Technical CARBURETOR, Stromberg Emulsion Tube Removal

So...start by going down to your Ford agency and demanding a 67-9590 rebuild kit. Don't take any crap from the moron at the counter--if there's trouble, take hastages and keep repeating your demand.

 

If I wrap my tool with masking tape, won't it hurt when I take it off?

 

Next, the left picture: Over on the left are two tapered screw tools as sold by Stromberg and Snap On for yanking the tubes--you could improvise these with sheet metal screws or something, but don't--bad basic design. Not only do they grip with only one thread seriously engaged, if you have to drive them in farther to get a grip you are also expanding the already stuck tube.
Next to those is the simple screw/wingnut gadget described above and a #6 tap in a handle.
Weird angled thingy next is a KRWilson sight glass for measuring fuel level. It screws into a jet plug hole. Right below that is a Speedway brake banjo fitting and bolt, available with Stromberg threads...3/8 fine, I'm at work and don't remember thread number. That plus the crush washers matching will be the basis of replicating the KRW, which is a bit difficult to locate...
Over a bit farther are two of the jet plug remover bits described above, obviously easy to replicate from a junk socket and a bit of metal.
Jet wrenches shown are the best on the planet...Plomb T wrench, Snap On--Stromberg socket style. The two shown are different sizes, one for 97 and EE types, the other for AA's and other big Strombergs. All the way over are two hollow screwdrivers suitable for power valve--note that sleeving or wrapping either of these would produce self centering tools as I describe above.
The thin strip of metal right of center is also of interest--the forked end is of no use here, it adjusts power valve on AA Strombergs, but the bent and slotted end is a neat factory bending tool for 97 float adjustment. Anyone who owns a hacksaw blade should be able to duplicate that in thirty seconds.
Especially handy for final adjustment of running level with full carb on engine...
Also in there are Snap On gauges for preliminary level adjustment. The red device is a heavy duty carburetor jack, in case you need help lifting the thing.

 

Aluminum gadget in right picture is an Eelco jet board with Proto jet wrench, a really lucky find.

 

Another thing about the jet plug removal tool: If properly made to fit the groove and properly curved to fit bottom radius of groove, it will fit perfectly over a range of angles AND hold the plug well enough that you can lift it into and out of location with the wrench. This thing on a 1/4"ratchet reaches the plugs on the engine easily and handles them without any fumbling.

 

Humph.....
And to think I took mine apart without ANY of those fancy tools.......

Although I do have a jet wrench on order to get those out.....

HaHaHa....yeah, probably my FAV of Walken's skits!

 

For several years when I was a teenager, I worked on the '48 Ford with only the car's original tool kit, a simple 10 piece or so socket set, and a Whale tool, ancient relative of the vise grip. I actually did not own a hammer or any normal pliers...primitive kit did not stop me from doing much of anything, but I must say I lost a lot less blood after I got more tools...and I don't think I could ever have improvised a way to get out stuck Stromberg jets. Fortunately, I had a 94, which requred only the car's own screwdriver and a paperclip for complete disassembly.

 

"If I wrap my tool with masking tape, won't it hurt when I take it off?"

Yes, but at least you won't have the horror of waking up the next morning and discovering you've caught a bad case of the zinc oxide from her...

 

I have LOTS of crusty ones, so I think soaking the WHOLE carb is a good idea. Actually, take it as far apart as you easily can, then soak all the chunks for as long as you can take it. Just beware that some cleaners will digest the pot metal bodies. Check them every day or so to be sure your cleaner isn't too agressive.

I don't think that mineral spirits will have any affect on the corrosion that is common with the pot metal. That stuff may need to be vinegared or acid washed somehow.

If you end up blasting the carbs, be very careful around the internal threads, as some of them are fragile and some are irreplaceable. Nobody makes a nutsert with the correct orifices for those jet holes.

