FED!!!! Run filled block or just water????

I have a 327 chevy in a front engine dragster and last weekend the electric water pump quit. So my new plan is to just take the cooling system right out to lighten it up and save me money from not having to buy a new water pump. So the question is should i fiill the block with that cement compound which i have learned is alot of work, or just run straight water in the block. I worked on a nitro car and we ran water in the block and then drained it after each p*** comming back on the return road, however that was nitro, my car runs on gas which i'm told burns hotter. Anybody have an experince with this??

 

How fast are you going ? And how built is the engine ? And can you take it to the track now and run it by yourself or do you have help, so with your current cooling system ,does it allow you to run it by yourself, is it user friendly or not, you could loose that if you fill the block. Block fill is generally used on a really built engine and used to help maintain its structural integrity when used with nitro or alchohol.........I know of alot of rails that they drive and run them through the lanes and also drive them back on the return road and back to the pits, but these are rails that run in the mid to upper nine second range, and have water systems and they run them by themselves.......and block fill is not that cheap..........good luck Littleman

 

It's not a good idea to fill the block after the machining has been done. Should be done the other way around. What kind of w/p? Most can be rebuilt.

 

All the guys I've ever dragged with filled their block with that cemenent type compund. Water can develop steam pockets in the heads and that's no bueno. Also, the more rigid the block, the truer the cylinders, the truer the cylinders, the more consistant the engine, not to mention better heat retention which equates to a better thermal efficiency which provides more horsepower. Once you fill the block though, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have it sent out and honed with a torque plate mounted to make absoloutely sure that the cylinders will remain true.

 

I run mine with just water and it ****s but it is a period correct drag car so I tough it out. I have pondered running a radiator though just to keep up with the Joneses.

 

back in the 50s i ran a fed with no water, on gas . it was always hot. in the 90s i ran a fed that was block filled with water in the heads on alky. at the present i have a fed that is block filled with no water, on alky. the way to do this is crank the eng ,do your burn out ,stage ,run, shut off after the eyes. some one pulls you back.

 

If you are not driving the car everywhere you should have no problems just running water in the motor. Depending on the turn around time between runs you may have to drain it after every run but dumping cold water into a hot motor (especially an iron one) is not a good idea.
If you do decide to run and dump water put a drain **** on the lowest outlet on each side and put a fill cannister up high at the front. We did it that way for years in Oz (way back when) and never had any problems. As noted by others the block fill deal should only be done at the initial engine build, before final machining.

Roo

 

I run water in mine with a small radiator. That way i don't need pulled around the lanes or back to the pits. Save your money and fix it right.

 

All of the above are correct.

On gas with water in the block you will just barely make the run before overheating.

I have no experience with block filler, I consider it unnecessary.

If you switch to alcohol, you will run much cooler, but you introduce another whole set of complications. Expect to spend a couple grand.

I run a rad and w/p. I know guys that don't; they're the ones always complaining that they can't find anyone to go with them to the drags and tow them around all day! Why have to rely on others?

If you plan to do a lot of racing, just the water draining drill will eventually seem like a lot of unnecessary work.

By far the cheapest, easiest, and most reliable solution is to just buy another water pump and use it.

 

I don't run water in my flathead dragster. I filled the the block with "Hard Block" and run the heads dry. No problems to date. I've run it about 3-4 minutes total, on a p***, with no problems on gasoline. I start it ahead of time to get some even heating in the block and to warm up the 30 weight oil and more specifically those old forged pistons. Running it for 1 minute or so at a time. I try to tow it back to the pits, but it can be driven. Cools down nicely in about 30 minutes. Water is messy, and Hard Block will give your block more strength. You need a cool tow vehicle though.

 

Why not filled with anti freeze?? or ****** fluid ( i've heard tell thats what demo derby cars do )

 

The tracks won't let you.

 

Now I HAVE to find out why demo derby guys use ****** fluid in the block...this is truly something I have never heard before.

Please?


Also, anti-freeze banned at the strips; too hard to clean up they say (too slippery (?)).

 

We got a couple FED's, and we run tiny radiators, so they are hidden. Two run on alcohol, and with the cooling system they are pretty good on staying cool (the alcohol helps big time for this). The one on gas needs the radiator and cooling system, or it would get way too hot. If you bracket race, and need to drive through the lanes and back to the trailer after the run, you gotta keep the cooling system.

