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primer/sealer questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by actionrog, Aug 7, 2007.

  1. actionrog
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 99

    actionrog
    Member

    Hey there ladies and gents,
    I'm not to hip as to primers and paints. I was hoping to get some insight as to a good primer/ sealer to use on my bare metal parts.
    I don't want to put something on the car that I'm going to have to remove later. Do I need to know what kind, and color of paint I'm planning to use before I chose a primer/sealer. I plan to have the car professionally painted and don't intend to be running it with just primer at least not for an extended period of time. I just need to know what can I use on my recently blasted parts so I don't have to have them reblasted when it comes time for paint.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
    Thanks
     
  2. 53chevy
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,570

    53chevy
    Member

    Sand blasting can leave residue/contaminants and cleaning the metal would be a First good step. I would use etching primer first ,then a good low or high build primer. There are some many variations and everyone has there preference too. Also, sandblasting can leave pits and sanding the metal would be a good idea too, for a smother surface prior to spraying the primer.
     
  3. actionrog
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 99

    actionrog
    Member

    Thanks for the input
    53 cehvy!
     
  4. Always a good idea to carry the same brand paints from primer to clear. Decide what paint you are going to use and make sure the primer is compatible. If you have decided on the painter, ask him, or her, for instructions.
     
  5. TommyLeDouche
    Joined: Apr 16, 2007
    Posts: 62

    TommyLeDouche
    Member

    Like 53chevy said you can have contaminates after sandblasting. But just something to put down on a work in progress, I would use a 2k epoxy primer. I can go onto properly cleaned bare steel and most of it you can do body work over if needed later on. Primers arn't ment to be exposed to UV's for too long so the sooner topcoated the better.
     
  6. actionrog
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 99

    actionrog
    Member

    Thanks guys
    I've been thinking along those lines. I was just checking out House Of Kolor products online as I was thinking of using their paint. So It would also be a good idea to use their KC 10 and KC20 surface cleaners as well? I know HOK stuff is expensive but it also seems to be one of the best.??? Or at least most widely used?
    Thanks again for the help.
     
  7. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ


    Ya man. But properly cleaned, means properly cleaned. For instance, I would use House of Kolor Direct to Metal Epoxy Primer. I spray that once all my metalwork is complete before I touch any fillers. It calls for the substrate to be thoroughly cleaned and free of wax, grease, etc. It also calls to be sanded with 40 grit which I do just prior to priming. Body work over that, then HOK KP2 Epoxy Primer, then block block block, then HOK Ko-Seal II. Absoloutely the best primer system in the book. You'll know where your money has gone when your finish is still holding up 15+ years.

    I usually end up topcating with somehting other than HOK as well. Usually PPG and I've never had a problem.
     
  8. actionrog
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 99

    actionrog
    Member

    thanks SlowandLow63
    I guess that was how I was thinking. I'm going to order up the goods right now.
     
  9. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    I didn't see this post as I was wrinting mine. Their surface cleaners are good and I will user them if I have some in the shelf. Otherwise a good Prepsol and some elbow grease works just about the same. My advice is to order at least a quart of reducer, RU311. Unless your are trying to really fill, it is best in the DTM as well as the KP2 to help it flow out a little better. Also, I would defnitely reduce 10% in your sealer. I love that stuff, when reduced, it flows like a basecoat.
     

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