My 61 econoline has runs the stock generator in it. I know that many change over to an alternator. Why change to an alternator? I will not be showing the engine off on this thing...so there will be no esthetic reason to keep the generator. Does and alternator charge faster? better? I am sure its something big otherwise the big three would still be rollin cars with generators.
Alternators charge better at low rpms, and if you've got multiple accessories, are available in much higher ampere outputs than generators.
if you don't need to change, then don't. Some reasons to change it over include lame excuses like running electric fans, big stereos, air bags, HEI or MSD ignition, power windows, and whatnot. And some people like changing them just for the sake of change.
You can push start a generator equipped car when the battery is dead. Due to residual magnetism creates a field which will have the generator charging right away. You can't push start an alternator equipped car when the battery is dead. Due to there is no residual magnetism and no battery voltage available to excite the alternator so it will charge. Some things are not always a step forward....
Depending on your idle RPM, a generator will not put out a charge at low RPM, so if you sit in traffic a lot (like I do), you may have problems. I switched my '61 Falcon over to alternator and may use that old generator, once it's rebuilt, on my '32 flathead-powered project.
GM went to alternaters in 1963 so it's period perfect for a lot of cars. I put a 63 unit on my coupe in 1966 (41 years ago).
Well I got an electric fan cause this turd runs hot in the summer...no probs in the winter though. Also, I have a decent sytem in it (all hidden, the truck still shows the am radio) That might be a little too much for the generator. Just wondered about the advantages of one VS the other. Thanks to all!
The easy answer is low RPM charging. If you start and stop the car alot, the alternator is a plus. Also, alternators tend to be smaller. Much smaller if you choose. So clearance may be another benefit. Your observation that cars no longer have generators should answer your question as to which to choose. Unless you are building a strictly pre-'63 ride.
?? I've push-started many stick shift alternator equipped vehicles! Are you talking about being able to push-start an automatic transmission equipped vehicle witha generator??
I think he's talking about when the battery is completely stone dead....usually they don't die all the way, just enough so that you can't crank it fast enough to start.
I'd convert it... Single Wire converted Delcotron, 60amp Ford External Reg, or a NipponDenso. The last engine swap I did, we dropped a 318 into a 1950 Chrysler and used a Mini-Denso that put out nearly three times the amps of the old Gen and was a simple three wire hookup...
Could you explain to me how you push start an automatic with no rear pump? There were a few early automatics that could be push started but I don't know of any that were built in the last 40 years that could be push started.
No. Stick shift. As Squirrel says, way dead battery as vs a low battery on alternator equipped cars you've had success in push starting. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Quote from Kirk - "Technically you can push start an automatic. You have to get it up to like 30mph though." I wasn't aware you could do this . . . and not arguing the point. I thought that when the rear pumps were removed from automatics as a cost-cutting measure by Detroit that was it for push starts. I wonder how many Detroit CEO's & VP's bought stock in the jumper cable companies?
you can't push start a non-rear-pump automatic....the clutches need pressure to engage, and without a rear pump they can't get any pressure unless the engine is turning.
Good question 36-3. I dont have a volt meter for it nor have I ever had any issues with it until recently. Tuesday I walked out and tried to crank it over and nothing. Stone dead. I checked the battery, it was very low but okay. I checked for a current drain and that seems to be negative. So perhaps I left one of the fans on...one for the engine and one for me... So how does a fella change this over to an alternator? Ropeseals dropped me a hint but Im alittle slow...K alot slow.
It'll charge at an idle. You might think you don't spend much time idling, and the battery will see plenty of charge when you're driving. Well, my last generator equipped car, driving at night (lights on),every time i'd hit the brakes (brake lights on and engine idling) the CD player would POP, and quit playing for a minute. I'm sure this ain't good for the circuits
NOT TRUE! Unless the auto has a REAR pump like a cast iron Powerglide. MOST automatics DON'T have a rear pump. Without a rear pump, you'll push that car til it (OR YOU) turns to dust before it'll push start
How will the driveshaft's rotations reach the motor? It will need a rear pump (driveshaft driven) to build pressure to apply the necessary circuits. And yes, you'll have to push it pretty fast. I don't know for sure if it's 30MPH, but it's a LOT faster than your stick shift "bump" for sure
probably best put a 3 wire GM internally regulated alternator on it if the van has an idiot light, or a one wire if it doesn't. Or use a ford alternator if you want some grief!
Unless you need the extra output, just rebuild the generator and run with it. I'm completely biased here, but I'm sick to death of seeing ugly ass chrome/billet GM/FORD/SUPERPOWERMAGNALUX 200 amp alternators hanging off of every motor just because someone didn't want to "deal with the generator" or "wanted more power than the wimpy generator could put out" or my favorite -- "generators always go bad". Most of the owners can't even justify why they need it. Big stereo? Lots of lights? Lots of fans? Grow lights for onboard hordiculture center? nope nope nope nope. Don't do it. Every motor has a look and soul that is distinctive and gives it that special character. Chucking an alternator on there just because is as tasteless as a 90's pastel paint job.
I think we spend less than $10 rebuilding the last one we did... but anyways, he said no one will see the motor, which is easy to belive since it's a pain to get to it on the van. Otherwise I agree 100%, generators sure look nice on an old motor
erock805 What engine do you have? The 170/200 Six? Here's a link to Falconparts.com They have the conversion brackets for the 1960-1964 Sixes $29.95 http://www.falconparts.com/1960-1964+FORD+FALCON+ALTERNATOR+BRACKETS+FOR+6+CYL+ENGINES.html I'd stick with the 60 amp Ford Alt. and it is reliable as any, and they've also been used on Cessna Aircraft for years, so that should mean something... I have a copy of the wiring for the Ford Alt & Reg if you need. Dave
I have the 170. Its is sooo damn slow...Probibly needs a good tunning by someone other than me.....I'm aching for some power! Anyway, I ran a test that I heard about , which is to run the truck with the headlights on and remove the field wire from the regulator and tap it to positive terminal and watch for increased headlight intensity...none that I could see. I am pretty sure I will convert ... I need a matching regulator too? Thanks to all for the help!
if you use the old Ford alternator ropeseals mentioned, then you need a regulator. if you use a "late model" internal regulator type alternator then you don't.
$180 to rebuild a generator? Nooooo. We charge $80 starting on most units. That covers initial diagnostics, bearings, brushes, teardown, cleaning, reassembly, paint, full bench test and a 1 year parts and labor warranty. Typically with a new regulator you're out the door for slightly more than $100.
Well, what you did there wasn't a test, it was polarizing the generator. It was likely polarized already, which is why you didn't see any change.
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