Who has the CHEAPEST Coupe or Roadster???

i bilt this with k member for maby 2000 at the max as it sits rolling chasi with nail head 600 body free mix. small crap 200 still need shocks and electrical

 

this is so weird,i just sat down last night and did a tally on what i've put in my 27 so far,rolling with the motor and trans,iv'e got $2070.oo in it...still needs an interior,gas tank,complete wiring,windsheild,paint,colome..drive shaft shortened....gauges..........shifter..........shit, now im depressed.....fuckin lump.

 

[ QUOTE ]
If you want to spend $10k on a roadster, go buy one and make it your own. Possibly a resto project. Sell the fenders, the banger and rearend and use that cash to make that resto a rod. See what I mean?
I imagine you'll be running out of cash pretty quick unless you're very resourcefull and skilled.

Some may call it the gold chainer approach, I call it smart and thrifty. You could pickup a decent resto Model A roadster for $7-8k no problem and make $2-3k off the parts you dont need.

-Dane

[/ QUOTE ] i disagree turning all that stuff you pull off that model a might ,maybe bring in a grand on a really good day........ unless that A has some 32-34 fenders hangin on it........resto. guys are thrifty to say the least

my boss decided he wanted all his model a fenders gone 10 bux each i watched 3 old timers pick through what must have been 50-75 fenders to buy what they thought were the two best ones didnt even buy a spare in case..then they haggeled i though he was gonna snap!

it all depends on what you want... a jalopy with a tubing frame you can get done if your resourceful, and you have to have connections and be a good scrounger, sometimes the planets have to be aligned just right also, if you want a period car i would say its impossible but im sure someone can prove me wrong

i got this body from a friend who needed it gone.......the body spindles and brakes are the hardest part after that you can go to pick and pull and build the rest the parts bill for this thing is like 1,500 bux... add wheels and tires 5-600, radiator 500, jyd sbc/trans 500, mistc 1000.oo, its not a coupe but its possible doing EVERYTHING yourself i wouldnt sell this thing for a dime less than 4,500 as a roller ....way too much time , and parts hunting

 

[ QUOTE ]
Not what yer lookin for, but 49 Merc. $3000 as it sits......OLDBEET

[/ QUOTE ]ILL TAKE IT !!!!!!!! when should i pick it up ???????

 

Yeah 32 , I got 4500 in just this thing not including rattle cans at $5 a pop. Maybe if I was In Tehah but I'm in mich. Have you tried to buy parts for a flat six.You'd think you were talkin to a guy with your ears

 

YA again

 

bad thread - you guys have my sheer envy - every part for an american car for sure the price is twice over here
- I've built the hawaiian c-dan nearly without aftermarket stuff, partet out a very good running 66 dart, had luck with the body (it was a crashed car) - and nevertheless she costs me about 15000

 

Less than $1500.00! LOTS of scronging, building, ingenuity, and luck. $200.00 for rolling shell. $75.00 for running Ford van, for engine and tranny. $50.00 grille shell. $30.00 for WALMARTS best latex, and brushes. Dean

 

finished

 

Here's the 31 as it sits today.
$12,000. so far and most of it three years ago money.
The total would probably be $15,000. today.

Brookville body.
Rootlieb hood top.
American Stamping frame rails and front 'A' crossmember.
(Owner built frame & remaining crossmembers)
9" Ford rear end - owner narrowed at home.
SuperBell 4" drop beam axle, used Posies front slider spring, SB steering arms & lower shock mounts.
Owner built tie rod, drag link & panhards front and rear.
Deuce Factory rear sway bar.
SoCal stainless front shock mounts & headlight mounts - cuz they were pretty.
SoCal front chrome shocks.
Speedway rear chrome shocks.
SoCal 40 Ford style transverse rear main leaf, remainder of spring - 40 Ford.
SoCal iridited spring shackles front and rear.
SoCal rear axle spring brackets.
Pete & Jakes rear axle coilover mounts used for the shocks and also in case I change to coilovers in the future - which I don't think I will. Too many advantages and a better ride with a transverse rear spring.
Comp style shifter - used.
Deuce Factory bracket and both pedals - just in case I go to stick shift with this car.
Speedway 32 Ford windshield posts adapted to the A body - which is silly easy. Looks better than the A posts to my eye.

