40 ford brake help

i know i know this subject is pretty much killed but i need a little help... i struggled with this a bunch back when i first setup the car andjust when i finally got it right i took it back apart again.. can someone refresh my memory... i know you start out with indents facing each other. That's about all i can remember.

Let's start with just the left hand pivots, what is the procedure (in clockwise and counter clockwise terms)?..

Please let me know..


PS. I already looked at this article but, as i did in the past but it is not completely clear.. If you do it the wrong way it seems liek you are gettign somewhere however you are just getting farther out of adjustment..
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/brakeadj.html

 

PS.. assume that we are looking at this facing the backing plate (from the axle side)

 

For factory style adjustment, have 25-35 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal during entire heel adjustment procedure.
Start with marks facing each other which has the eccentric at its highest point. Using a wrench with a 3" handle turn the forward mark down(wrench moves clockwise viewed from backing plate side). Turn until shoe just contacts drum. Turn drum and be sure no heavy drag is present. If OK, hold wrench and tighten lock nut. Repeat procedure with rear shoe.
Remove pressure from brake pedal after all shoes have proper heel adjustment made.
Gross shoe adjustment by upper cams is made by turning cam nuts on backing plate down. Again, slightest contact is being made without major drag being present.
Check pedal for full range of pedal without "going to the floor". Check for proper bleeding of system and see if improvment is made.
If brake performance is unsatisfactory, start again at top and be more careful and accurate in maintaining heel adjustment.

 

"For factory style adjustment, have 25-35 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal during entire heel adjustment procedure."

How do you do that?

 

I print this out and take it to the garage when I do my brakes. My memory is as long as my...well it ain't too long anymore.

 

sooo just to confirm.. (again assuming we're starting with the left pivots).
1. first turn the upper pivot counter-clockwise untill the drum begins to drag
2. turn the lower pivot clockwise untill it disengages
3. Repeat 1 and 2 untill the drum no longer disengages.


Let me know if i have this right (i think this is how i did it last time). If so this post will be a good resource for those struggling with these pesky brakes.

ps - i'm using lincolns next time

 

Remember, the lower anchor pin adjustments are only used to center the shoes in the drum. (after new shoes are installed) The upper is the actual brake adjustment to allow for shoe wear. The 46/48 brakes have a self centering cam that centers the shoes then you adjust the upper. Mike

 

I just tried the above procedure (see my diagram) and it seems that the shoes are centered pretty well. I chalked up the shoe and rotated to see what was rubbing off and it seemed pretty even across the shoe..

HOWEVER, step 2 never disengaged the drum as described. I simply moved the outer adjuster untill i got major drag and and then turned the lower untill it bottomed on the drum. I then backed off the upper a tad untill the drum turned with just a little bit of drag.. Is that normal? It could be that my drum is just over-cut a bit and it's hit a sweet spot on the adjustment curve..

 

Did you arc your shoes to match the drum for full shoe contact? An important step with the early brakes.

 

nope... would i just do this on the belt sander?

makes sense..