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Paint help needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Toqwik, Jun 7, 2007.

  1. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    Ok I painted my car outside, so naturally I got some trash in the paint, and some of it is rather large. I painted it with single stage. What grit should I start sanding with, and how long should I wait untill I start sanding and buffing. Also there are a few runs, should I try to sand them out, or should I just live with them. There is a good bit of paint on the car, so I should be ok to sand.
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,927

    squirrel
    Member

    maybe let us know what kind of paint you used (acrylic enamel, urethane, with hardener or without, brand, etc)
     
  3. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    Sorry, acrylic enamel with hardener, don't remember the brand, but not a common brand.
     
  4. publicenemy1925
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,187

    publicenemy1925
    Member
    from OKC, OK

    Not a common brand?
    Doesn't sound promising.
     
  5. shoprat
    Joined: Dec 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,109

    shoprat
    Member Emeritus
    from Orange, CA

    I just had mine shot with PPG DAR 9000 single stage acrylic enamel
    w/hardner of course. We used to color sand and buff right away,
    now I'm told to wait a month so it won't need to be done
    again later. Two first cl*** painters have told me this.
    later, Ron
     
  6. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    It's not a popular brand like ppg, or dupont. Maybe Omni?
     
  7. publicenemy1925
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,187

    publicenemy1925
    Member
    from OKC, OK

    Omni stay soft awhile. Probably best to wait about three days on buffing it. I colorsand with 800, then 1500, then 3000. We use a DA for this, with a foam pad. On the runs I take them out with a razor blade dragged backwards over just the run. Not for the faint of heart. If done when it's soft it will pull the paint from the body.
     
  8. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    So I should not try to sand out the runs? Don't have the bells to try a razor blade.
     
  9. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    Also, is it ok to sand on it now, painted it Wednesday
     
  10. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    I think your advisor is right, you'll find that dragging a razor works, if you have good light, to produce a flat painted surface. You might experiment in an area that doesn't show, to determine when the paint is hard enough to shave and sand. (Try dragging it "backwards", I suspect that is the prefered method.)
     
  11. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    So when you say dragging, do you mean pulling the blade towards me to shave the run out?
     
  12. 34toddster
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 1,482

    34toddster
    Member
    from Missouri

    I try to go with the direction of the run, and it's the best way to get rid of it, you might have to do a little and let the run dry a couple more days and then do a little more. Flatten it out completely before you wet sand with a soft block, follow Public Enemy advise I think he's laid down a few curtains in his life like most of us. Good Luck remember the best time to screw it up is now when you still have a good window to blend in the screw-up, go man you can do it!
     
  13. redhumphries
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 423

    redhumphries
    Member

    I hope it is a solid color not metallic if it is metallic you will cut all the metallic particles off and they will look like silver specks in your paint and the color will get lighter. If it is solid you will be ok sanding and buffing after a few days in summer heat. Don't sand it outside in the sun it will water spot and you will never get it buffed out. Don't start with too co**** a paper 1000 is about as co**** as I will use on a real bad job. Talk to your local paint rep that sold you the paint and see what he says. Good luck that is alot of work but done right it is worth it. RED
     
  14. plw
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 165

    plw
    Member

    Maybe you could go to a body shop and ask someone to demonstrate the razor pull, if you try to sand the runs, you'll take off the surrounding paint long before the run. Or you may be able to pick up a run file at your local paint supplier. You can also try going to www.paintucation.com there might be a demo on run removal on that web site. Good luck.
     
  15. metalman427
    Joined: Mar 12, 2007
    Posts: 1

    metalman427
    Member

    On the runs, go to a body shop supply, and ask for a clear file. It's about 1" square and looks like a body file. It's mounted on a small piece of wood for grip. Works great on clear runs, never have tried on a color though. Use a little water with a few drops of dish wash soap mixed in for lubrication.
     
  16. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    The paint does have metallic in it, and it is Sherwinn Williams brand. The metallic is not that noticeable, except in direct sunlight. I would rather loose the run though and risk a non metallic area.
     
  17. arkiehotrods
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 6,802

    arkiehotrods
    Member

    sjdiscounttools.com has a run razor shaving tool for removing runs for $5.56. Do an internet search for "run shaving tool" and you'll find several sources besides sj.
     
  18. mcload
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 539

    mcload
    Member

    I didn't know Sherwin Williams made automotive paint...learn something new everyday I guess.
     
  19. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    That run razor looks pretty neat. Also can be used for dust in the paint. Think I might or 2!
     
  20. Hip2bsquare
    Joined: Dec 1, 2002
    Posts: 239

    Hip2bsquare
    Member
    from Gilbert,AZ

    I would sand it all down with 600-800 grit wet, wash it down, re-mask and have another go at it! Using what you have learned and apply them the second time!
    I dont think you can have your cake and eat it too! I mean... spraying outside with cheap products, runs in it, and then want a good looking finished product... not gonna happen!!

    Metallic=Trouble
     
  21. Mudslinger
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,966

    Mudslinger
    Member

    If your doing the work outside be carefull if its in direct sunlight it might still be soft.
    It sounds like your okay that is not 100% perfect try the razor but make sure you know how to use it. You can ruin the whole area with one slip.
    If its a lone piece of dust here or there try 800 grit or 1000 grit paper wet it and knock the high spot off and buff it and see what you can do.
    Maybe find a place not right on the roof down on the bottom somewhere and try that first.
    My F1 is going to be a driver and its getting painted a little at a time outside because I cant get it to my friends shop right now.
    It doesnt run and I have a baby that kills my time working on it during regular hours.
    Unless its just covered in trash you can make a shade tree job look pretty good.
    I have painted black base coat clear coat small jobs outside and some have come out like diamonds and others were ****.
    Good luck man!
     
  22. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,311

    Toqwik
    Member

    The front clip was the worst. Had to sand on it cause the cover on the wheel blew up and trashed the job on the fender. The trash sands out pretty easy. I am goinf to repaint the front clip, but the runs are in the rear quarter. I will take my time with the razor, learn as I go. Yeah Sherwin williams was the cheapest brand, but I have 2 1/4 gal on the car now, and just couldn't swing the cost of other brands....
     
  23. publicenemy1925
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,187

    publicenemy1925
    Member
    from OKC, OK

    When I mentioned "dragging" I mean the blade part faces away from the run as you pull it across the run. You watch the sides not to dig into the paint on either side of the run. Think of it as dragging a straight razor over your skin. If it's turned toward you it will cut the **** outta you. If it's turned away you don't get hurt but you get a shave. After the run is gone a little 1000 or 1200 on a block to take out the razor marks and buff. Works very well. If it's to wet it WILL pull the paint up so try it some place safe first. Hope this helps. ****, If I had a camera it would make a *****in tech post. Good luck.
     
  24. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    You don't need a camera, here ya go:

    /___.___

    The slash is the blade, the period is the run and the line is the car. Pull the blade left to right in this case.

    I can draw a *****in stick figure too.
     
  25. MarkX
    Joined: Apr 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,232

    MarkX
    Member
    from ...TX

    Sherwin Williams has made auto paint for a very long time ... ive used it and I will say i like it better that the big two....................

    Drag the blade down the run..... or you can wrap a small piece of 1000 grit wet around a piece of a flat stir stick and wet sand it out slowly
     
  26. MarkX
    Joined: Apr 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,232

    MarkX
    Member
    from ...TX

    ..................... wait a few days first
     

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