help on model a subrails

i need to put sub rails in my 30 coupe, its also going on a 32 frame,should i buy kit from brookville or make my own,whats the easest way to install,set body on rails etc.

 

Easiest would be to buy repro Brookville subrails, assemble on a nice square stock A frame, then modify to fit the 32 frame. Unless you're a master-fabricator, if so then start from scratch. But if that's the case you probably wouldn't have asked.

 

I would use the repro subrails to assemble the body, plus they are part of the "rocker panel" you see when you open the door.

Then make some rails that follows the frame for the rear, since the A-rails does not really fit the '32 frame well.

This may be helpful:
http://www.classicroad.com/modelA/body.htm

Good luck.

 

thanks ,this is the first 30 style car for me, so i will be asking lots of ?

 

A deuce frame actually fits under a '30 really well. The front doesn't need to be pinched, and the rear can fit at stock width if you make it.
However, reproduction rails usually need alot of straightening before they fit like they are supposed to. So unlesss you have or feel like building a jig, buy 'em done man.

 

If you want to buy a 32 frame made for a Model A Coupe/Roadster, take a look at the one Gary Dagel builds.

Model A's sat on a flat frame, 32 frames/rails have a cure to fit the 32 body.

Gary's frames are flat so you don't need any shims under the body.

Then you could buy the Brookville subrails, and attach them to the already built perimeter 32 frame.


www.dagelsstreetrods.com

IMHO

 

I just finished making new subrails from the B-pillar back on a customers 31. I would have rather bought them from Sacremento or Brookville but hey, what are ya gonna do.

 

I used a set of regular model A subrails and relief cut them in the same way that rolf did with the square tube. After you do that you need to lengthen them about two inches to compensate for the rear arch. Mine are almost done, just have to do a little more fitting in the body. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you should be left with an 1/8 in max gap on the "flat" area of the deuce rails. This is pretty common with A's on deuce rails, but will be hidden by the amount that the bottom of the boy comes down past the subrail. Tardel said to use spruce shims in his book for this gap, but I am just going use a thicker frame webbing. What kind of rear crossmember are you running?

 

i got a complete assembeld subframe for a channeled roadster i wanted to unchannel from brookville it fit like a glove and the doors fit perfect. you could probally order one already modded to fit the duece frame....

 

I'm not intending to steal this thread, but I've just aquired a rusted out A also.Are Brookville and Sacramento the only places to buy new subrails? Thanks.

 

Thats some real nice work.

 

Coopsdaddy
I to am getting ready to rebuild my subrails on a 29 A. I am going back with a reproduction A frame instead of 32 rails so I am going to buy full length subrails to build the body back on. My body panels are all leaned up against the wall waiting on media blasting just as soon as I get the rust holes all patched.
I don't know where in oklahoma you live but I live in Edmond and wouldn't mind seeing someones subrails go back together. This is my first project so I am teaching myself how to weld sheetmetal together, my first patches turned out okay could have been better.
If you don't mind, and don't live to far away let me know when you get your subrails in if you order them I would like to look at new ones to see how close they are to the originals.
P.M. me if you don't mind me coming to look.
Thanks.