Hey guys, I'm tinkering around with an old Black & Decker valve grinder and was wondering what coolant is reccomended in these things?? I tried using some water based synthetic stuff that I use on my cold saw but it seems to get thrown off the wheels immediately. So what is typically used??? Also I had some literature that suggested grinding 1 degree less on the valve than the seat - I tried it on a valve just to see -seemed to work ok, but I can't see the value in it. What do you guys normally do?? Thanks
When I worked in a machine shop twenty years ago, a mixture of water and water soluble oil was used for coolant. We also cut the valves at 44 degrees if the seat was 45; the idea is that the valve will wedge itself a seat that will seal better than 45 on 45.
We used solvent in the one at my tech college with a little oil mixed in and it always seemed to work pretty well.
Like Squirrel said some use honing oil. The shop I worked in years ago used Sunnen honing oil that was used in the CK10 cylinder honing machine. We rigged a flow through oil filter to it so the oil was filtered before being returned to the oil sump. The grind particles stay in suspension longer in oil than in water so if it's not filtered you get grind contamination in the oil going on the valve and it can cause a rough finish. Frank
try goodson,i have been using there vgo-10 valve grinding oil for a few years finish excelent as for water base had corriosion issues on machine when it sat between uses. about 16 bucks a gal.
The old Sioux machine we have uses plain old ATF, in spite of being a million years old this thing still does a very nice job. Some engines called for a one degree "interference" angle, old timers tell me that it allowed better seat contact at higher temperatures and rpm. I don't know how much truth is in that theory but I always cut the seat and the valve the same angle. Of more importance to me is the actual seat width of the finished product, and the seating location on the seat itself.
I use a Kwik-Way machine with Kwik-Way oil and a little of ProBlend's Mirror finish. I like a 45 degree on the seat and just a little less on the valve. A 30 or 35 degree on the top cut to set the seat diameter. A 55 or 60 on the bottom to set the thickness of the seat. Bounce the valve on the seat and it puts a real faint mark on the valve face exactly where the outside diameter of the seat is. Have fun,Smokey
Any type will not stick to the wheel when running; from looking at it anyways. Aim the nozzle at the valve where it meets the stone. The coolant will cool the valve.
Thats how I cooled everything when I worked in a toolcrib, from drills to what ever, where you aim it is critical..........and we used honing oil in our High school machaine way back when..............Dave Littleman Lohr
OK I am just learning by the seat of my pants here Aiming it at the valve is what I was doing for the valve side of things - no problems there. BUT when resurfacing the TIP I take it that you "swipe" the valve across the stone (once clamped into the holder of course) aiming the coolant here isn't so easy since it's a bit of a moving target. I also noticed right away that if you don't keep the velve end cool that you immediately see "high spots" on the end - obviously a result of localized heating (so I guess anyways) I was wondering if the coolant I used was making this worse - it also seems to pulse a bit. I didn't get to fiddle with it tonight - I was being Mr. Mom tonight and ran out of time. I'll keep asking for help until I get this figured out. Thanks guys - every little bit helps!!!
I use Goodsons oil in my B&D. When I worked in a shop years ago We used Sunnen hone oil in everything.
We have an old Red Souix, I think it is, that might be available for very reasonable if someone will be here in the KC area for the Greaserama. Currently, it is used for storage but if someone really needs it, I think my brother in law might be willing to let it go to a good home. thand@kc.rr.com for anyone who has any inkling of taking one home with them. Tom