Clear over the old? Tips?

Got a 78 merc (yeah yeah.. not pre 64) that I'm cleaning up for a car to roll around from time to time until I get a proper project sorted. Just wondering about clearing over the original single stage enamel. Its pretty solid and not worn or faded through in any spots but I'd like to keep it that way. Any tips/tricks to clearing over the original stuff?

Should I compound it out (then strip it) and clear it? Or just clear over it as it sits? I'm not looking for anything super shiny.. just don't want it to fade out any worse.

 

Pub gets out popcorn.

 

Buff or compound any faded spots, the use a commercial wax/silicon remover and generously wash the paint. God knows what has been applied to it over the years.

Pass that popcorn, Pub

Flatman

 

Hahaha... I knew I shouldn't have posted what it was that I was messin' with. Come on now.. give a kid a break!

Jeez you'd think I asked about puttin steelies, www's and a flat black paint job on my S10 . I know its not a rod and I'm not pretending it is. Just asking a little input from a good knowledge base. Can't we all just love cars?!! haha.

 

if you need some tech info on post 64' vehicles do a search using "YUGO" as a keyword.

 

Hmm, wanting to preserve old paint? How is this not on topic?

 

The proper prep work to do a clear coat over the existing paint is exactly the same as a new colour coat. Old paint, even if it looks terrific, is still going to have surface oxidation, surface abrasions, and stone chips, and as stated above will require compounding. It will almost most certainly require colour sanding, spot priming and colour coat blending. If it's a metallic and not a solid colour (not likely with a single stage paint, but possible), even if you were to get away with just compounding (very much not likely, but possible), you'll find it very hard to keep it from looking mottled and blotchy. The amount of time and effort involved (yours or hired labor) to do proper prep is the same as a total repaint, so it's not really cost effective to clear coat an old top coat. If it looks decent now, I (and this is just the opinion of someone started doing this about 30 years ago) would have it professionally buffed, waxed, and fully detailed by a detail shop in your area with a good rep with the local car lots, then just keep a good paste wax on it until you decide to bite the bullet and have it painted.

 

twofosho:

Thanks for the input... this is kinda what I was thinking needed to happen but I thought I'd ask. I'll probably just cut/buff it and if I screw it up I guess I'll just repaint it . I figure this ones a good one to learn on before I try to eff up something on a good project. Kinda like I wouldn't start building a T and be one of those guys who's just tacking shit together only to find out that my hairpins are gonna snap on the first pot hole. Gotta learn on something

 

Hey,

Since you're not after "diamond gloss results" I'd wash the thing
with a scuff pad and powered laundry detergent. Next, I'd sand
the finish using 220 grit paper. Dust, mask, and shoot with a
synthetic enamel clear. The "cheap" clear should last for as long
as the base colour coat would be expected to live.

Swankey Devils C.C.

 

Damn 220 seems pretty rough!?? I've seen guys using scotch brite and detergent to wash before they cut/buffed an old lacquer job they were tryin to bring back but 220 seems rough!? I'd be worried about takin it to metal on edges. Maybe 600?

 

If going to all the effort to shoot a good clear job over enamel, why not just shoot it in color? Same masking. Same prep work, better results.

 

220 isn't too rough for this project. You'd be surprised what a good clearcoat can fill. You need a good base for the clear to bond to.

 

I definitely agree here though.

 

I agree, your going to be doing all the work anyway so I'd just shoot color on it... Also here is a site that seems to be very helpful and informative to those new to autobody/paint. www.autobodystore.com