Has anyone changed over the pressure brake light switch to a manual switch that works off the pedal itself on a car with the pedals through the floor? I've changed my pressure switch 3 times and it still takes too much pressure for the brake lights to come on. What switch did you use? Thanks!
there's a low pressure switch, maybe try that. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=prf-80174
i have changed over to g.m style brake switch on many rods,make up a bracket off the frame,set the switch so you can adjust for on/off.now the the brake light will go on as soon as you touch the pedal! it worked for me
What kind of GM switch did you use? Got an application or part number? The low pressure switch sounds like a good idea, but they don't actually give any pressure rating, which makes me think it's probably the same damn switch in a different box with a higher price than the others I've used.
http://www.ebrandsmall.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DSD445144&click=8 do a google search ,many similar switches,
stud .... use a low pressure switch ... and use IT to trigger a RELAY that will carry the current to the bulbs ... it will last FOREVER if you do it this way ... hydraulic switches wear out with great regularity by themselves .... EASIEST fix for the problem ..... .... jersey Skip
Use a 49 to 54 chev, its a long lever type, and has a nice mounting area for two screws on it. all you got to do is make a bracket to mount it, or sometimes it will bolt on the firewall/toeboard area.
I agree that a relay will fix this problem permanently. Easy as punch to wire: Using a standard Bosch relay (available at a junkyard near you, look for anything that wasn't assembled here in the USA or Japan): Power from Bat to terminal #30 and jumper to #85 Lead to brake lights to terminal #87 One side of pressure switch to #86, the other grounded firmly to chassis ground. That's IT!!! Now the switch will work FOREVER. The relay reduces the current through the switch so much that it no longer arcs, which eliminates the carbon produced by arcing, making the switch last forever. Oh, yeah, grab a lot of the Bosch jobbies - they're free, and you'll find a LOT of uses for them (headlights are another, good, application). Try to get the junction blocks too (if separate), makes a neater wiring job. Cosmo
They used the lever type on '55-'60 Chevy pickups too. Probably on a lot more through floor cars too. It goes under the toe board and the flat part of the brake pedal arm moves the spring loaded lever to "off", simple. I got several from NAPA at about $3 each. I just left the NFG pressure swtch in the "T" to keep the fluid in the brake line
i use the button type that is used on 70s g.m with out cruise.cost about 10.00 @most auto pts .i just put one on my 34 olds.
Low pressure hydraulic switch from Harley-Davidson works well - they're all the same across entire model line/year range - run it with a relay. Done.
I used a brake switch off a motorcycle (the kind that has the spring and just pulls to activate the switch) it's only about the size of a ball point pin.
Thanks guys for the tips. A trip to napa and I got a 50-53 chevy switch with the lever for $13, and it's already in the car and done. Worked out nice, screwed right to the toeboard.
Yep, that's what it looks like. I bent the arm over so that the pedal pushes it easier in my application.
Can these mech. switches be mounted under the floor, in the elements, as opposed to inside the vehicle?
Mine is on the bottom of the toe-board, has a ton of miles on it............no problems. I use it to close a relay in order to keep the current draw as low as I can... the switch should last a lifetime.