I hope i get to see that coupe at the drags! Good luck. Speed King, didnt you do that at the drags a few years back? You gonna make it there this year?
Nice work. It doesn't take much to destroy a '39 box. If you really want to drive that thing, consider upgrading to Cad-LaSalle (3 speed), Ford toploader (4 speed) or T5 (5 speed). You'd have to make a real effort to destroy a Cad-LaSalle or Ford toploader with a flathead. T5 not too hard, but it sure would hold up better than that '39. If you want to stick with the '39, parts are readily available (but not cheap) and rebuild time is only a couple hours once it's on the bench (although getting to that point could take substantially longer).
Well, that ****s. What's the quickest way of getting the ****** out, ***uming you've still got the torque tube? Dismount the rear, and roll it back? Will you have to pull the motor? Rich
I think blowing up the '39 is just part of the dedication it takes to own and drive a car like my a-coupe. ****s, but ya gotta pay the fiddler and I am willing... Shifting that old 3-speed is just... well, fun. But yeah, it's expensive in money and time... The motor has to come out, but I think I already have a ****** replacement thanks to who else? Keith Tardel.
Reliability factors: Endplay of cluster. Endplay of upper shaft fit...play will be in MIDDLE, requires some thinking...and result needs to be full engagement. Adjustment by milling rear of case and/or spacing with slingers. Play in 2nd gear. Endplay lethal with spiral gears. Pilot bearing in flywheel and the pilot between front and rear upper shafts must be good, including condition of shaft running in bearing, for input to be stable. For dragsters, gears were re-heat treated softer...just like 9" Ford gears are done now for faster drag cl***es.
After blowing a handful I was putting one together and notice the front to back play of the upper cluster, I made different thickness spacers to go back by the thrust washer until it was as tight as a fit and still able to put it together, needless to say this one is still in the car.....knock on wood. I have learned over the years on the ways to peel and shift these boxes so they stay together a bit longer.
Bruce, I just happen to be in the process of pulling the engine and trans to rebuild the '39 box in my 5-window, which internally looks very similar to Ryan's. The donor trans I have is a '40s type sideshift, but the cluster has loose needle bearings instead of caged. Do you know if this is a '49 trans and ok to go in the '39 case? Everything seems to fit fine, but I've never had one with loose bearings before.
Contact Cornhusker Rod & Custom for the t-5 adapter kit, if you can stand to break tradition. Sololobo / Now why the hell would he want to do that?
OK. I guess this is the part where everybody tells you what to do. Ignore us and build it back or repair it your way.
Looks like the 39 box I blew on my 286 cube flathead - except my had friggin Zephyr gears which were unobtainium even in the 70's! I then rebuilt another one and really paid attention to all the thrust washers, cluster bearings, synchros, etc -- had everything nice a tight. The "new" Zephyr box hung in there pretty good -- even with a new blown flathead on it and some pretty sticky 8" tires in the back. I love the looks and sound of a 39 box . . . Zephyrs are not worth the money . . . but I hate peeling the teeth off like a corn cob. Even though I hate to do it . . . my next blown flattie will have a Muncie or T5 behind it --- then I'm sure I'll blow the Q.C. rear next! Always something to break . . . thats the way it works! Best of luck!
-I can see everyone has been very helpful in matters of the mechanical, but how about the "aw, ****" factor? Seeing as how it was midnight and the party involved was the wif's office gang, were there any cardigan wearin' light loafers that got a giggle at your misfortune? if so, a carefully disguised fruit-basket should do the trick, just make sure she's on a vacation day.........cluster bombs happen (pretty sure you had one!)............
Ryan, You're right about pay-to-play. This is where you bond with your car and It's soul is reborn. Your little bumps in the road, points dying, fuel pet**** malfunction , and now ****** destruction, are all part of those things that let you know your car better than anyone else. You can't plan it or fake it. Just pay up and enjoy the time you get to spend seeing to the details.
Sorry for your trouble but shift happens if'n ya drive 'em (read that hammer 'em) from time to time. I know you'll get her fixed. Just think... you'll have one more great bench racin' story to tell...
It's a great idea for those who don't mind straying a little from strictly traditional --- Making their car a bit more sturdy, replacing a possible weak link. Also, for those that like to do alot of highway driving, the overdrive makes it that much easier. Better gear ratios are also a factor... Malcolm
I dug out some '55 thru '57 Chev ****** parts last night to photo for a HAMBer looking for parts. There is a reason I have lots of those ****** PARTS. They are left over from all those transmissions that I shelled in the mid 60's. The worst part when something like this happens is not the parts destruction but the fact that it happened when you were putting on a show for a bunch of "civilians"! BTW, it was good to see your dad chime in on this post.
'55 Chevy trans (remember STOCK cl*** racers in the '70's carried multiple spares of those bombs) have identical issues to early Ford--usually too much damn endplay, and some special tricks to kill play at center of top shafts and second gear... Top shaft play is tricky, because you can kill endplay separately at each end, making all feel tight, but still have a gap in middle and less than full engagement in one direction...more trix needed. "The donor trans I have is a '40s type sideshift, but the cluster has loose needle bearings instead of caged. Do you know if this is a '49 trans and ok to go in the '39 case..." Needle bearing cluster is '49-50, I think. It is entirely usable in earlier case with its correct bearings and perhaps thrust washers...it is the same basic gear, and can be found showing the "68" number dating back to '36! I've never use done myself, so all I can say is equip yourself with all related washers and figgerout which is needed. Remember, there are two basic lengths of cluster with matching washers to make total package right... Some suppliers now sell a kit cantaining '49 gear and related bits to replace early.
Hey man! Sorry to see the carnage, and congrats on driving it like you know how to fix it! (you are going to rebuild it yourself, aren't you?? They aren't that hard! ) Trans fixablity issues is one reason I went with the 40 X member rather than the 32 K member. A little easier to fix broken driveline, and it's an old trick from the 50s, too
Geez, I'm starting to get real nervous. I've already broken gears and blown apart cluster gears with a stock flatty! Guess I'll have to be real careful once I start adding the go fast bits. They sure aren't that easy to come by over here....
Bruce, Thanks for clarification on the parts swap. Been asking around about that for a while and nobody seemed to know for sure.
For all of you that dont know or havent seen this. When I'm not in here gathering information My other technogical library http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm is here...including transmissions check it out. Good stuff.
That guy is a member, and has produced an excellent book on Ford transmissions. Highly recommended by many. Meanwhile--don't just ***emble. Kill that endplay!
Bruce, How much end-play would you say is acceptable? And if you only have a small amount, how do you make it up? I was thinking of cutting a "spacer" from shim stock and mounting it on the case side.
Keith got back from Bonneville on Tuesday night, immediately built a transmission for me, and then sent it next day air... How do you thank somebody for doing something like that. I'm in so much debt. Motor comes out and new ****** in this saturday.
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