Hey Fella's, anyone had experience with this product?...U-Coat-it http://www.ucoatit.com/ Looking at a house with 2 car garage, that smells from dogs******** and*****ting in there. Hoping a good pressure wash and a fresh coat of paint on the floor, ceilings and walls, will make it usable. Price seems reasonable($250) if it works, plus will give a nice spill-proof finish.
A friend of mine coated his garage and it is holdin' up good. I'll find out what he used tomorrow. He washes his cars in the garage alot. The tires are not staining it. Have fun,Smokey
What about the Rustoleam product or Behr? pro's...con's? I am about to do the floor and I must decide soon.
My son just spent 4 days doing this with a Sherwin Williams product. Left the doors open so it would cure good B4 he put everything back in the garage. Floor turned from gray to yellow where the sun hit it. They told him they sold him the wrong reducer but wouldn't do anything about it. I wouldn't recommend this brand!
By the time you get that floor clean enough to accept the finish, the signs of dog will be gone. Most of the epoxy floor coatings require an acid etched concrete surface for adhesion. If all you're going to do is park your car on it epoxy is fine. If you do any welding or cutting (or even grinding) you'll probably just mess up a high dollar floor.
I used the old Sherwin-Williams Tile Clad HS epoxy - it's held up real well - prep is the key I believe to a good coating. Clean it, etch it, and if it's on there - you'll have to sand to remove any of the "cure" off of new concrete (or have them skip it if you're pouring new!) - I had to rent a floor sander with some really heavy duty sanding discs - like 36 grit? to remove the "cure"... I've heard roumour that the new stuff is water based - the stuff I used was solvent based about 5-6 years ago.... Blown49 - I wouldn't write the stuff off - just never go back to that dealer! That really*****s that they admitted the problem and won't fix it!
I used the Rustoleum water-based epoxy coating. It came with a packet of cleaner that you mixed with warm water. I had relatively new concrete but I used it anyway taking time to brush it thoroughly with a broom. Rinsed it off and away I went. I can't remember exactly, but I think the directions said to apply it over damp concrete. I'm happy with it. It has held up very well and with the specks, it appears clean all the time. I even sprayed my frame to my truck in there and got some overspray on the floor in one area. I took some mineral spirits to it and the floor coating didn't budge. I paid about 50-60 bucks for a kit and I needed two to do my floor. For the money, I'd try the Rustoleum product.
I used a Sherwin Williams water based product, it was a two component product. Looks good after a year so far. Hot slag, no.
I do all the time and really doesn't mess it up much. I weld, cut grind, and hammer on the one both in my garage and at my shop. Did both of them myself with the water based product. It's tougher than people give it credit for. There is one of the kits from Lowe's that I was happy with but the other I wasn't. I'll go back through my notes and figure out which was which...
In 2000, I hade Floorguard take care of my garage floor disaster. It was $3.50 square foot. My two car garage was $1450. I've never been happier. A real showplace. www.floorguard.com
So whats the verdict with welding ,cutting,and grinding Do any of the above mentioned hold up? Do any go up, as in flames? I am thinking of using white tile, some real gold chain***** BUT I know that wont hold up to smashing beer bottles, so I'm skeptical
I used to coat floors for a living and would not use any over the counter epoxies or urathanes, The key factor in getting good adhesion results is the prep!, Acid etch (then nuturalize) or grind. as you can see i grind, weld and what-not on my floor, the key is its so busy that you have a hard time seeing the flaws, you could not get away with this in a solid color floor.
My $.02 worth. I used a mop-on clear water based urethane. I thought i wanted grey, a friend who does floors suggested a clear so that scratches, etc wouldn't show. I'm happy with the results, especially since it's a work shop and I know I'll screw it up. He says when it wears, just clean and mop on more.
I burnt my buddy's epoxy urathane floor up bigtime. Every weld that hit the floor left a scar and when welding upside down with the wire speed up some the slag was actually catching the floor on fire in spots. He said he got the cheaper of the 2 and should have got the high dollar stuff but it was black and he didn't want it. I would lysol the dog piss and keep some smooth concrete.
Even the high dollar stuff will burn with cherries on top, it's commonly used in industrial applications as a sacrificial layer to protect concrete, around cutting saws and the like. If if gets too F-d up you just redo an area. They are resistant to most chemicals, however carburetor cleaner is not one. If you're the type who uses aerosol carb cleaner to remove heavy grunge, will have to reevaluate your cleaning methods.
The floor is painted with a Sherman-Williams Industrial/Marine 2 part epoxy. I highly recommend this coating and there are tons of color choices and 3 sheens to choose from. I applied two coats and allowed it to dry 3 weeks before putting a vehicle on it.
Mine has Muscle Gloss, looks - works great. Not the cheapest, but I've tried others in the past (other houses) and this is by far the best I've used.
If you use Rustoleum brand, keep in mind there are a number of different types of products they sell. Entry level is an interior water base basement floor epoxy, then a water base garage coating. The better product they sell is solvent based and is available in a clear topcoat as well. At the company I work for, we just did our lab floors with the solvent base product including the little colored chips you throw down and then the solvent base high gloss clear coat. It looks pretty good and has held up to a lot of wear and tear over the last year. Can't comment on welding though.
Whats the price on something like this, been wanting to do this to my barn for along time. Oh yeah, I like where you keep your engine and transmission.
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