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buick ignition

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Smith79, May 9, 2007.

  1. Smith79
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Smith79
    Member

    is there a thread on here or could some show me a wire diagram for converting a 50s buick from gas pedal start to push ****on.

    if it makes a difference, it has been converted from a generator to an alternator already.
     
  2. Aaron65
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 390

    Aaron65
    Member
    from Michigan

    I don't have a diagram, but all you need to do is pull the two wires from the carburetor switch and connect them to a push ****on...really all you'll need is a ****on and some wire. The carb switch just connects those two wires like a push ****on would...good luck!
     
  3. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    I disregarded all of the ignition wires in mine and wired up a new ignition switch from napa and everything works fine. Disconnect the 2 wires from the carb, they hook to the starter. I ran all new wires from the starter to the swich and the switch to a balast to the coil.
     
  4. Smith79
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Smith79
    Member


    what balast did you use? so you used a replacement ignition switch rather than the stock one and a ****on for the starting function, am i understanding that right?

    thanks for the help
     
  5. asher
    Joined: Oct 13, 2003
    Posts: 258

    asher
    Member

    Basically run a new wire from the starter to your new ignition then to the coil. You only need to hook the ignition coil wire to a ballast if your coil requires a ballast.
     
  6. Smith79
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Smith79
    Member

    ok so here is what i got now
    battery --> to starter
    s terminal --> to push ****on (****on to key on to battery)
    r terminal --> to + coil (key to + coil)

    now for the trouble, when i got it would crank real slow, so i got a new battery, and then got the starter rebuilt, they sugested running the wire from the starter to the coil (was not there before rebuild), so it still cranks slow and it also blew the coil fuse, any ideas?
     
  7. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    Why don't you like the original set up?
    Clark
     
  8. 1955special
    Joined: Apr 26, 2007
    Posts: 8

    1955special
    Member

    I would think it would be easiest to just take the wires that go to the carb switch and hook them to a push ****on. seems like less work for the same result.
    late
    chad
     
  9. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    Yeah I agree with 55 special. I've had the original carb off mine for a while now and have just been touching the two wires together. It works just fine and turns over just as fast. If it turns over slow it shouldn't have any thing to do with the switch. It doesn't supply the main current for the starter.

    To cure the slow start problem
    I'd check the positive cable and look to make sure it is good.

    Check the neg and make sure it has a good ground and is in good condition.

    Make sure you have good grounds from the body to ch***is and engine to ch***is.

    After those are checked I'd be su****ious about the solenoid.

    Here's a diagram online.
    http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Buick/MWireBuic65_3WD-006.jpg

    If your car has backup lights there will be a neutral safety switch/ backup light switch that the ignition wire comes from.

    you will go from there to your push ****on (yellow wire). then the other side of the push****on to solenoid terminal 3 (S) (pink wire).
     
  10. Smith79
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Smith79
    Member

    i like the original set up, but it came this way, and i don't have the original set up.

    i guess i should have been more clear, original wiring harness no longer exist, i did not cut it out or wire in the new one, so pulling wires out of the carb does not work.

    thanks for the info everybody, i will keep you updated
     
  11. UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Joined: Jun 22, 2004
    Posts: 4,827

    UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Member

    Just turn the key dude, I think thats how it was wired up if I remember correctly. There is nothing going to that switch.
     
  12. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    so now it has a key switch and you want a starter ****on added?

    Is it a generic parts store key switch?

    If it is unhook the "starter" or "SOL" or just "s" wire from the back of the switch. on my Pep Boys one it is the center pole. Run a second wire from the "ignition" pole on the switch to one side of your starter ****on. Take the other side of your starter ****on and hook it back to the starter wire that you took off earlier.

    that should be it. It will still be keyed, you have to put it in the run position, then hit the ****on to get it to start.

    If it is the original key switch it won't have a "starter" wire coming to it. You will need to attach another wire to the "ign" post on that switch to your ****on. You can use either post on the top if you are looking at the switch.The original wire went to the pole on the right. They may have split it up into 2 circuits to prevent too much current on one, so it may be best to hook it back to that side. The bottom one is the supply. The other side of your ****on goes to the "S" terminal on the starter relay.
     
  13. Smith79
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Smith79
    Member


    nope it is wired to the ****on, key only has three position (off,on,acc)

    i think it is the original switch, not generic parts store, but the terminals on the back of the switch are kinda loose.

     
  14. UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Joined: Jun 22, 2004
    Posts: 4,827

    UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Member

    Oh word...I think I remember now. Is there a starter ****on on the left side of the column? Im 99% positive I didnt wire teh switch under the floor, but could be wrong. I wired that car and had it running, so I must have gotten power out somehow....

    I seem to remember some chrome switch or something on the left side. Either way its going to be powered off the on position of the switch.
     
  15. UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Joined: Jun 22, 2004
    Posts: 4,827

    UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Member

    Oh and yeah I think thats the original. It came w/ no keys, I had a local locksmith make some for it, I was going to finish that car in paint etc, but got sidetracked w/ mad other projects so some stuff might be loose etc.
     
  16. Smith79
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 171

    Smith79
    Member

    yeah i just need to go tinker with it, it's just making me mad because it should work and it is not.
     
  17. UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Joined: Jun 22, 2004
    Posts: 4,827

    UnIOnViLLEHauNT
    Member

    Well...get a test light and figure it out man.
     

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