I need a bit of advice from a professional who works with fibergl*** on a regular basis...any out there? (NOTE: Questions posted further down, see #13) Thanks in advance. Patrick McLoad
Well... I used to in the surf industry... This is back when the poly resins were nasty. Than I did a lot of work on body work in motorcycle racing a few years back. Not sure if I would call that professional... never made enough money to call it a profession. Not sure if I can help. What is the question?
Yeah, shoot us a question, now that you have our attention...my latest adventure was repairing busted-up carbon fiber sculling boats that are pro raced..a real picky bunch, you have to figger out how to successfully repair the boat,make it stronger, and not add any weight to it..If they get the boat back and it wieghs a couple of ounces,grams more than when you started they are convinced the other guy is going to win because he wieghs less....of course these are guys that diet and shave their legs soooo....
Thanks Public Enemy and RixRex; I've sent an e-mail of my questions. That's a funny post rixrex, I can only imagine what it must be like to work for clients such as those! Patrick
you use some fine chicken wire and put the gl*** around it to make your shape.There, I answered a question that was never asked,hehee.This is like the old Johnny Carson where he'd hold the envelope up to his head and ask the question, while the answer is in the envelope.
My apologies to all of you for the "no-response" thread. I should have mentioned that my questions are lengthy, and would generally make for poor reading on the HAMB ...eyes glazing over, etc. Instead, I emailed the following to the few HAMBers that responded (at the time). So again, sorry about the FNG stunt...I learned my lesson. Here are my questions: First let me apologize for the "Fibergl*** 101" questions. If I'm asking too much, then don't bother spending a lot of time on a response. I finally got my website updated to include many pics of the problem areas in the fibergl***. ***uming you have a fast connection, scroll down to the very bottom of this link, and read "Body Work Begins": http://www.mcload.com/Personal<WBR>%20Site/the_venus_restoration<WBR>.htm I have done gl*** work in the past, but I'm sure there is something I do wrong. Generally, I would first work in small areas as opposed to manhandling a large amount of fabric. I would then cut the fibregl*** to the shape I need. (Thoroughly clean area with Acetone, then..) With the fabric in place, I'd lift an edge and apply resin with a brush, then set the gl*** down on that area. I would then just work my way across until the entire piece is coated underneath and the gl*** is in correct position. I would then brush on a generous portion of resin on the top of the gl*** and work excess resin over with a plastic spreader. After the gl*** fabric is thoroughly wet and any air bubbles removed, any excess resin would be wiped up with acetone, or depending on set-up time, be used for the next section of cloth. I have divided my work into phases (I know, this all sounds too technical): Phase One: With electric palm sander or pneumatic "block" sander, remover all tan-colored filler down to the rock-hard ""white" gel coat (I really don't know if it's actually gel coat they used). Phase Two: Open/expand and deep cracks with a file or rasp. I ***ume that small grinding disks such as used on a Dremel tool contian silicates and should probably not be used. (Hand tools are okay with me.) Thoroughly inspect body for any loose pieces and pry them out. Thoroughly clean the entire area with soap and water, and then after dry, with Acetone. Any small holes will be run through with a rat-tail file to expose a clean fresh surface for adhesion. Phase Three: Use Clausen's "ClawPlast" filler to fill in all areas of cracked gel coat. Sand to level surface, clean with Acetone. Fill large areas such as instrument panel holes with fibergl***; smooth to "original" blank finish. Phase Four: Cover entire top portion of body with a VERY THIN sheet of fibergl***. After cure, possibly follow-up with a final layer of resin/gelcoat. Attach backing plates with studs (for hood latches and hood hinge plates) with super 2-part adhesive. Phase Five: Spray sandable filler material; block sand for absolute smoothness; make ready for painter. Here are some of the questions I have: 1) I have looked at resins and notice 2-part types and 3-part types. I'm confused on which to use. Can you recommend a QUALITY epoxy resin? 2) Any specifics I need to know about working in this high humidity and temperature, in regards to slow hardening times and curing? I ***ume I can continue to work with a new batch of resin as the first is setting up. Remember that ultimately, the final top coat of smooth resin/gelcoat will be sanded and sprayed with body filler/primer. I won't necessarily need surfboard smooth finish (though it would be nice). 3) After all of the gl*** is laid and resin hardened, would you recommend I use a roller to spread a thick layer of gelcoat? I'm not sure I know the difference between resin and gelcoat. 4) In regards to large holes in instrument panel, would you first resin in a sheet behind the panel, and then fill each hole with consecutive pieces of circular gl***? Or, can I cover a board with wax paper, clamp it behind the panel and then build/fill the holes as described? Same with square areas where radio and circuit breaker were? In closing, I apologize for the number of questions, and if a lot of this can be answered by a good book, then let me know the ***le. I don't want you to have to spend a lot of time with detailed answers....any reply is greatly appreciated.
A. This is a pretty interesting post. B. I haven't got a clue. C. I know some boat builders who have been making stuff out of fibregl*** for a lot of years, I'll ask some questions.
I read your site, and kinda got ****ed in I dig what you're doing, and wish I could help. Below is my two cents---I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong(that's what's cool about the HAMB) I built boats and Corvette parts and lots of molds and stuff in the late 70s, so take my input with a grain of salt. Good luck with your project Patrick
Earl: Many thanks for taking the time to respond, and I appreciate your input. I was always thinking of woven gl*** fabric as opposed to chop stranded mat material. I don't have the balls to cut out a large portion of the instr. panel. My luck, it would suddenly warp and then I'd have another problem on my hands! Interesting method of applying the fibergl***...I can see that working for small patches, but I would expect to be working with pieces that are 12x12" or 12x24" at the very least. Thanks for reading my web site!
To save time and gl***, I would use some rigid foam. I think you have to check what is compatible with your epoxy resin though. I'm used to polyurethane foam, but I don't think that is compatible with epoxy, but works with cheap polyester resin. At any rate, the foam will save a lot of time, gl***, and epoxy. Gelcoat can be sprayed on. That's generally how it is applied to a mold. They have little gauges that you can spray over to make sure it's not too thick. There's a specialty gun used for this. Gelcoat is basically a bondo based medium. They also have a tooling gelcoat for molds that is very hard, but you want the gelcoat for the final body. It gives you a nice surface to sand and level the panel. The reason bondo works so well on a fibergl*** car, is that the gelcoat and bondo are almost identical. Resin on the other hand is not a good surface to sand, and is not compatible with primers and color paints.
Thanks lolife. I may be using an epoxy on the gl*** rather than a 2-part resin. Would that make a difference in regards to fillers/primers compatibility?? If I need a gel coat, I will have to have it done commercially...no way I can spray that **** in my driveway. I appreciate your response and expertise!
I made my own fibergl*** roller out of 1 1/2 inch plastic PVC pipe, you cut it to desired length and slip it right onto a regular paint roller. The pipe fits perfect and doesn't slip, I use a 4 inch roller to put the pipe onto. I did round the cut edges of the pipe to get a smooth role out of it. Just a cheap tool to add to your ****nal of gl*** wars.
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