283 Advice

Ok I don't post here that much because I don't have an older car. I wish I could, but with going to college it's tough to have an older car and a daily driver.

I recently tore down a 283 from an older '68 C10.

Is the motor worth rebuilding for use in a car down the road?

When the time comes where I buy something to mess with I'd like to have something in the 50-62 range, but don't get me wrong I would kill for a 30's ford/chevy.

Anyways I've read about putting 327 cranks in a 283 and that would make it a 307. Is this mod worth it?

I'm probably going to get it bored .030 since there is a lip when you run your fingers in the cylinder wall.

What I would like to know is what would a good cam be for a 283? I want one with a good idle lope and be able to give me decent power.

I'd most likely at first just run a single four barrel carb, but I always like the 3 deuce setups.

Sorry for the long post

 

For a 283, Duntov 30/30 cam. It's a factory cam. Good lopy idle. You don't wanna go too big since the cubes are so small.
Bigger stroke, less rpm but more torque. Shorter stroke, more peak rpm and horsepower. For a driver, I'd just leave the stroke and go with a .30 overbore. Good port on heads with 1.94/1.60 valves.

 

If you already have to bore it 030 over, you could also get a set of KB166030 pistons. They have a popup/dome and bring the cr up.

 

pow06er,

Over 030 is basically what we use to call a cleaning bore and its all you need for a mild engine. We would use a RV cam for a good hot rod sound.

Cruiser

 

I just talked to the machine shop guy next door about this very thing. I have a '65 283 out of a Chevy II SS and a '67 camaro 327 bottom end.. I was trying to figure out a way to use the best of both in one block, but finacially it turned out not to be worth it. The problem with building a 307 with the 327 crank is that you will have to find pistons for a 283 bore and a wrist pin height of the 327. Unless there is some factory piston I am missing, that is a custom and expensive set of pistons. At that price it was cheaper for me to go several different routes. I chose to keep my 283 a 283 and I'll build a 327 later.

 

A cam in the .450-.460 lift and some mild head work, keep it simple. Like Rev head said, build a 327 later. Let 'er rev...........

 

revhead factory pistons would be pistons for a 307. Not a wortwhile endevor but to each his own.

A 283 can be a pretty crisp mill without adding any stroke. You don't jst bore it .030 because there is a ridge you mic it and see what it will clean up at the last one I put together needed .060 to clean up and it was a stock bore motor.

The Dontov 30/30 is a good cam but an L-79 cam will also work real well not lots of lift hydraulic ( set it and forget it) and good ramps (also a Duntov grind).

Either way for a light car a 283 is a fine option.

 

Thanks for all the help

 

Uh, that would be 307 pistons.

 

If I remember right . You bore a 283 out .120 to a 4" bore use a small journel 327 crank to have 301[302] ci engine. High revving little motor.

It's hard to beat a 283 for relibility and duribility.

Good luck with your's
Hooley

 

I have a 68 283 that also came out of a pickup. It's got a late 60's 350 HP 327 factory cam. Its got a good loppy idle and you dont have to work about the periodic valve adjustment like you do with the 3030 duntov mechanical lifter cam. Check with a GM performance parts guy that knows his stuff and he should be able to get one.

 

Good info here...keep it coming

 

I'm running one in a '58 Chevy Apache that came out of my wife's first car ('63 Impala). I ran an Offy with 3 dueces for a couple of years and then changed it over to a 500CFM Edelbrock on a performer manifold. It is bored .040 over, has the Comp Cams 270H cam, original powerpack heads, an old Mallory dual point converted to electronic (Crane XR700) and headers. I installed it in front of a Camaro T5 and 3.73 rear gears and it runs very nicely both in town and on the highway. First thru fourth are very crisp and fun then 5th gives me 2K rpm at 75MPH. The only two things I would do different is step up to the Comp 278H and maybe go 3.90 in the rear end. As it stands right now I get approximately 14-15 mpg in town and 20-21 on the highway running A/C.

 

Yeah obvious now, I don't know I was thinking more of aftermarket performance pistons.. I guess someone might make performance 307 pistons... but why?

I also thought about the 283 crank in the 327, but my 327 block is already .060 and has a significant ridge so it is probably toast.

 

I am with Hooley...a 283 is a damn good motor and often overlooked for its durability and performance. Keep it for now OR later!
Drive 'em!
Ebert

 

What about a good, but cheap setup for heads?

