Oxy/Acetylene applications(are there any left?)

With the advent of MIG and TIG welding, what's there left to do with a torch besides cutting? I know it's fun and looks cool, but is it still useful on a daily basis?

Just thinking "out loud".

Thanks,
ns

 

I use my torch for hot bending, a little hammer-forging sometimes and I still braze things occasionally. I have a plasma cutter but it still won't replace a good cutting torch for really big stuff. I use mine almost daily or at least several times a week, and when I use it.....it's because nothing else will do the job.

 

MIG and TIG have been around for quite awhile. We have lots of both at the shop I work at, But there's not a day goes by where we don't light up the oxy acetylene torch for something. Here are some things we use it for.

-Heating something up to get it apart
-Heating something up to bend it
-Soldering and brazing
-Preheating a part before welding
-Post heating a part after welding
-Cutting (our plasma will cut up to 2.5" so everything thicker has to be cut with a torch )
-Some heat treating
-Welding
-Leading
-Lighting stogies

I don't think they'll be obselete any time soon.

 

I weld with mine.

EVIL

 

Gas welds on body work are supposed to be easier to work than mig or tig welds.

 

has any body used the cobra torch ?

 

You for got portable

 

Just bought one out of the classifieds. It's on it's way. I'll let you know.

 

Henrobs are great.....

 

I still use mine to soder rads and braze up holes in headers and heat stubern bolts cut stuff pre heat thick metal for welding. heat shrinking body work. can't live with out a set of torches.

 

Dillon/Henrob/Cobra/DHC2000..........whatever they're calling it today, is an awesome torch! I ain't real good at cutting with it, but I use the hell out of it for welding!

Tim D.

 

I've had one for about 20 years. Got it from Snap-On when they were first imported into the States under the Henrob name. If you're thinking of buying one I'd suggest you try and see a demo of it in person. Demos are usually put on at the larger car shows and swap meets. Do a www. google search for " cobra torch" and you'll find a load of web sites with sales demo videos as well as testimonials. They are a bit on the pricey side, but I'd never purchase any other torch, as they are well constructed, and are a pleasure IMHO to use. In the 20 years I've owned mine, I've never had any problems.
CHEERS !!!!! Dick Zimmerman, Louisburg, KS.

 

Where is the best place to get one?

I do more and more with my O/A set, eventhough I have a Mig & a Tig. ( Hammerwelding, sand bending exhaust tubing, etc...)

I'd like to get a Henrob to gasweld Aluminum Body Panels.( They come with special Regulators, right?)
Also, does anybody know what welding lenses I should get for Gaswelding Aluminum?

 

I have seen the demos on the Cobra/Henrob and they are impressive. Do they actually weld normal steel as well as the normal o/a? They say they can weld cast iron too. They sure do a fine job on thin aluminum sheet.

 

Better, IMHO.

Welding cast iron requires a special flux and rod.....and can be done with any torch. Same goes for aluminum.

I haven't seen a Henrob do anything a Victor/Harris/Smith torch can't do.....it just seems to do it better The lower gas pressure is only part of it.....if I grab the Victor to weld, pressures are set at around 4 psi on oxy and acetylene, it's just the way I was taught to do it. The tip design on the Henrob gives you a smaller flame kernel to work with, makes it easier to control.

Where to get one? www.cutlikeplasma.com ! Jim Spradley is a hell of a great guy, excellent service and phenomenal support after the sale!

Tim D.

 

yep

 

IMHO if you are building or restoring a "period" car you should probably learn to braze and gas weld so it looks "right".
That said don't look too close at the structural welds on my car, they are MIG.

 

Oh, I've done my share of welding, brazing, and a bit of lead soldering with the mighty torch and I know that for cutting thick plate only a cutting torch will do. As far as my ride goes, it's a '52 Chevy coupe and I don't plan on any welds showing by the time I'm done...

Can somebody explain the benefits of TIG welding structural stuff? I know some guys swear by it...I've done some TIG, but only on sheet metal.

Thanks again,
ns

 

You can use a TIG machine to braze now a days.
I know a guy that has a pace maker in his chest and the frequency of the machines make him tweek, so he uses gas to weld on his cars. Its the only way he is willing to weld know. I dont know if wirefeed really messes with him, but when I seen his car project he was working on all his welds looked like gas.

 

Jim, at www.cut-like-plasma.com has a lense, but I haven't tried it yet.

Kent White, has one that works well, but is a little more expensive. http://tinmantech.chainreactionweb....s_id=34&cart=48770f344d7b6e9777b9007c556391fd

 

What I learned from my pops and working with Metalshapes is that the gas weld is a softer weld so it easier to hammer and dolly than a mig weld. I am in the process of learning the planishing hammer with going over gas welds and you can really see the metal move where you want it even over the gas weld part. Just my two small cents if it helps any.

 

Concur.

He offered to help me when mine got stolen. Said he had a demo unit and would fix me up fast. Luckily I found mine at a pawn shop and was able to recover it (name ground into it).

 

TM2000 from tinman. You can use it for all welding/brazing, but it is especially protective for aluminum welding. I have the goggle version, as I have to wear glasses to see in close. I tried the glasses, but can't see what I'm doing...Ah old age...

 

All of the above, AND don't forget dropping axles.

 

BTTT...sheetmetal welding...OA versus MIG. Hammer welding. Thoughts?

 

The real reason I'm doing less Mig Welding...

I love it.

Seems much more controlable...
A lot less grinding.

As long as you can reach both sides of the piece you are working on.
If not, I still Mig it...

 

BTW...

That looks like a lot of Flame and Spark on both sides of that Gas Can...

 

No cold starts/joints (huge bonus in anything that holds fluids). More controlled weld puddle to not leave excess, but insure no cutaway.