Hey Gang, I have'nt been on here in awhile, been having bunch of problems at the house, won't get into them. I'm trying to get this truck fixed so I can sell my newer truck(DD) so I can keep this one. Yesterday I replaced the flywheel flexplate on the '72 350sbc in my '62 C10. The flexplate I pulled out was bent all to hell(literally), once replaced, all was going good... I tested the starter a good 8 starts, so I fired up the engine, and took a drive. Got back home turned off truck, went to fire it back up a few minutes later, I got a short crank, then silence. I turn off the ignition to off, the lights stayed on the dash, I then kill power to teh system(back up power shut off ****on) still the guages stayed lit. I get out with the fire extinguisher, and ratchet with 1/2 socket to undo battery terminal. I pull the negative, and something still is making a crackling sound with the smell of burnt plastic. I check the wires, all are good, but there is a blackish blue substance pouring out of the starter motor casing. After engine had cooled down, my Dad popped his head undernieth, and saw the teeth of the starter is still fully enguaged, but tip of the teeth of the flywheel is touching the tip of the teeth on the starter. The only thing I can think of is that since the teeth of the starter was in the crank position, It caused an overload making the starter melt down. The starter was a brand new remanufactured starter, tomorrow I have to get another one, and stop off at the dealership to get a brace for the front of the starter to block mount, and try again. Has this happen to any of you guys?
Ummmm, no. Then, I don't own a GM car/truck. Mopar starters just "click" when they die. Didn't some of those GM starters need a shim between the starter and the block for extra clearance? Got the flywheel in the right direction, arn't they offset to one side? Gene
Hi Gene, There is a wrong way & right way to install one of these flywheels on GM V8's. There is a lip on one side of the flexplate, this side you want to face the pan. If it faces the automatic trans, the starter won't enguage, just spins. I learned this the hard way 2 1/2 years ago when I first installed the engine. lol I won't do that twice. I used x4 .10" starter shims between starter & engine block to get the correct alignment. I'm using ARP starter bolts instead of the stock ones. The stock starter bolts bent on me at Thanksgiving of last year. I also have to replace to remote Ford solenoid too, I checked it with out starter hooked up, and it's not clicking, guess it fried too. Any other suggestions I should try guys? David
It is possible that the starter itself may have been bad from the beginning. What is pathetically bad about these remanufacturing companies is that they typically only replace what was wrong with the starter when it comes in as a core - they don't actually rebuild anything else in them anymore. The defective parts are fixed, and then the thing is cleaned and sent back out into the world - and often won't last through the warranty. I once put 6 reman starters on a guy's Honda in 9 months when I worked for a Western Auto. He was understanding, and when I finally got to talk to him, I convinced him to purchase a new starter for the addional $50 it cost, and that solved his problem. Then again, just because something is new doesn't mean anything anymore. Quality control flat out ****s.
are u using the third mounting to? sitting from the starter to oilpan and also shims it in and have on some grease on flexplate
Hi Guys, I took the starter back to the parts store where I had purchased it, and they tested it... 30 times to try to get it hot. After a half hour of arguing he gave me another starter(long story). The current starter's cone was machined down, so there is no lip around the edge of the 2 bolt holes. When mounted up it won't let the teeth enguage. I ended up using 1 washer on the inner side, and 2 washers on the out side. I tried for a good hour using the starter shims, but they couldn't get the teeth to mesh right, only making the teeth tips touch only. When I did this I had the solenoid taken off so I manually enguage the gears. I checked with the guage that came with the shims, perfect!! I put the solenoid back on, then greased the flywheel, and tried with power. It works flawlessly. Now I just have wait till tuesday for the starter brace to come in at the dealership, so I can keep the starter from wondering again. The starter brace only cost me $4.95 out the door. Once on, i'll be bombing in my '62 can't wait. David <!--POLLS--><!--FILES-->
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