 

I Know of a Pro Mod nitrous car with water in the block. To decrease the weight from the car, he removed the water pump, radiator, and fan and placed on a dolly. After a run, he connects the separate cooling system in the pits and cools the motor. Seems to work quite well considering the cylinder pressure and resultant heat generated by the 707 Donovan and 3 stages of nitrous.

 

BTTT

I plan on running alcohol and no cooling system. I've been thinking about doing a partial or a full fill on the early hemi block. What would you do?

 

Spooky Kerry, we both searched this same thing today. Or did you talk to Jay......

 

Not today. What are you guys up to now?

 

Kerry, we run a full filled 354 on 85-90%. We don't run filled heads though I wish they were. next set I will fill them. In the old days water in the heads, run a line to the front exhaust pipe with a 10lb check valve. When it makes heat it blows the excess out the pipe. Lippy

 

Thoughts to consider .....
Once you fill the block , thats it no turning back and its no good for anything else ...
If you goin to race , run a small rad and electric water pump it just makes good sense to make yourself able to run different cl***es and even to return to the pits under your own power .... as also metioned by others.
Do you really think what you have planned for a 327 makes it benifical to fill the block , myself I can't think of ever seeing a 327 with a filled block .

 

change to alcohol

 

One thing I can remember about a 327 is, the majority of the blocks won't take anything over a .030 overbore. I can't imagine a reason to fill a 327 either. If you were going fuel racing you would go to an aftermarket or at least a 4 bolt main deal. On gas I'd stick with a radiator and water. Lot more consistent . But injected alky would be even more consistent. JMO.

 

Fix the water pump and be done with it!

 

keep the water pump and rad. ... it's easier and I go to the track without "needing" anyone.

 

My old FED with 327/Powerglide/Pont-Olds rear, was strictly a fill it with water, run it, empty on the return road, let it cool, and then fill it back up. the only bad thing about it, for me, were the guys who would try and burn you down, rather than play fair and stage. The rules are better now, with courtesy staging. I always thought radiators on rails/diggers was a bit on the hokey side. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Good info Lippy.

I brought this back to the top and I really was asking about an early hemi, not a 327. A radiator and pump is not an option for me. I do plan on running alcohol and am very tempted to fill the whole block and run water in the heads.

 

All of above this is correct depending on how you race. However, no need to fill the block unless you need the strength. On the part about running water and letting it blow into the exhaust........no way any track will allow this anymore. Puts water on the track. We did it years ago, but no more. I had it on the Gizzle Hopper at Bowling Green and NHRA neary **** when at about 1/2 track she started blowing a little water out the exhaust. Now we use a small catch can.

 

In the early '70's, we were running Top Fuel with iron '92's. We had one block full of "block rock" that really was more trouble than it was worth.
It ran, no pun, smokin' hot every p***. We ran water in the heads, and the dump tubes going into the headers.
About the time Pat would make the hash marks the headers would be blowing this huge rooster of steam. By the time we got back to our trailer there would be no water anywhere.
This block took longer to cool than any other block we had, and we were convinced it made less horsepower because of the excess heat trapped in the rock.
Our drill was, when we got to the long end, we would throw the 'chute in Pat's lap, and one of us on each side would reach down and open the drains that were out on the bottoms of the headers. Then we would hook up and pull back to the pits, water running out of the drains.
By the time we got back to the trailer, the motor would be dry, but usually still too hot to put water back into. That was the last thing before start up the next p***.
At Dallas International, you always knew the diggers had just made a p*** because it looked like someone had brought a ski boat up the return loop.
If you plan to work alone, IMHO, keep the water pump, and rad. Otherwise you will be holding up the program at the long end when it gets busy. Mike

 

On this subject I have seen pictures of quite a few G***ers from back in the 60's that ran radiators but No water pump. Hilborn or Moon front covers with out a provision for a water pump, but still running a radiator. Any one who understands this care to weigh in on whether or not this form of convection cooling really worked or not?

 

Thermosiphoning. Prob worked to some extent? Same as those flatty heads that used the same principal