455 Buick engine that would probably run just fine if I regasketed and left it as is - as is means virtually no ridge and pretty clean inside. Gonna rebuild it anyway.
The long tailshaft Olds T-400 is a good one, it will be used as a core and the damaged short tailshaft Buick T-400 - piece broken off where the converter pan bolts on - gets the short tailshaft and related pieces added to the Olds trans and that rebuilt.

There are a whole lot of owner built pieces on the car such as ball bearing aluminum steering column, aluminum throttle pedal, radius rods, motor mounts, hood sides, dash panel etc.
On the build list is the windshield frame and part of it is done.

Granted, 12K or 15K is a chunk of change, but it's been done over a three year + period and I'm ending up with the car I want for about the price of an econo-box.
Nice part is, the 31 will retain its value and the econo-box starts going downhill right away.

Which would you rather drive?

 

One of these days I'm going to spend the time to post the list of stuff it took to build the Roach Rod...

When I add up all the "hard parts", I come up with about $1500 worth of stuff.... engine, trans, body, suspension, seats, steering components... but then all the little stuff added up to another $1300. Go figure.

That's the little stuff that most guys forget to include in the cost of building something...

A lot of the parts were from my dad's pile of stuff... and other parts were from PNP half price day... and then there's the swap meet stuff... and very, very few new parts...

Anyway, I couldn't see building the same car now for less than $6000... or more... How many bodies can you find these days for $50?? And the frame was free... the front axle and spindles free... 4 speed trans for $200... Stomberg 97 carbs for $5 ea... these were good deals three or four years ago when I built the car... but now, because of e-bay, the shit has gone through the roof!

What I snicker about are the guys who accumulate a body, a frame a motor... and then think they're going to build a car out of the pile of parts... when they don't know how to weld, fabricate, scrounge parts, build trannies, mount tires, drill holes and all that other stuff I've spent a lifetime learning. Every guy here that has a running/driving hot rod that they built themselves will tell you that they used skills that they have had to learn from others and on their own to build their car... it's the old "if I had a dollar for every car that was bought, then sold because they didn't have the means to build it... I'd be RICH!"

I'm not saying that we are in an exclusive club... but WE'RE IN AN EXCLUSIVE CLUB!

The RR was only my second pre-48 that I had ever built... but it was that first car (my Model A) that taught be how to weld and fabricate... I had built SEVERAL cars before that... but they required little or no fabrication...

I guess I look at all of the parts piles that sell on e-bay... and some of the ones people here on the HAMB have... and wonder why they never see the light of day.

Money is a big issue... if you can't swing a couple hundred bucks a month to dump into your hot rod... don't even bother starting one because your efforts will end in frustration... likewise, if you aren't willing to learn how to weld by hanging out at someones house and learnig... or taking a class at the JC... hang it up and buy a running car...

Buying and selling cars and parts is a good way to make extra money for your hot rod fix... but if you're using that money to eat and have to live at your parents house... you fucked up somewhere along the line... and shouldn't even THINK about hot rods until you get your life together.

My brother is a good example of how to do it... he knew how to build motors... and paint... and drill and wire... and basically build cars... but he wanted to start fabbing a lot of his own parts... so he went out and took a welding class and bought a welder... presto, he's building shit now and loves it.

He wanted to learn how to do maching work... sold his Bronco, took a machine shop class and bought a lathe and a mill...

My point is... he's not sitting on his ass with a pile of car parts waiting for them to build theirselves... he's up off his ass DOING SOMETHING!!

He hits the wrecking yards up... he goes to swap meets... he reads magazines... there's a pattern here skippy... and if you're not following it... you ain't gonna be driving a hot rod you built yourself...

