I'm sure I read it somewhere, but I can't find it now!!!! How do I take apart the '46-'48 drum and hub ***emblies to put new drums on? Do I press out the studs first from outside to inside (of drum) and then press out the hub from inside to outside????
Some of the wheel studs have a bit of a flare where they come through the drum. Are your hubs on the inside or the outside? Most guys recommend grinding off the back end of the stud and driving them out the back to keep the splines in the hub undamaged. It costs you a new set of wheel studs, but did you really want to hold your wheels on with 60 year old fasteners? Mac's has the studs if you cannot find them locally. Flatman
The lug nut studs are swedged in and almost impossible to press or pound out. What I did was buy a hole saw that would fit over the stud and cut through the swedged part and stopping when I touched the hub. Now ya' can separate the hub and drum and or replace any lug nut studs that are bad. I don't worry about re-swedging the system back together. The brake drum pilots on the hub and is self centering. The clamping force of the lug nuts when ya' put the rim on holds everything in place. The small amont of play with the oversized holes in the brake drum (if ya' use it over) is insignificant to cause any problems. It'll be just like the drum front brakes of '58 and later Chevys. That's when they stopped riveting the hub and brake drum together. All flanged axle rear ends use the same system.
My hubs are on the outside of the drums..... I had seen instructions somewhere where they said I could save the old studs.....but it may be easier/cheaper just to junk them anyhow!
<<<<Most guys recommend grinding off the back end of the stud and driving them out the back to keep the splines in the hub undamaged.>>>>> If I am driving them out from the outside to inside, what is the point of grinding the head of the stud off?
If I am driving them out from the outside to the inside, what is the point of grinding the back end of the stud?
If they are supported from behind with a large deep well socket just large enough to clear the head of the stud to localize the pressure, a standard shop press will straighten the swedging and push it on through. Without the local support you run the risk of bending the hub flange before the swedging lets go. Same thing if you are smacking the **** out of it on the garage floor. The people that grind the heads off and drive them out the front are worried about scarring the splines in the hub for the stud. It's not like you have to do it every other year and you will wear out the splines. New splines will be made when the new stud is pressed in place anyway. JMO In the old days tool dealers and brake supply houses sold re-stud tool kits that did not require the use of a press. Consisting of what looked like a hollow end mill that was slipped over the stud and turned with an electric hand drill. Included in the kit was a tool for swedging the new stud. To replace the drum instead of just one broken stud, we'd mill through the swedging and the drum itself to reach the hub. When you got to #5 stud the drum would fall off. A little more drilling a lot less pounding. Then a BFH will knock it right through like a modern stud without fear of bending anything. Yes new studs were a part of the process to replace the drum.
For outside hub plates on 48 type, I use two hammers to drive the studs through from the outside. Hold ball end of a BALLPEEN HAMMER on the stud and pound it with a second hammer. It might take many blows but this works for me. This doesn't ruin the studs to re-use.
Then I wasted time with my post. Hell, your '48 style style is a no-brainer . I ***umed when ya' said '46 it was the earlier style.
>>>>>Sorry...I really don't know exactly which axles I have (barn find!) but the drums I ordered from Mac's were listed as '46 to '48. Thanks all!
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