 

go to your local machine shop and get a set of remaned 305 heads. Check mortec and look for the casting number for the heads that have the 52 CC combustion chamber. I paid 300 bucks for a set of ready to go heads.

 

I'm with Lobucrod on the cams. Either the 350 hp or the 327/340 hp and hydraulics. You won't regret this choice. I'd
get some good .194" 4-bbl heads. One step down from true fuelie heads, that had .202 intakes. Other guys here know the modern offerings, they may recommend improved heads.

 

This is what my 283 has.. are these considered Powerpac heads?
3795896....63-65...283......60cc chamber
3795896....62-64...327......60cc chamber

they have the block with triangle casting mark

Also found this link with a some more info on building a 283
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/printthread.php?t=96167

 

If I remember correctly a 327 crank will drop into the 283, main bearings are the same size. But it won't turn as the counterweights hit the lower edge of the block. Maybe you can grind enough out of the block...don't know. A 283 is a great engine to start with........Good Luck

 

I was told that some of the later 283s did have room for the counterweights.. it is a chamfer in the bottom of the cylinder wall that extends down past the cooling jacket area.

 

Here is a little more info to add. I have a 1957 283 block that does not have side motor mounts that I had a shop machine for me. They bored it out to 4.020 which I believe is .145 over and sold me a 327 small journal crank that should fit. With a set of 302 pistons I should be good. However, there is going to be some amazing surgery to get that crank to fit in that block and good luck finding a set of .020 over 302 pistons. You may find .030 over but that means I would have to take another .010 off. I'll also never find 283 pistons that are .145 over. Anyone want a block?

Now I have a 60's 283 .060 over with a set of power pack heads. I'll let you know how well it works hopefully by the end of the year. I also have a set of double humps I want to try on it.

 

It's easier to put a 265/283 crank in a 327.

 

302 is a 283 crank in a 327 block. They are screamers. The 4" bore is big enough to run the 202 valves.

 

My thoughts exactly.

One of the best cars I've ever owned was a bone-stock 65 Impala with a 190 horse 283 2 bbl & a glide. During the 4 years I owned it, I always toyed with the idea of dropping in a warmed up 327 or 350 & th350 or 700r4, but the truth of the matter is that the car was so reliable and got such good mileage (like 20mpg - with a 2 speed!!!), I just ended up leaving it alone and driving the shit out of it. It was my daily driver for 3 1/2 of those 4 years, and it never had one mechanical issue. It ran like a little sewing machine. I miss it.

Would it be my choice engine for a purpose-built drag car or really fast street car, probably not, just because of the cubes (not that a high rpm 283 isn't a screamer). Would it be my choice engine for a nice vintage daily driver that has reasonable power, a nice sound, and is more fuel efficient and reliable than my 98 Toyota 4-runner. Yes it would.

 

I know, but that was for onefish. Sounds like he went the long way around the block.

 

Is it extremely necessary to run 52cc heads could I run a 305 55cc head.

So assuming I run the 283 crank and then with 305 heads, a Duntov 30/30 cam what should I run for pistons? Should I just run the stock 283 pistons?

I know next to nothing about what works with what. I just want it to run good and have a badass idle

 

You can run the 305 heads. They are a better design for small cubic inches anyway, plus you can get em with the hardened seats for unleaded gas.

Just go out on the internet and look for 283 pistons. Most are repopped in hypereutectics. Jegs, Summit people like that sell them. Also check out Johnson's speed warehouse for pistons. They buy a lot of oem stuff.

 

A .125 overbore is cool, but pisons are very pricey. I would just build it as a 283. It will not disappoint you. If Vortec heads would work, that would be a good upgrade-I know nothing about the feasability of that modification. If you want a 307, just go get one from the junk yard. Chevy made a bunch of them. But just run the 283. They have a well-deserved reputation for durability (forgerd cranks), a cool factor that no 305-307 will ever attain, and high performance capability. Just don't put it in a BIG car.

 

If you pulled it out of a '68 anything, it's a 307. '67 was the last year of 283 production, so check the block numbers before proceeding. Despite what some may think, it's my opinion that the "30-30" cam is way too much for any 283, unless you're running a four speed and 4.56 gears. I've witnessed 283s with this cam, and a '61 VW could beat them for the first 200 feet--NO low end at all. The original Duntov camshaft that the hiperf 283/327s used from '57-'63 is much better suited to the engine if you're into solid lifters.