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Painting a hood

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ItalianStallion, Jul 2, 2007.

  1. ItalianStallion
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 45

    ItalianStallion
    Member
    from Jersey

    My car has a flat black (matte, satin, whatever you want to call it. Non-reflective) paint job on her right now.

    What I want to do is remove the hood, and paint an Italian flag on it. I think I can handle this myself, as there is no real artistic requirements for this (three columns of colors). My question is this, what is involved with this? I would also like the green, white, and red to be "flat" (non-reflective) colors in order to have the same luster (or lack thereof) as the rest of the car.

    I have never painted before, but I figured I could tackle the hood. I just don't know the process that is involved or the materials/tools I'll need.
     
  2. flat_mountain
    Joined: Dec 16, 2004
    Posts: 181

    flat_mountain
    Member

    Depends on the quality of the finish you are looking for as to what is involved. Give us some more info on what you want.
     
  3. ItalianStallion
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 45

    ItalianStallion
    Member
    from Jersey

    Relatively low quality. I'm just looking to have the hood with the Italian flag on it, with a flat finish. I would also like it to last for some time. But as far as quality quality, this is not a show car, just merely looking to get the flag on the hood. Nothing special.

    I read an article in Hot Rod (The $98 Paint Job) that talked about using a roller to paint the surface. As crazy as it sounds, they seem to really go for it as a cheap and doable home-job painting method. What do you think? I would rather not have to buy a HVLP spray tool and all the other fancy gadgets.
     
  4. ItalianStallion
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 45

    ItalianStallion
    Member
    from Jersey

    Okay, I think I'm going to shoot for this roller paint job for the hood. Here is what I think it takes:

    THE $98 PAINT JOB
    Supplies/Tools
    o Sandpaper (grit??)
    o Paint thinner / 100% mineral spirits rather than dilution
    o Rollers / high-density foam meant for smooth finishes
    o Rust-Oleum (no need for primer??)
    o Touch-up brush / small foam
    o Towel(s)

    Instructions
    1) Rough up the surface with fine-grade sandpaper (no more then 320-grit?)
    2) Mix the paint. Rust-Oleum is thick, so the need for a thinner is necessary. Go for a consistency of melted ice cream, about 40 to 50 percent thinning
    3) Let sit/dry for 24 hours. After first coat you should see the bare metal or original color
    4) Second coat; wipe down with towel to remove dust and roll on another thin layer blowing out bubbles
    5?) Wet sand with 600-grip paper after 24 hour drying period of second coat
    6) Go for 6 to 8 coats

    Question: How much sanding for a flat/matte finish? Not much I don't think. What do you suggest/advise?
     
  5. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Holy shit 6 to 8 coats at one coat per day? Why don't you just take it to me and I'll spray it for you and make it look nice. Sounds like a waste of time for a not so-so finish.
     
  6. ItalianStallion
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 45

    ItalianStallion
    Member
    from Jersey

    Yeah, it will take a hell of a long time but the beauty of if is it's cheap. How much would I be looking if I was to take it to you? Pretty much like I said above, just the hood, basic Italian flag (nothing fancy), and a flat matte finish. How much would that set me back?
     
  7. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    Here's how I'd work this given the "low-buck" edict-

    Decide how large the design will be and lay it out using a center line
    running down the peek of the hood as the center of your design.
    Lay out the three bars, in thirds, that will fill your design. Paint the
    center bar the first day. The second day, after you're sure that the
    center bar has dryed, back tape the center bar , with low tack tape
    to the edge of the center bar. do this on each side of the center bar.
    Now, tape off the two outer bars using a carpenter's square or any-
    thing with a good ninty degree angle to insure all of the bars are at
    good ninties to one another. Scuff sand all areas prior to the appli-
    cation of any paint, OO steelwool or a scuff bad will work well.
    About the paint: a cheap enamel will answer for this, mix baby
    powder, talc or flour to kill the gloss in the enamel. You'll have to
    test mix, and dry your paint samples to acheave the degree of flat
    that you're after. Remember how much powder you mix it so you
    can repeat the results in all three colours. I'd use the foam rollers
    on this and maybe, only twentyfive percent reduction of the enamel.

    Swankey Devils C.C.
     
  8. 53 special
    Joined: Mar 4, 2007
    Posts: 18

    53 special
    Member

    If you are going for cheap and quick just use rattle cans of rust oleum and use steel wool of fine grit paper to get rid of any gloss. total cost would be like $30
     
  9. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,024

    belair
    Member

    And if you do a Japanese flag, you only need 2 colors and a circle.
     
  10. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Hey man circles are tough. haha. Call me or email me if you'd like to me to quote you. It won't be $98.
     

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