There is a particular Ford roadster that we decided to run a race flatty with a T-5. It has one of Tardells K-members (very similar to stock) we installed in it. We mocked up the engine ****** combo into the frame last night and realized the new K member is going to have to be butchered big time to fit it in. We have considered moving the K-member back about 2 inches to allow only the tail portion to fit through it. This would alow me to only have to cut the hole larger. Otherwise it would set farther into the body of the ****** and would have to be cut in half and rebuilt. Does anyone have any pictures with this combination completed?? Also.. It looks like the floor will have to be humped to compensate for the top of the ****** and we are looking into changing the tailshafts by installing a S-10 tailshaft which has the shift mount farther forward. Any tips or suggestions?
The S-10 T-5 is the one you want, You could z the center of the x - member back and keep the pedal mounts in the stock location,
I like the Mustang T5 better. It has bearings rather than bushings, right? That is why I think mating the S10 tail shaft to the Mustang T5 would be ideal. Either way, things are tight!
The S-10 T-5 has a much larger body. I like the idea of Z-ing it and keeping the member mounted on the frame sides. I imagine moving the K member back would result in some more creative work to get the pedals in the correct position. thanks Any more ideas? see drawing
I have Tardel Model A K-member I already mildly cut to try and use with a T-5, but still I had to scoot it so far back I decided not to use it because the pedals would be wayyy too close to the seat. If anyone wants it for $100- it could still be used as intended with an early for trans with a little reconstructive surgery.Thanks Jim
Whatchu talkin bout, Willis? The cases are virtually the same - differences lie only at the front of the case where it mounts to the bellhousing - the Chevy pattern of the pre-93 S10 is wider here, but it's all back to normal by an inch or two back... Can't help with the '32 K-member issue.
Looks like a lot of work just to use a k-member really. And any sort of keeping it traditional argument seems to be out the window since you're fitting a T5. So why not mock up the proper location and build to suit with tubing? Or maybe coming up with an old T frame to slice up and build your own center crossemember from Ford steel would be a decent compromise? That could actually look pretty cool too.
Well,....... The T-5 is the only thing that will be changed. We had a good 32 K member but didnt want to cut it for the pedals and now the T 5. So we opted for the Tardell member. Yep, it wont be changed much at all. At least the Y-block is back on the shelf. I think the Z-ing of the k member (as in the pic) is the best option as ''what fenders" suggested. I'd like to at least try to keep something that looks like it belongs in there for that support.
Are you set on an open drive? I've moved on from "mental ************" to hard-parts measuring yesterday on my Jeep T5 to early Ford torque tube conversion. Looks like thing will work out well. Here's what I came up with: Early Ford 3-speed from front of bellhousing mounting flange to rear face of ****** side of rear bearing retainer/U-joint cover - 13-1/8" Jeep T-5 from front of bellhousing mounting flange to rear of transfer case mounting surface - 15-1/8" T-5 to Flathead flat-plate adapter to hogshead = 7/8" Early Ford rear bearing retainer/U-joint bell - 1-7/8" For me, in my '40 coupe, this means the Jeep T-5 is 4-3/8" longer + whatever flat-plate adapter I machine to go from transfer case mount to the early Ford rear bearing retainer/U-joint. The '33/34 torque tube is about 6" shorter than the '40 torque tube, so I'm going to make the flat plate adapter the correct thickness to make the shorter torque tube work. The Jeep T-5 mounting pads are in about the same place as the '40 trans mount saddle on the frame. Bottom line, you could probably do something similar, keep the closed driveline (you'd likely have to shorten your TT/driveshaft) and the only major expense will be the spline coupler between the T-5 & early Ford U-joint. For my setup, I've got an S10 case, AstroVan ge****t (3.50 1st gear), & the Jeep output shaft/tailshaft housing. The Jeep T5 has no provision for speedo, so I'll use the stock TT mounted one. The Jeep T5 shifter is in the same place as the S10. Just another option to consider... ...but converting to open drive & using an S10 (or Camaro/Mustang w/S10 tailshaft/topcover) would likely be simpler (and cheaper)...
Here is my T-5 through a fabricated k-member. Unsplit bones front and rear. It's tight, but it all works. Here is the trans tunnel that I made... Neal
Very nice Neal! I'm collecting parts for this same application, just got my T5. Going over ideas in my head now about the crossmember. Anyone use a F1 crossmember or have a pic of this app.? Heard a few people have explored this option, have'nt seen it yet though.
Nicely done, Neal! I've not done it, but if I were starting from scratch, I'd probably look into the F1 crossmember option - very simple looking & straight-forward I think...
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