Wiring Question: Splicing tips

I started laying out the wiring harness for the truck this weekend and got to thinking about the dash lights. Anybody have any tips on splicing wires? I've tried a lot of methods, and they all work in the end, but they always seem a little rinky dink.

I'd be especially interested in hearing how you make a section of wire extensible. Like say you wanted to add another bulb to your existing dash light string. I've tried cutting the insulation and soldering into the old wire (kind of a pain) and chopping the last bulb and stuffing both wires into one **** connector (kind of bulky). Is there a better way or are splices always kind of kludgy?

 

they make side clips. that have a metal blade inside and it clips over both wires. you put it on both wires and squeeze it together and it slices itself into the wire. i think thats what you are asking?

 

That's called a tap splice and they make solderless connectors for them.

 

I splice and solder, myself, but those clips work great, too. You can get them at most autoparts stores.

 

Use a buss block or bar and attach the wires to it.

 

heres a picture.

 

Strip 1/2" off of both wires. Put some heat-shrink tube over one end (about 1.5" long), and then put a larger heat-shrink tube over the other end (about 1" long).

Twist the wires together (real nice) and solder using a solder-gun and rosin-core solder. Try not to breathe the fumes (lead content).

Pull the small heat-shrink tube over the cooled connection. Use a heat-gun to melt the heat-shrink. Do not use fire (match, BBQ lighter, or BIC lighter). Now pull the larger heat-shrink over the connection and melt.

If you have two wires going to one, then use small heat-shrink on each wire, and then a larger heat-shrink to cover the whole thing. I generally strip about 1" back on all wires to make multiple wire twisting easier.

Hint: try not to make more than one splice in the same area. If you have multiple wires to splice, put them on a diagonal, so that all the splices aren't right next to each other. Several inches apart is better if you can.

These splices will last a lifetime, and are great for under the carpet.

 

Yes what he said. I like to make as few splices as I can by splicing 2 or 3 wires at the same connection. 3 is about the limit for an attractive splice.

Solder and heat shrink is the only way. IMHO

Those squeeze together wire splice gizmo's are fine if you are renting a U-Haul trailer in the parking lot of a gas station but they don't belong on a hot rod. If you ever spent an hour or two trying to figure out sloppy wiring slapped together with those squeeze connectors, you'd throw them all away. They are for emergency use only to get you home late at night.

The solder flows in and around each wire strand just like water will. The solder keeps the water out and eliminates bad connections. The shrink tube is added protection and makes a professional looking connection.

 

Just a tip from my R/C car days: If you find yourself in a situation in which you can't slip the heat shrink tube over the wires, cut it length wise and slip itover the wires. Make a lap joint (IE over lap the heat shrink ends). Then use some super glue to glue the tube back together. Works like a charm.

 

Solder and shrink wrap for me. NEVER use a Scotchloc.

 

Ditto on solder and shrink-wrap. DO yourself a favor and go to HF and buy the big shrink-wrap kit. Chasing wiring problems annoys the **** outta me, so fixng it so I never have to chase it again is paramount...

 

haha...We call those "Farmer Clamps". Ever look under an old farm truck? Those things are everywhere.

 

Yeah, there are a few of those under the dash right now. They used to be wrapped in duct tape. It's pretty cl***y.

All the cut and solder instructions I've seen have you cutting the insulation in the middle of the wire. I value my thumbs, so I've always clipped the wire, stripped the insulation like normal, and braided in the new piece. Guess I just ***umed that was not best practice.

 

HA, ha, ha. I was just giving my old man **** about using these things the other day. Why is it old farmboys have a fetish for **** conectors?

 

haha, the 52 chevy truck we got did have alot of them. but i live on a farm and i dont ever use em. i usually just run 3 ends together twist and then stick em into a wire end so i can unhook all 3 from the rest of the wires if i need to work on something.

