350 weak start when hot/warm

Alright, I can't figure this thing out... I have a 350 that does not want to start after I run it. When I start it in the morning it starts fine. As soon as I drive it, even down the street and back, I turn it off and it does not want to start again or it is a real "weak" start. The battery is fine, conections seem good. The only thing that I can think of is the starter. I thought I was going to be a a real smart guy and a few months ago I bought this life-time starter from Kragen. Could that be the problem? The other thing is that I don't have a heat sheild on the starter, but I didn't have this problem a month ago. Anyway... let me know if you have any ideas.

My 350 Facts:
- 8k miles on rebuld
- tuned/timmed correctly
- driven 3 to 4 times a week
- RV cam

David

 

The starter would be my guess since you have it all timed up right. That would be the only other thing in my mind that would be an issue. I don't think a heat shield would make too much of a difference, I never ran one on my 350'd c10 and daily drove it for 3 years on the same starter w/o any issues.

 

Check your choke, it may not be disengaging.

 

When I restart the car, the motor turns really slow almost like dead battery.

 

Check your coil,
You may have a dead spot in your starter

Sounds like the battery.
Have you checked your battery with a hydrometer or is it maintence free?
11.5 - 11.7 volts is low for a battery but need to have at least 11.0-11.3 volts min. going from the switch to the solenoid to kick it over .

since you said it's lifetime starter take it off , and take it back a tell them that you had your vehiole at a shop and check it and it failed the bench test and would like a new another starter. Then you will know if that was your problem!

 

typical chevy problem, you can either go with a smaller magnetic starter from a '96 (i believe) or newer 5.7 truck but you will need the bolts to go with it. or you can install a ford solenoid.

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

and also check you ground wire to the block first (also a good idea to have one from the block to the frame minimum 4g).

 

I had one years ago that did the same thing. Chased that problem for a whole summer. Turned out to be a bad positive cable. Check all connections & cables thoroughly, feed & ground. Make sure it has a good ground, if the ground cable is bolted to a painted block it may not be grounding at all. If all looks ok remove the starter, heat it up (200 deg in the oven) & bench test. If it is the starter it should show up.
Why was the starter orignally replaced? Were you having a problem? Sometimes new parts are defective.

 

double check your timing while you are at it.....

 

I had the same problem on my T and found out that the ground wire was cut almost in half inside the plastic covering. I had a guy check it with an Ampmeter when I would crank it and he found it right away. It only did it when it was hot also. Gary M.

 

Went through this with my 383 sbc/ Stude Lark. Went to a Tilton starter and Ford remote selonid away from the exhaust and am now a happy starter.

 

its your timing.its too far advanced

 

sounds like a timming issue to me...retard it a little.

 

what is your timing set at? i use a starter for a big block chevy truck.supposed to be high torque? the above post states check your ground , be sure to check engine block to body ground. this is the cheapest way to start and not cost you a lot of $$$$$$$ i sorta think ground problems

 

like others said. timeing too advanced, too much cylinder pressure

 

My first thoughts are the timing, but if it is timed right, my next question would be to ask how close the exhaust is to the starter? Often a sheild isn't required, but if you are running headers at all, they typically get closer to the starter and cause it to heat up more. The excess heat will cause it to drag, often causing this particular problem.

Its hard to say what exactly is causing this problem. I think most of the guys above have hit the necessary points of the potential problem areas, so run with it and see what happens.

Oh, and many of these lifetime warrantied starters are pretty much **** nowadays. Most of these rebuild companies will take the cores they get back on their starters and replace ONLY what was wrong with them, and pretty much ignore the rest of the components. It will often be these other issues that cause them to go bad again. Meanwhile, you are the only one who is really out of luck with your time and problems.

 

most of the cars that have this problem i'v found to be bad ground,my 2c

 

Found the problem... I tested the battery under load and not too good. I replaced the battery and it seems to be ok now. There is still a little lag after it get warm, but it starts. I think I am going to take a closer look at the ground and the exaust heat next to the starter.

This reminds me to post another question about '65 Impala rear tail lights.... (ground problem?).

 

my 57 did that,heat wrapped my starter never happened again.set my timing at 8 degrees as well you can buy a mini starter for sbc from speedway reasonable.

 

I'd put a heat shield over the starter

 

The Ford solenoid is a good idea, nonetheless, for chevy's starter...also nice because you can mount it wherever you want, and pull power from the batt. side of it, for everything else, instead of a bunch of "hot" wires coming off the starter, down near the frame.