Register now to get rid of these ads!

Motor Mounts and set up in an A...Help??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Duke, Jul 13, 2007.

  1. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 927

    Duke
    Member

    Need some help...
    I am mounting A 327 chev in my model a coupe and need a little experienced advice. I am using a hurst style mount, 4 inch drop axle and a 3 inch kick in the back with a reversed eye A spring mounted behind the axle. Right now my frame is sitting in my shop with the front end tacked end and no rear. I am going to put the front motor mounts in (I am going to build a mount off the bell housing as well, to support the turbo 350) and need to know what angle I should put the motor in at? Intake level with the frame? Or should I try to determine the rake the car will sit at and then make the intake level? If I am determing the rake...what should I use as and appropriate suspension travel on an A coupe, full fendered, with a trunk?

    Thanks
     
  2. BriggsBodied28
    Joined: May 13, 2006
    Posts: 88

    BriggsBodied28
    Member

    Duke,
    I just went through this last winter setting up my "A" with an SBC as well. It IS definitely hard to figure out where to start. I started by figuring out ride height & rake and locking in the frame with jack-screws (cheap ones like for a camper will do fine). Next I set the cowl on to get an idea of fore/aft placement at the firewall. Then I used my trusty trans-jack with a dummy SBC block and trans + shifter on it and moved it around until everything fit. I didn't worry about "leveling" at the intake...no need for that. More important is what's happening with firewall clearance and ****** & shifter placement. I ended up with about 2 1/2 degrees tilt downward at the back. ** Remember, you are also locking in your working angle of your driveshaft u-joints at this point! **

    Lot's to contemplate? You bet! Measure a thousand times and finish weld once. If you're not too good with your math/geometry & angles, buy some beer for someone who is. I'm sure somebody will post something that it's not a big deal - to that I say, you do it your way and I'll do it right. :)
     
  3. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 927

    Duke
    Member

    Thanks Briggs, what do you have for suspension travel between you rear and frame?

    Thanks
     
  4. Duke---It will work fine if you set it up so that the carb base is parallel to the frame. The reality is, that with running "big and littles" the frame will actually tilt down towards the front at about 3 degrees, but as far as the carb base goes, that doesn't really matter. Think about it---if a tilt of 3 degrees affected your carburetor enough to cause a problem, cars would never be able to drive up or down a hill!!! The reason for setting the carb base parallel to the frame is that the engines are built with a 3 degree tilt in the intake manifold in relation to the centerline of the crankshaft, so that when the carb base is setting parallel to the frame, the ****** slopes down 3 degrees towards the rear of the car to minimize the floor hump required for the transmission.
     
  5. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 927

    Duke
    Member

    Thanks Brian, that makes it way easier.
     
  6. Gunny
    Joined: Feb 28, 2006
    Posts: 191

    Gunny
    Member

    diddo rake first if you can swing it, then this will help some for the rest...
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.