be sure to wear gloves,,lacquer thinner on your hands goes straight to your nervous system,.,not sure if you knew ,but wanted to post it for those that may not know..,,,
Yea, I have been. I only found one good way to breath around that stuff to.................really deep.
If you spray without a mask long enough, you don't even smell thinner anymore. I have since converted.
Surprised no one has mentioned the POR-15 products yet; Glisten PC and Peulicid. Both can go direct to bare metal and are not porous like a conventional 3 part is. No pores=no oxygen for the rust to form. Haven't used the Peulicid clear much on an exterior surface, but I did use the Glisten PC on my 64 pickup grill for about a year. no rust underneath during that time. Used to sell the stuff working at a paint-body jobber and never heard a complaint from what was sold there. Kinda spendy but it seems to work well. jon p
BE DAMNED SURE, that you don't create a spark with that scotchbrite! I 'prolly jumped in with my answer a little quick,as I did not notice whether you mentioned power or hand pad. But that lacquer thinner makes a quick,spectacular fire when it lights off!
Ok, I was told tonight at a local cruise night by a long time car restorer, that you can use baking soda and a damp clothe and it with stop stop the rust from developing almost all together. Anyone else here of this?
my MAC tool box (the one that comes bare,metal with swirls in it),,i dont know what they use,(maybe a clear powdercoating?),but ive had it about 4 years and it hasnt even thought of rusting,,,
There's alot of those myths about peanut ****er mixed with cough syrup to stop rust, I prefer primer with a nice topcoat. To each his own. Just check to see what chemicals are in bakung soda to find out if if will hurt you when its time for paint.
I don't think there's anything in baking soda that will hurt it come paint time because they soda blast cars all the time.
Makes sense, I dont know thats why I menioned it. I did however find out there is such a clearcoat for bare metal. I have no name for it yet, but there is such a thing! It sounds like a self-etching prime, but obviously clear instead. I'll try to find out more.
If it was me i would just paint it and get it over with, but i did have a really really amazing idea.....Clear LineEX, before they add the black or what ever color you want it's clear. Of course your car might feel like a really rough piece of concrete, but who's done it??
What about this stuff? Could I use this and then paint over it? This is whats recomended....."1 to 4 with warm water for best results with a green scotch brite and 800 grit where its rough."
I believe that is acidy. I used to use it when I worked for a powerwasher cleaning decks and man that **** burned. As long as you soap and water the car before primer and paint, you should be ok. Won't be nearly as bad as an oil based junk.
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