Thanks in advance for help! I'm building a `53 Chevy 2-dr. Sedan in my garage. I have no air compressor, just so you know. 1. The body supports on the left side especially are all rotted out. A lot of the metal is just plain gone. Will I need to life the body off the frame in order to repair these? If so, what's the best way to do that? 2. Is there a good brush-on or rattle-can product for use as an undercoating? 3. How does one go about removing the upper inner control arm pins without the tool # J-whatever mentioned in the service manual? or is this something I should just clean up, re-lube and reuse? 4. I am keeping the original full=pressure 235 inline 6. How can I identify the proper transmission (4-speed manual) and rear end I should use? I understand most `60's-era 4-speeds and a gen-2 camaro rearend are good choices (so I've been told) but how can I tell what I'm looking at is what I want? (e.g., casting numbers, distinguishing bolt patters, etc.) Thanks again for all the help! <!--POLLS--><!--FILES--><!--SIGNATURE--> - Tom
FYI, it's always a good idea to start off with an intro. After that, there are plenty of people that will be willing to help out.
OK... I live in Bellingham Washington. As I said, I'm building a `53 Chev. I don't have much money, so I'm keeping it mostly stock. I'm cleaning up the underside of the car well enough to paint, and rebuilding the steering, suspension and brakes, as well as having the motor (a 235 6-cyl.) rebuilt. I'm going to replace the Powerglide/torque tube/straight axle drivetrain with a 4-speed manual and a better rear end. I'm an ASE certified tech, but I've never taken on a project of this size. This is my first resto.
The saginaw 4 speed is a common swap. The S-10 T-5 also works well. Both of them will bolt to the truck bellhousing. As for differentials, the late 70's Camaro/ Nova 10-bolt, and the G-body 10-bolt are pretty close to the stock width. If your're planning on doing much highway driving, I'd take a look at the T-5. The overdrive is nice, and they're pretty easy to come by.
Are those just applicable for trucks? I may have forgotten to mention this is a 2-dr. Sedan p***enger car.
If I remember right, the p***. car bellhousing has a different trans. mounting pattern than the truck does (car is smaller). The truck bellhousing is the same as the later Muncie/ Saginaw/ Borg mounting pattern.
.if all this stock stuff is what you wnat then fine. i doubt you are going to save any money though. it would not cost much more to build a hot rod sbc, must II. car.
get the body up in the air, carefully, and repair it correctly. its better to be patient than to do it twice. a few friends and a tall ceiling would sure help. use the search, the t5 or 4 speed swap for older 235s has detailed instructions in several threads. bookmark 50chevy.com, inliners.org, and use google. type "jalopyjournal.com" and what you want, it'll pop up. if you have any specific questions that you can't dig up the answer to, just ask one of the "veteran" chevy guys, as we all have done similar work and learned the hard lessons.
I don't know if the bolt pattern was different on the car bellhousings, but I know camaros had the trans tilted to one side and that's why people use the truck bellhousing. I'd think twice about undercoating a car where you live. If it is not completely clean and the undercoating does not adhere completely it is just a trap for rust and salt and water. Once it gets a little bit under the surface it will just rot out from the inside.
Hmm.... good point, old_dirt. For all the stuff for a stock rebuild it's about $1665.00. For an M2 complete setup (from TCI) it's about $1850. I think I saw a post with info on how to clip this car here a while ago, but for the life of me, I can't find it again. Is this something that a beginner like me could handle, or should I stay away?
Is there something wrong with your upper control arm pins? Why do you want to remove them? This is the same front suspension that Chevrolet used under the Corvette until 1962. Sisnce you're sticking with the 235, I don't see any point in going through all the B.S. of putting a M2 front end under it. Rebuild any parts in your stock front suspension, add disc brakes, and drive the hell out of it. Just my $.02
Basically, I want the car as solid as possible. When I move back close to home, I won't have a garage, so I want the car tip-top before I go. Money is the major factor for me. I can save as necessary, but as they say, time is money. As I mentioned in my intro, I've never done anything like this, so I don't really know which direction to go, or what my next steps should be. It can be a little overwhelming at times.
Talk to Buffalo ent. Do a search on here or go to inliners.org to find his phone number. He is very knowledgable on ****** swaps on 49-54 Chevy's. The upper pin comes out easy. Do you have a 49-54 shop manuel? If not get one ASAP there is everything you need to know in there. Todd
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