 

A good cheap soak for loosening stuck bits is a can of diesel fuel or furnace oil, if carb isn't going to be worked on immediately. Just let it marinate til you have time...
White crud corrosion usually comes off with some vinegar, and vinegar (cheap white gallon jug generic) also gives a nice surface cleaning when applied vigorously with a toothbrush. Everything you eat will taste like sauerkraut, though, til it wears off your brush.
I do not soak for any great length of time in vinegar--I think these carbs are so soft they might just disappear if left in there.

 

what is it really for?

also, are the reamers used for sizing the throttle shaft bushings? they seem to have an awful steep taper on them.......

 

Hello All....Again, excellent TECH.. One suggestion, when using PB Blaster or whatever, leave the two jet plugs and check valve plug in..The penetrating oil will not leak out..Spray on the idle jets, power valve, and down the emulsion tubes..I fill the emulsion tubes up with the oil..weeps through the holes and pentrates to the outside of the tubes.. Be patient and let set for several days..Remember, penetrating oil needs to wick down the threads..
Duane..

 

do they just push in lightly?? how do you get them back in? press in?

 

Hello..Here are some tools that are necessary..
Pipe cleaners.(Good for emulsion tubes)
PB Blaster..(Let them soak,be patient)..
Helicoil set..(Replace the stripped body threads)
Notched Screwdriver..(Removing the Power valves)
Jet Remover..(Welded a socket on the Jet Wrench)
Brushes..Different Sizes..(Cleaning, emulsion tube passage, Power Valve hole, accelerator pump cylinder, idle jet passages)
Tapes..(Cleaning threads)
Stromberg Stand..(Repair stand, swivels)
97s..(Notice the plug caps still on, SOAKING)
I didn't put sizes, will if asked..
HOPE THIS HELPS..
Duane

 

OOPS..Forgot the Cutting Torch tip cleaner..Great Tool..
Duane..

 

Thank you for taking the time to post this tech article. I know what kind of time and patience it takes to load up all the pics and make it look right. Thanks!

 

Them's ain't reamers--they are original type tapered screw tube yankers, which I don't use for reasons above--they are the original tool for this job, supplied by Stromberg, though. The jack is actually a tiny machinist's jack, I think really for leveling heavyish objects under a cutting tool...

I believe Strombergs should not be reamed oversize to replace worn shafts with bigger ones...I recently found a flow test on Q-Jet primary mods (bigger bores and smaller shafts than a 97 already), and the effect of a few thousandths of extra shaft on airflow is startlingly large...slabbing the original size shafts would likely be a good idea, actually. And, there's no need to change size, since there's a bushing on each size and I assume they are now easy to get from the new 97 people.

 

Great tech Youngin!
thanks so much for taking the time to put this together.
So many of us have special ways of doing these kind of jobs but very few put it together in a tech. i salute you

 

You're special alright!

 

what did you make that repair stand out of...or is it an old tool for this....i like that


and, i never noticed until i was working on one last night, bruce is right....those bowl plugs have a curve in them....they aren't just flatheads like they look at a quick glance...

 

Hello..The tool is about 60 years old, made for rebuilding 3 bolt carbs..or maybe others?????.
Bruce, you are totally correct about the throttle shafts..I will never understand how brass can wear cast iron??. Replace the shafts with the original size and get new bushings..Actually the throttle shaft rides on the cast iron of the body..Look at the shafts, and you can see the wear from the cast not the bushings..Especially the center shaft support..What a waste of money to buy new oversize shafts and the reamer???????..
Again, I don't think brass can wear cast iron..
Good job Youngin, on getting the tech started and good follow through by Bruce..
I hope you both didn't mind me chimming in..
INFO..I had a friend do a CSI on the gasket material from England and the ones sold by Vintage Speed and Sacramento Vintage Ford..Quality of the material is equal for sealing the air horn to the body, the body to the base and the base to the intake.
Same thickness also..
Vintage Speed has the best sealing plug gaskets.(neoprene, sp) only on the smooth surface face..some will only take the cloth type, they fit in the ridge of the face..Where the plug gasket seals against the body..
Duane...

 

Congratulations