What type of paint do you use for blocks and heads? Do you use a primer to smooth out the casting? Iv'e got a SBC and a flathead to paint. I would like to paint the flathead block red and smooth out the stock heads and paint them shinny black. Will standard poly paint and primer hold up?
I use the same primer and paint I use on the body. Either single stage polyurethane like Imron or base/clear. It holds up just fine and looks great. Chris
I use the same system I use on bodies, hasn't given me any issues yet. Ask Chopolds what he used, he did one of his in a true candy red.
I also used the same base coat, clear coat that I used on the body, I was told the catalyzed paint was good to over 400 degrees. After 5 years it still looks good, hasn't peeled or flaked and still shines. I also used the same primer that I used on the body. Red
I recently used engine paint primer for the first time on my 421 Pontiac, and for the first time, no burning of the paint above the exhaust ports. Discoloring, but no flaking off. I think it's made by Dupli Color. But it seemed to be an improvement over not using it at all
i used rattle can red on my flathead which alone sucks but used a catylized clearcoat over that and it held up great.
I always paint mine with rattle cans, if they ever have a problem it;s easy to mask and repair with a little sanding and another coat. i also do the intake with rattle can engine clear to provide low maintenance.
I used a single stage automotive paint on my engine and heads. I decided to ground the block smooth (that was DRD57 fault.. he did it and it looked so nice I wanted the same look). then used a etching primer, sanded it lightly and another coat (was told not to use to many coats) and then shot it with regular single stage
the key i believe is clean the block as best you can degrease it, and i always shoot a good sealer onfirst then use concept it sticks to any thing and holds up great a little more money but worth it .
I posted this info on another mesage board. Prep is anything that will clean off the gunk...spray degreasers, power wash, mineral spirits, or thinners and a parts cleaner brush, whatever. Rust needs to be eliminated completely, with chemicals, or glass beading. Be sure to remove all traces of the cleaning beads before continuing, they WILL ruin an engine if they get inside! Even a hot-tanked engine needs to be cleaned thoroughly before paintwork, as the caustics can hide inside the cast iron pores, only to surface after painting the engine! Painting engine parts is not very different from doing regular painting, but there are some special 'precautions' and materials you need to know about. First of all, the actual cast iron parts do not need primer. But they come out better if you do prime them The sheetmetal pieces, as well as aluminum/diecast need it. I prefer epoxy, but have used etch, and even POR-15 (good if you have a clean, but slightly rusty assembled engine, that you cannot blast) as primers successfully. ABOVE ALL, do not use any lacquer based products! Either primers, or paints. They do not hold up well in the heat. Be sure your parts are perfectly clean, no oil, grease, or moisture, or rust. I prefer to primer, and paint the same day, saves sanding the primer the next day. Sanding will inevitably bring up bare spots, needing re-priming, and leaves behind a lot of 'fuzz' when cleaning the sanding residue. Unless you are using the primer to fill imperfections, as in a smoothed out, show car job. Then, epoxy is your best bet, after smoothing out the castings with sanders, and cartridge rolls. Paint can be anything from spray can engine paint, to Centari w/hardener, single stage Urethane, base/clear urethane, or Polyurethane (Imron). These all produce very nice finishes, tho cans are the hardest to control, and are probably the lesser quality . You can buy a cheap-o touch-up gun to do the job, you don't need a good gun. For most engines, I paint the block and heads bolted together, but everything else separate (oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold, etc.) This gives a nice detailed look, especially if you use new, plated bolts and washers to assemble it. Stainless hardware is a nice custom touch, and can be polished to look like chrome, without the chipping, and rusting that wrenching them causes. If doing a strict restoration, tho, you can't do this! Many engines were painted assembled, even with exhaust manifolds in place. So too much detail is not wanted there. As for smoothing the block, and heads, I've got about 40 hours into doing my straight six. I started with a 4 1/2 grinder, with a stone, doing all the real rough stuff, seams, big bumps, lettering. Then went to a flap disc on the 4 1/2. Then used a right angle die grinder with a 2 or 3" pad, with various grit sanding discs. Late in the game, I found small flap discs for the 2" pad, and they worked great! Followed that with doing the details, corners, edges, with cartridge rolls on the die grinder. You'lll need different diameters, and grits. I finished all this up with about a 120 grit surface. Epoxy (HOK) primer, 3 coats, then waited a couple days, guide coated it, and sanded with 180 or 220 grit. I cheated is some spots and used polyester glaze to fill minor imperfections. The another 2 coats of epoxy, as there were a lot of bare spots showing. Another guide coat, 400 sanding, and ready for paint. Man was that a LOT of work!
Tolds ya... Mark I was hoping you would post that. Its time to do the motor for my 51. I kinda ballparked most of what you did on the 6 based on your style, HOK epoxies and whatnot. The rest you filled in. Post pics.... that thing is awesome and worth the extra effort.
i used some hi temp gloss black epoxy engine paint in a spray bomb on my pontiac. it's been on there for about 4 years, and has held up great...no discoloration, or paint burned off by the exhaust manifolds (which is common on pontiac motors). this paint actually got glossier with engine heat. i can not remember the name of it..but i think i got it at napa. on the exhaust manifolds, i used flat black bbq grill paint. it's held up great, and it was cheap.
I'll be painting my mill soon. I always use Plasticote. I've wasted a lot of time and $ in the past with all kinds of "prep-crap" purchases. My last mill was painted with rattle- can Plasticote Ford Red. I wire-brushed the engine after smoothing the block's casting burrs, & shot 4 light coats of the paint after a thorough drying process on each coat of paint. I always take my time with this procedure. No reason to get in a hurry. I ran that engine over 2 thousand miles with only one minor "touch-up' on one of the heads. Try it. It's easy.
It's not done. Starter will probably be disassembled to chrome it. Still have to take the car apart one more time, do more detail work, bodywork, and prep for paint. Also going to fab up nice fuel lines, put in A/C, and power steering.
I always use Epoxy primer followed by basecoat & clear. The epoxy is the key to a long lasting job. Steve.
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