After you make a (t weld), like a bracket to frame and you want to grind it some to make a finger pass of bondo. What is your favorite way to grind it? File grinder, carbide tip, 4 1/2 hard wheel on a angle grinder or ?????. Didn't say I was a good welder.
I clean my welds with a cutoff disc on an angle grinder. Not the safest, but you can really see were the cutoff wheel is grinding. The grinding wheels are just too big & bulking to really see what your grinding. Carl Hagan
I'd use the edge of a cutoff wheel. Use a thick one as the thin ones are no good for this purpose. Thats how I sometimes dress stop/starts and it works well.
I'm new around here, but have a bit of experiance. take a cut off wheel, if you have a thick disc (3/16ths to a 1/4) will work, if not put like 3 or 4 thin ones together, that will work. do the rough grinding, get the big birdshit out of the way, then you can go back with some 3" roloc grinding discs by 3M (preferably 24 grit), and smooth everything out. If you do it right, no need for filler. goodluck, and learn to TIG. =)
I use a rounded end cylindrical shaped carbide burr in a straight die grinder, it takes a steady hand, but it works great, and makes a nice filet. This is nice for non structural areas, but Ive always read that grinding off any weld bead weakens the weld.
Hi-temp lab-metal works with powder coating. On the grinding, I'd be very careful 'cause it's easy to go too far and seriously weaken the weld.
Use a 3/16" grinding wheel, but radius both the edges of the wheel by grinding the edges on some scrap steel for a while. It gives you a real nice radius for cleaning and smoothing welds in corners.
I say if you are going to put a little mud on it don't grind it at all. if your welds come out so ugly you have to grind them before your friends see them practice some more. and remember a pretty weld does not mean it is strong
Grinding welds? Only people who can't weld grind welds. I guess unless you're trying to make something seemless looking. Sam.
If your going to powder coat the piece, JB Weld will work and withstands the heat unlike Bondo. As for your original question, I use a gringing wheel until it's almost down smooth, switch to a medium sanding disc, to get it smooth, then polish with a small angle die grinder with a real smooth sanding disc. If it's an inside joint, I'll use a straight die grinder with a de-burring tool sized to the joint, then switch to various roughness' of drums on a Dremel. Disregard the ugly weld comment. I like all of my stuff to look as seamless as possible no matter what or where it is. Dude's who need their ego stoked usually make those comments. It does weaken the weld to an extent though.
i realize that you say that you are not necessarily a great welder, but a good weld should be so nice that you dont want to cover it up. if i see a truly good line i notice that and makes me respect the build more than a bondoed up half weld. if it is structural, the weld, every bit you grind out is less strength. but to your question, a flap disc always works good for me if in a tight space or die grinder
I can weld well enough to be safe and confident. In fact some of you guys are probably riding on some welds I made in '53. Should of used the word cleanup instead of grind.
ha ha nice comeback. i don't know that i'd take credit for factory welds though. i'd say if you're having a problem with welds being "too big", adjust your feed speed and only lay down the metal that you need. learning starts and stops takes a while on mig (you need to roll into and out of them), but spend some time with it and you'll be able to even it out. as far going for the "seamless" look, for body work and the like i use flap disks or a carbide bit in a rotary tool, just be carefull not to heat up the metal too much. if it's on a frame, like in you're original question, i'd only grind it down if there's a clearance issue, and even then i'd re-engineer whatever was causing the issue. frame welds really shouldn't be compromised so they look "nice".
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