Does everyone that has a running/driving hot rod that they built themselves agree??

Sam.

 

Also... $10,000 IS a "budget" build...

I built my Model A... inhereted the car when my dad passed away... and then sunk $17-18,000 into it to make it a driver... in primer... with NO interior. But then again, I add up all the little stuff and do my own work... and for the calibur of car that it is... $18,000 is CHEAP.

Same as the low buck car in R&C... if you think that $10,000 isn't cheap for that calibur of car... I'll make you a deal... you build as many Model A roadsters with aftermarket frames, and all the parts that he hung on that car for $10,000... and I will give you $20,000 for each one that you build.

Sure you can slap a RAT ROD together for under $10,000... but it sure as hell ain't no fendered '30 A on an aftermarket chassis with American Mags, SBC, auto trans, saddle tanks and all that other crap that car has...

Sam.

 

[ QUOTE ]
My brother is a good example of how to do it... he knew how to build motors... and paint... and drill and wire... and basically build cars... but he wanted to start fabbing a lot of his own parts... so he went out and took a welding class and bought a welder... presto, he's building shit now and loves it.

He wanted to learn how to do maching work... sold his Bronco, took a machine shop class and bought a lathe and a mill...


[/ QUOTE ]

Sam has spoken a major truth here.
His other comments are on the money as well, but this is the one that counts.

It's hard to do, but set the hot rod stuff aside for a year or so, take the classes and buy the tools.
In the end, you'll save a ton of money and may end up in a position to earn some on the side.

The really good part about build it yourself is that you can fix it yourself.

 

My FORMER car didn't have much invested and could have been buttoned up for some change.

30 Model A Tudor Sedan Body & IFS/IRS Complete Frame - $1,800

30-31 Grille Shell - $30.00
Visor - Free
Header Panel - Free
Curved Roof Panels - $40
Used Wide Whites - $70 through HAMB
15" Steelies - Free
Smithy's - $30
Headlights & Stands - $100
Misc. Switches, Relays - $30
Taillights - Free
'62 283 SBC & Air Cooled Powerglide - $500
MIG Wire/Gas/o2 - $60
Bondo - $4.99
Primer & Tape - $20
Grinding/Cut-Off Wheels - $50


It needed a wiring kit, radiator, interior & glass to be finished. Everything else was thrown in when I sold it for $3,400.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Why do all of the good deals on Coupe bodys have to be on the other side of the world from me? Damn it! I just got my taxes back too. Crap on a stick!

[/ QUOTE ]

I tell you who's got it easy - them thar corn huskers. I'm always seeing cheaper bodies in the bread basket.

DAMN corn huskers....

 

I'm trying to get mine on the road as cheaply as possible, so I've been doing it by trading.I built some cabinets for this guys' new home. He paid for all the materials and I traded the labor for his stalled project car. So far I've got less than 500 dollars in this 34 Plymouth 5 window, But if you were to count all the labor I traded for parts and pieces, I think it'll be about 7 to ten grand on completion. So far I've only bought a 9 inch rear end (75.00) and rebuild parts , bondo , rod ends and various nuts and bolts.
I really think the way to go is to buy someones stalled project and make it your own. This car was already channeled
and the guy did some really nice work.
It can be done, but in todays world ten grand aint a lot of money.

 

I think I have around 13 grand in my truck right now. I tried to keep track of all the little shit, but it is damn near impossible.

I cleaned out my work truck and I had a stack of receipts from the parts store for 20 or 30 bucks that was about an inch tall all crumpled up, and about a quarter inch tall with a rock on them.

I am a moron so I have done some things 3 or 4 times when someone that knew what they were doing would have only done it once, therefore my expenses were a little higher.

I used around 1000 bucks in sandpaper, cutoff wheels, and sawzall blades alone.