 

Uh...DON'T use these......they can partially cut the wire and/or not make a good connection.....
I've spent time on the side of the road at night chasing electrical problems in a freind's car because of these damn things.........

Like wiring a house????


I'll generally use the crimp, **** connectors that have the heat shrink made onto it if I need to make "jumper" wires, generally for power to gauges and their lights.......but I also do alot of soldering as well........

 

I do lots of wiring and trouble shoot wiring at work. I NEVER use Scotchlocks or **** connecters. Why? They're bulky, Scotchlocks sometimes cuts the wire (not just the insulation) and **** connecters seem to come loose or break the wire at the connecter. I usually just strip the wire, twist them together "in line" and heat shrink them. I can't ever remember having a bad connection this way and if you need to take the wire apart for some reason, it's not a problem. If you can't get heat shrink on the wire, good old electrical tape works.
Larry T

 

Run a power wire to one of these terminal blocks under the dash and you will have an easy to reach power source.

 

i dont use those, i was just posting an option. he said it was a pain in the *** so i posted the easiest option.

im not sure what they are called, quick disconnects i guess?? ones male and ones female, and they are round.

 

Ok everybody get out your torches and pitchforks and prepare to run the heretic out of town, but I don't solder anything on my cars. Having worked on television trucks for the last few years I have found that solder is at best a pain and at worst brittle and prone to breaking from the constant vibration. I prefer crimp connectors. The trick is to use the right pliers. Harbor freight sells a pair of "klein" pliers.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36411
I use these. Just my $.02

 

Harbor freight? Where are the good tools? Come on, I live electricity, soldier and shrink-wrap is the 100 percent way to go!

 

I just call those BULLET connectors.......

 

"Muttley" has the ultimate termination technique, but you still have to soldier the connection ends.

 

I never solder anything. I always use non insulated terminals and shrink tubing, I have never had a problem with this method. You have to remember to crimp the terminal properly and use good quality terminals and crimpers.

 

I'd venture a guess that the chinese factory that supplies HF with shrink-wrap is the same one that supplies Graybar. I used to work for Thomas & Betts and they make all that stuff with their various companies. It's all chinese all the time...

 

Nah, those are good. I just use them for the end connectors, not for splicing. The crimp-on splices are just too big and ugly, and don't lay down good under the carpet.

They look like you're hiding a polish sausage in there or something.

Ummmm, polish sausage.... Ummmmm

 

They make a shrinkwrap connector that has a ring of solder that melts made into the middle of the connector. They work great! I found them at NAPA, etc. Good luck

 

Solder splices work well. Get the ones with the enviromental ends....shrink tube built in. I would rather use these than doing a regular solder joint. Solder joints are brittle and the vibration wil kill them over time. And if your going to solder do not use rosin core wire. The flux (rosin) is an acid and over time will eat the solder. Use a good tin solder...tinn the wires before soldering and use a liquid flux for flow. Afterward make sure to clean the joint with alcohol to remove flux. I do Mil spec wiring on a daily basis for alot of three lettered government agengies building first responder and tactical vehicles. Mechanical splices if done correctly with good tools (not kliens) is the best way to accomplish reliable terminations. Splices are for repairs only. Everything should be home runned to it's termination point. If you need to extend power use a terminal block or fuse block to distribute.
Fitysix

 

Muttley, where do you get those? I alwats need em, but can only find the terminal blocks with separated terminals. They used a universal one in camaros alot like that one but they are $9 plus about 6 bucks in shipping.

 

I have 2 of these "terminal blocks" that I got from Mad Electrical

I am rewiring my 49 and I have taken lots of info from this site. For a guy who knew nothing about wiring this site has really given me the courage to do it all myself.

As for my splices, I have taken the directions and crimp, then solder, then shrink wrap.

also if you want a slick way to wire your dash guages and indicator lights, go to the "for Sale" section of the forum and do a search for Rebel Wire. Glenn is a great guy, has an instrument wiring kit that is straight forward, and is an Aliance Vendor.