middle of the arch of that rear frame kick up. Go with a scarf splice, not a butt splice and fish plate it. Swankey Devils C.C.
Thanks for the suggestions. It seems like the rest of the frame is solid. The car had frickin' snow tires on it in the rear when I got it and the whole rear frame, body mounts, inner quarters were covered in dry mud. I can only assume the frame was soaked in this for years, which decayed it so much. The car has trailing arms, so there isn't much load in the back, which is probably good. thanks again, Fred.
GM has to manufacture those originally, there is no machine that makes frames out of one continuous piece of steel. Thus it's totally reasonable to disassemble and reassemble the frame if you take time, and have a skilled welder lay the important beads. Being involved with dirt track racing has really opened my eyes to the reality of clipping frames. Once the car is stripped, really not that difficult. Pimpin's words about inspecting the rest is solid advice. The whole frame has seen the same conditions that made the rear rust out, and there's likely hidden pockets of rust up front. Take a sharp awl and try to poke through the metal anywhere it's suspect. If you can poke thru any of the front section, it's time for another frame.
That's what I was thinking. I'm hoping to learn how they are assembled, so I can figure out a good plan on how to dissassemble it. For now, I might just cut out the bad area and creep up on that section where they are joined together to see if I can figure it out. Pimpin Paint, I assumed the following are my options for repair, but I think you are suggestion the lowest technique. Am I on the right page with that assumption? For now I just want to get the car a little safer. I have checked out the rest of the frame and appears solid from the rear axle hump forward.
Hey Fred, "If", "If" the frame rails look sound i.e. no deep pits, same general thickness throughout, than yes, I'd go with your computer illustrated plan. That's a great teaching/illustration tool you've shown there! I wish I had that ability. It was pointed out to me , a short time ago ,that computer wasn't spelled as komputer. Good luck with your repair. Swankey Devils C.C.
Here's a great point of reference. Look under a straight truck, ramp truck, box truck, whatever. Most of those have been extended or shortened. My buddy's O/T chevy has open C channel frame that was straight cut & butt welded when it was shortened for flatbed installation. The weld is covered on one side with a 4"x4" square plate (like 1/8" thick) turned on edge like a diamond, and fully welded around the diamond. This is a flatbed that hauled a huge water tank everyday for 20 years. Goes to show how unengineered these things can be if you have strong welds.
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