OK so here's the deal .I'm running a 350 crate motor with about 20 miles on it and a brand new steal radiator with a brass model A top that's also new that i believe 17 '' by 13'' the width of a deuce shell so that's the skinny inn what I'm running ..now here's the problem, the damn thing runs super hot it gets up too 210 in about 15 Min's i went for the 1st drive and and drove for about 15 Min's running fine then i get to my buddy's house and it starts boiling . i had it too far advanced but SamIam retarded it for me by ear .also i was running a 180 t stat and took it out and it seems to run a smudge cooled but i could be tripping SO i put a new t stat in .is there any secrets of what water to run or is running 1 gal coolant to 2 1/2 gals of straight water o i also have a puller elect fan that's 13 x 15 . anytimes on why or what to do to get it to run cooler different oils any thing ? here's another question i set the oil pump pickup tube about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the Pan and then welded it it works great but ..here's the second problem the oil pan has a dent in it now .i have heard it the pickup tube is to close to the pan that it will suck the pan to the pump inow i was wondering true cause of the dent i spoke of earlier ? now i was driving dove my buddy's road kinda fast and its a dirt road with massive pothole or should i cay craters .and i could possibility dented the pan on his road seeing as i was doing about 25 mph trying to get to his place for a safe place to shut the car down any info would would be appreciated thanks kyle <center> </center>
o its also a 69 camero short water pump .l.is there any way to tell if the pump is indeed pumping its brand new dont make noise but would just like to check it to be sure and is a 69 pump spin the same direction or is it reversed ?
Did you make sure to bleed all of the air out of the cooling system? Also your pump should be fine, you can't turn the pump backwards with a regular v-belt, only on serpentine systems. Your timing can definately effect it, as will the thermostat. You might try a 160. Also I've heard that Red-Line's Water Wetter actually works really well. I haven't tried it yet, but plan on using it in my truck this summer, I have traffic cooling issues. Hope you get it sorted out. - Jeremy
I would make sure timing is right,as said earlier make sure you dont have an air pocket.Another thing is make sure the lower hose doesnt collapse when running it should have a spring in it to prevent collapsing.You can take the thermostat out and put the housing back on and remove upper hose from rad and start engine to check for waterpump flow
I Have Used Water Wetter In Many Of My Cars And It Really Works.be Sure That Your Fan Is Doing What It Should. Does It Have A Shroud? Does It Have Any Type Of Temp Control On It? Deucemanab
I would put a higher t-stat in it, you want the water in the radiator to cool off before it goes back into the engine. Whats the pound rating on your radiator cap? I could be wrong but I think the t-stat temp rating on a 69 camaro was 195* , and like the others have said , get a fan shroud.
Your photos are not so good. What is in the radiator shell as a grille? From the photo it looks like a solid sheet with an oval hole cut in it.? You must have good airflow through the radistor core. Try blocking off any "air" spaces around the sides top and bottom of the core. An original shell is flanged in the grille hole and sits flat on the frame around the core. Check it out. Water wetters and such should not be necessary in car with a stock crate motor. And a 180 T-stat should be used. With a good puller fan you should have no cooling problems relating to the fan.
it holds right around 4 gals of water as i posted before .. as for the insert it a duce insert .what you were seeing in the pis was the the rad, its unpainter . and as for the water pump i was just thinkin that the parts guy screwed up and gave me a reverse pump im just trying to go through different stuff before i re core the rad
Does the radiator flow right? When it gets hot, is the entire radiator hot, or are there cool/cold/cooler spots which would indicate a blockage or stopped up section? That is a pretty small radiator. I'd also check for air pockets though. When you first fired it up, did you let it run at all for any length of time, or just jump in and take off? Gotta check to make sure the thermostat is opening and working by checking the flow.
No offense intended, but, are you sure it is running hot? Easy to get a mismatch on the gauge/sending unit. I have an old mechanical temp gauge I use as a backup to any new gauge/sending unit I put in. Be surprised how often the electric ones are off 15 - 20 degrees, or they are correct at 150 degrees and way off at 200. Just a thought. Check your fan again, some of them are designed to run clockwise, some counterclockwise. Always use a shroud.
it a elect puller fan so just the standerd shroud to keep the blades from cutting you timing should be close card is cool not to lean .
new temp gauges and it boiled over after i shut it down or running slow . the fan pulls good the insert is about 3 '' from the rad and it'll pull a paper to the insert and wont let it go o 13x17 is the core size on the rad with the tanks its like 18 x 17 i belive 2 core with half inch fins the one preblem i see is the guy that put the filler neck at the same hight as the top hose better pics of the grill size <center> <br><br> <br><br> </center>
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