I also beleive that even if you have something "laying around" It probably cost you something somewhere along the line too in a trade or whatnot. (figure out how much you spend on gas going to the junkyard at 2 bucks a gallon) Therefore it has some sort of monetary value and is not totally a "freebie". I can order a part and have it shipped to my door cheaper than driving 2 hours to the nearest decent junkyard.

 

After some horse trading I have about $2500 in this pile.

The crap I horse traded cost me something at one point. That $$ and the profits made from it could have remained in my pocket. That $$ spent counts for me. When it is completed I'll figure all the horse trading as real $$. I'll complete it for less than $8000.

JH

 

I plan on the DOGG Bucket being around a dollar a pound.
Body - 600
Frame - 250
Misc Steel - 100
Steering Box, column, wheel, pitman arm - 25 junkyard DJ5 jeep
46 front axle spindles drums etc - 100
Split bones - 50
steering arms - 90
Buick 350 Motor &amp; tranny - <200> ebayed the rest of the donor car
Shifter - 20 Jeep DJ5
wheels &amp; WWW's - 200
Rear axle jeep AMC 20 - 75
Gauges - 50
lights - 50
wiring - 75
brakes - 150
seats - 50
battery - 100 optima
radiator &amp; grill - 100
primer - 75
mismatch paint - 20
rattle cans (motor-frame) - 50
Contingency - 200
Total $2230
here is the mock up pic

 

Dixiedog... you can safely add another $1000 bill, maybe $2000 to the list... there are things like radiator hoses, clams, fuel line, brake line, brake hoses, master cyl, glass, crossmembers, exhaust, headers, floorboards, dash, the bolts and nuts will add up too... a gas tank is another big ticket item... When I added the parts up for Ol' Roachy... I had about a $1500 list... and like I said... all the small stuff added up to another $1300.

Now I believe there are some things that some of the so-called RAT ROD builders will re-use... like hoses, fuel lines and stuff like that... stuff I refuse to skimp on...

My drive shaft was $175 by the time it was shortened, balanced and shod with new U-joints...

Sam.

 

It is hard, I mean impossible to build somethin decent for nuthin. I've dropped a 100 dollar bill at autozone just to buy the little nijjets to get the motor ready to fire up, oil, plugs, hope adapters, thermostat gaskets, just the little bullshit if you want to do it right so you ass ain't sitting on the side of the road.

I am just glad to see people admit to spending some green - I kinda felt like I was the only chump that actually paid for some parts

I have scoured the earth and used junk yard parts - but I usually end up replacing that junk yard piece with a new one - when It wasn't actually so cheap from the JY and I had a bunch of clean up and paint time invested on top of that. Junk Yards aren't exactly giving stuff away. Sometimes they are as high as 70% of the new item - for 30% more I'll take the new one.

 

Two words, DONOR CAR!
I agree that all the little crap costs a ton but with a donor a lot of that can be salvaged. Like Sam said, some things should never be scrimped on, (brakes, radiator, lines and hoses), but its amazing what you can get off an old car that can be adapted.
As an examole, if you go to a salvage yard around here and say "I would like an 8" Ford rear end Mr. Salvage Man please" it will set you back around $100 to $150. Find an old Maverick or Granada in the weeds behind someones house and you could score a 302, C4, tilt column, brake booster\with pedals, tons of linkage and maybe even seats.
Yea, it won't be a 32 with a full bore flattie but added to your early bod and frame and it'll be a hotrod!

My last major build was a 50 Buick. Rearend and front stub was out of a 68 Firebird that was free, the 455, Turbo400, tilt column, Brake pedals and booster, Radiator, and a hundres misc. pieces were from a 73 Buick Limited that cost me $350 that I drove home. I had the 50 running and driving for about $3500 and a ton of work.

 

Sam's driving home a valid point...essentially the same one I was making.

Just today, hooking up a Carter fuel pump that was a birthday gift from Jay involved some 14ga wire, a fuse holder, switch, wire terminals, a small length of hose, a new fuel filter, some clamps, new 5/16" steel fuel line, some fittings, anchor clamps and some washers not included with the pump. All in all, about $25 worth of miscellaneous little items...and that was just to install an electric fuel pump!

