Rusted metal Paint- Por-15 etc.- need user opinions

Is there any difference between POR-15, KBS, Ch***is Saver etc. Need to paint bottom side of my trailer before it sits on the salt for a week at bonneville. It is bare/rusted metal now. Would like to use a machinery gray. Will need to paint it in steps so I need to open and reseal the can several times. thanks

 

i have used real POR-15, as well as the Eastwood version (Rust Encapsulator.) Both brush on very much the same and seem to dry to a similar surface. Thus, im comfortable with both.

And, yes, i've opened and closed the can in use many times.

-scott noteboom

 

you are supposed to put a piece of plastic wrap between the lid and the can so it doesnt get stuck..

 

used por-15 with much satisfaction.

 

POR-15 is amazing it sticks like crazy and holds up very well I would recomend it to anyone

 

my buddy did the plastic wrap under the lid thing, and every time we needed to get some more there was a hard film on top you had to poke with a screwdriver.

I found that if you just clean the lip real good before you put the cap back it seals really well. I went through one whole can using this method over about a months time with no problem

the second can got about 1/2 way through and sealed itself shut. must not have cleaned it one time. destroyed the lid removing it, so I just got a new empty can from the paint store.

sticks well to rust, but not any kind of grease or oil.

 

my friend Gordon puts it on his cereal in the morning.

 

por 15 contains isocyanates...doesnt really make that clear...that stuff will mess you up...its bad***, but use a correct respirator.

 

I'm using KBS stuff now. Hard as rock and less picky than others.

 

poke holes in the lip of the can so when you put the lid back on the material on the lip will go back in the can and not stick the lid to the can so bad. it will seal and last, and yes use in a ventalated area, this is some bad*** stuff and works good. dries to the touch in an hour or so but takes a few days to cure

 

oh yeah, and wear gloves! that **** takes at least a week to come off if you get it on your skin..

 

dont get it on yer dink either

 

POR-15 WILL harden up in the can after opening. The more humid it is in your area, the faster it happens.
I put it in the fridge to delay the hardnening process after opening, if storing for a short time. I "purge" the air out of the can with my MIG welder if storing it for a longer time.
It even says on the can, to pour out what you need, and immediately seal up the can, less exposure to air, the better!

 

say you have coated the bottm of your car with por-15 and now you want clean it off and do a nice paint job, how hard would that be?

 

i thought you could paint right over it if you wanted too? guys on a lot of the mopar sites dont seem too happy with por15. i have yet to try it. my cheap *** usually just uses rust oleum on ch***is parts. red oxide primer and usually gloss black top coat. i always used acetone to thin it out but a couple weeks ago i decided to try out "oil paint conditioner" at lowes, seems to work nice.

 

I have a buddy with lung problems (serious !) caused by POR-15 .... I'ts been 10 years and he STILL has problems !! so PAY ATTENTION to the warnings on the can ....
the product works GREAT but --BE CAREFUL about correct venting / air supply,etc .....
....... jersey Skip

 

Damn can you give some details of how often he used it and other details.

 

There is another product out there called "Rust Bullet" that dries to a nice gun metal color instead of black like POR and the test results from independent testing show it to be a comparable product. He who is un-nameable (BC) tried this out on one of his "budget" builds and some magazine followed the application process which turned out nice. I wish I could remember which mag it was...

Both POR and the Rust Bullet can be painted over according to the manufacturers statements. I am not affiliated with either product or company, rather just wanted to share about another possibility.

 

Get the POR 6-pack of small cans. Totally eliminates concerns about aged paint and is super convenient for little here, little there use. I don't buy the big cans anymore.

 

"dont get it on yer dink either"

Should not use your dink to stir it !!

 

You know, with all the trouble and exspense (POR ain't cheap) it's gonna take to paint the underside of an already rusted trailer, it would probably be a better idea to just rent a power sprayer and do a really good cleaning job after you get back!! Just a thought!

P

 

I used the metal prep and then after the curing period, I covered that in the POR15 silver. I had to leave the truck outside for two or three days and the POR15 turned a green tint. After i put the truck back in the garage, it sat for a couple of weeks untouched and then I noticed the POR15 is peeling off. I'm sanding what I can back off and trying something else.

 

Something went very, very wrong in the prep process to get those results. Prep goes well beyond just spraying metal-ready

 

I followed the directions on the bottle for the prep process and I brushed it on. I would not recommend spraying any of these products!!!

 

Call POR-15 and tell them what kind of metal prep you used. It might not be compatible

 

I've used several rust-preventive paints before. POR-15 is great for underbody components, as it dries rock-hard and looks great. I usually apply with it a foam brush. However, POR-15 does not like to take topcoats, so I would not use it on exterior sheet metal. I've used Bill Hirsche Miracle Paint on exterior surfaces and then BC/CC over the top of it with good results. With time I did get small bubbles in the surface where I ground out the surface rust, but this was after 8+ years of daily driving in Michigan and Ohio winters on a car that did not get garaged. For my next project I am going to try Rust Bullet on the exterior rust spots and use POR-15 on the ch***is components.

 

Iv'e used por15, and have had good luck with it, I bought a quart about a year ago, and put the plastic under the lid like the sales guy recommended, and had a hard time getting lid off the second time. Now I just store it in a quart mason jar and clean all por15 off threads of jar, put a piece of wax paper under lid and screw it on, this works great for me. They say to store it in the fridge for extended life, but I have had good luck just keepin it my ba*****t. Like someone else said, don't get it on you, because that **** has to wear off, usually about a week later.

 

I have used it on the window openings on my daily driver Jag, where they all rust. Its been on about a year with lacquer over the top, and there is no sign of movement.
As for the dangers, Every person has a different susceptibility to Isocyanates. Some people can spray it all the time with no protection and not have a problem. Some people get ****ed up by it the first time they touch it. Most are in the middle. Don't risk it - use a proper mask. I know a guy who pissed blood for a week after painting a car in his garage ( in 2K ) with no mask.

 

our shop used to use POR but about a year ago it just didnt seem the same as it used to be so we decided to switch to KBS and i think it goes on alot smoother than POR. seems to go alot further as well...

 

A guy in a booth selling POR15 at a swap meet told me the secret to getting paint to stick over POR-15 is to lightly dust some spray can primer over the POR15 when it is still tacky. Not enough to cover it, but just enough to leave a dusty rough surface. Then when you paint over it someday, the rough surface gives the next coat of paint something to hang onto. If you paint POR15 and let it harden, the surface is almost like porcelain and it's hard to get paint to stick to it at all unless you scuff it up with sandpaper. Contact cement doesn't stick to glossy POR15 either. That dusting of primer trick sounds like less work than sanding the POR15 if you think you'll be painting over it someday.

I brushed POR15 onto the inside of big home-made sandblaster over five years ago, and most of the POR15 is still there, except for a patch on the back wall that gets hit by abrasive constantly.