It's the same for every other component installation...the gas tank required some aluminum strip to make a strap out of, as well as an assortment of hardware...I'll do a complete photo-by-photo tech post when I shoot out the roll of film and get it developed. I'll detail exactly how much my "ultra low buck" fuel system ends up costing...for those who think "Hell, a $12 tank and a free pump means you won't have twenty bucks in the fuel system!"

I must make two or three trips to the parts store or hardware joint for fasteners, fittings, wire, metal, etc with every small project I complete on the car. I may only spend $2 to $20 per trip...but they DO add up!

Most people (myself included!) tend to forget all those little 'incidental' costs...and if you DO keep your reciepts and tally them up, it may shock ya how much all that stuff actually adds up to in the end!

Locating and securing the "big" parts, and only reporting the cost of those major components makes it look like there are lots of really low buck project cars running around...but like Sam said...unless your re-using old hoses, clamps, rusty hardware, crusty steel lines, half dead batteries, questionable radiators and "may blow" tires and such...the actual build cost can be at least double of what the big stuff cost ya!

Now...making wise use of a "parts car" or a "donor vehicle" with GOOD components can really help to keep costs down. I've done this several times in the past and come out of it for minimal additional cash. If your donor car has a good radiator, tires, battery and so on that fit your project car, you can get ahead of the game a little bit...but you'll still need new clamps, fluids, filters, exhaust system, etc.

Sure cars can be built dirt cheap...but the final cost should include every little 'incidental' part to be a true and honest reflection of how much cash you have invested in your ride...if you care to keep track!

Also, as stated, your skills will affect the final cost. If you can't weld, paint, rebuild a tranny or whatever, that means paying someone else to do it...even if it just means a case of beer and a couple of pizzas for your buddies!

There's another aspect...FRIENDS! Having pals who are also "car guys" is an invaluable asset when building a car! You will come to tap each other's knowledge base, parts stashes and voluntary labor efforts in the course of your various projects! But, that's the FUN part of it...helping your buds while getting your own ride done!

 

I will be the first to admit I have over 20k n my wagon. yes most of the parts are new, and i have paid more then I should have for some things but this is my first attempt at an old car and did not have anyone to teach me how to do one. not knowing intercahngeability and how to fabricate I bought new parts that I knew would work. Am i proud to have this much in it, no.. and I know next time I wil be able to build something cheaper (my Model A for instance).

Its the small stuff that killed me, evertime I went into a parts store it cost me atleast a hundred dollars and I did not need to have an entirely polished/chrome motor either or a nice white interior or all new rubber and .....

I have tried to track ever penny i have spent and thou I know I have missed alot of stuff its adds up quick..

 

Great reality check! But you guys are depressing the HELL out of me!

 

Here is a small portion of my cost for the Frame section. These are the parts, qty and cost with tax... it is missing a few items but will give you a feel.. look at the list of parts and see how many you need to purchase.. (Hopefully it does not crunch together ... the total is at the bottom..)

Description...............Qty.........Total
Tranny K-Member.............1........170.98
Bolt In Motor Mouns ........1.........118.92
Upper Rear control Arms.....1..........54.40
Lower Rear control Arms.....1..........54.40
Nuts &amp; Bolts............... 4...........0.35
Nuts &amp; Bolts................4...........0.52
Nuts &amp; Bolts................2...........1.24
Nuts &amp; Bolts................1...........0.80
Nuts &amp; Bolts................1...........0.82
Nuts &amp; Bolts................8...........8.53
Nuts &amp; Bolts................8...........2.70
Nuts &amp; Bolts................8...........0.88
Nuts &amp; Bolts...............16...........1.24
Rec tube 1.5x2.5x1.25....94.75".........23.77
Rect tubing 4x3x.188"...................19.04
80W90 Gear Oil............. 2............5.82
Diff gasket.................1............4.46
Wheels brake Kit (right)....1...........16.68
Wheel brake Kit (left)......1...........16.68
Axle Kit....................1............8.96
Wheel Cylinders.............2...........31.18
Brk Shoe....................2...........20.15
Rear End Vent tube..........1............4.67
Rect Tube 1.5x2.5x.125......48".........15.28
Brake wrench................1............9.18
Rear brk hose...............1...........18.04
Brake fluid.................1............3.77
Brake Light Switch ..........1............9.45
Brake Line Manifold.........1............5.32
Rear Shocks.................2...........76.05
Rear Left Brake cable.......1...........24.44
Rear Right Brake cable......1...........33.74
Bolts.......................7............3.43
Washers.....................7............0.53
Washers....................34............1.48
Washers.....................7............0.38
Nuts........................2............1.20
Nuts........................2............0.17
Nuts........................2............0.13
Slip Yoke ...................1...........63.80
Drive Line..................1..........232.02
Core Credit.................1...........-5.22
Union.......................1............1.22
Brake Line..................1............4.10
Brake Line..................1............2.15
Brake Line..................1............4.85
Union Tee ...................1............2.43
adapter.....................1............2.21
Cap Screw...................2............1.72
Steel Tube 2.0x1.0x0.65.....1...........15.67
CR Sheet 16G................1...........10.52
Steel tube .750x.065........1............2.39
nuts and bolts.............10............1.52
Snap Spring.................1............1.62
MII Front End...............1.........1707.40
49-54 Bolt In Brake Assy....1..........359.00
Front End Alignment.........1...........65.00
3/32" x 1 1/4" Cotter Pin...1............0.88
wheel spacers...............1...........13.31
total.......3255.34

 

Hey Grim,
The car you are puting together is an awsome example of what can be acomplished on a budget. It looks better every time you post a pic. (Note that my admiration and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee in most places .
And your point about not wanting a "Granada" (insert make of choice here) powered hotrod is exactly why the donor car for my A sedan is a 46 Ford. Will it be more work? Yep. More money? Probably. What I want? Exactly. When will it be done? When it is. The post was "cheapest" way to build and that ussually means compromises. Wasn't trying to say a nice car can't be built on a budget.
George

 

the crux of the matter is the small stuff.
I have about $5000 aus. in this so far...and to all intents everything 'big' is there...but i know there is atleast another three grand making it go brooom. stuff like brake lines,fuel system bits, wiring, blah blah...
As other melbourne guys will agree, I have had rediculous luck finding everything i need and paying low prices for it.its all about being mindful of everything you need to buy, and saying, can i make this instead?

 

Grimlock, RAW DETERMINATION will get most people TOTALLY FUCKING FRUSTRATED after a certain amount of time.

I built the RR in 7 months... I have helped no less than four young people in my area attempt to get car projects put together... I offered them my tools, welding lessons, garage space, advice... everything but doing it for them... and ALL FOUR OF THEM pussed out because they didn't want to put in the TIME and MONEY.

You have to have not only RAW DETERMINATION but also MONEY.

How much do you think you will have into your roadster when you are finished?
Devide that by how many months it will take you to build it and you will probably be surprized at the dollar amount.

Like I said... the RR was built in 7 months... and initially for $2800 (before new motor and 3rd tranny) That's $400 a month.

I would say that the average cost of a RAT ROD styled car is about $5,000-$10,000... and this is considering using a body that nobody wants... If you want to spend $100 a month... it'll take you five to ten years to build it... that's taking in consideration you can save your monthly $100 in a spot where the wife can't find it...

My opinion is that raw determination gets you the same pile of parts sitting in the same spot on your garage with the same picture on the HAMB for four years... At some point you have to spend some MONEY on it.

I guess I get tired of reading about and seeing cars mocked up on blocks of wood and jackstands on the HAMB... Sure, every car that was ever built "from scratch" was mocked up with blocks... but mocked up for two months... three months... a year... FOUR YEARS? (not yours Grimlock)

Determination... yea... I don't have much of it...

Sam.