Have an lt1 engine i am planning on useing in a secret project..It has On Board Diagnostic computer system #2 . I have had PCM for less work on it..but im still having problems..seems he cant get it right and im getting tired of working with them. the shipping back and forth is costing more than the programming. any one out there up on this shit? Hope this isnt off toppic..but im sure alot of you guys are useing LT1 ..LS4's etc..if not than shoot this to the curb..I'll leave quietly
It really depends on the problem? If i can't help....check out www.cz28.com There's a forum for computer diagnostics and programming.
PCM for less..so its custom reprogram..the original gm program didnt do this but than it was stock..since than the water was removed from the manifold..the added a cold air intake..i guess he upped the timing. and changed the shift points..the effort was to go from 290 H.P. into the low 300 H.P. range and it also has flowmaster true duals on it. and a K&N air cleaner..trying to get this into a 55 Buick
oh i forgot to tell you the sound the engine makes..when it is hot..(operating temp.) it diesels like..when it is in gear at idle..screams like an eagle under acceleration but when it is in gear at idle it makes this knocking sound..if i take it out of gear..no load..the knock stops..it is an internal spark type knock not a worn piston..crank..etc..
When the custom program was made, did he know that it didn't have any emissions on it? Also, have you tried an LT4 knock module?
Yeah "atomic" he knew..it was his ideas..Thought about the lt4 mod. just wasnt sure if i needed to buy the mod and the sensor too?
LT1s don't route water through the manifold to begin with. If you're talking about eliminating the water through the throttle body, that makes no difference in tuning either, nor should a cold air intake to any significant degree. What year LT1 and ECM or PCM are you using? On my '95, eliminating the A.I.R. system will not cause a code, nor does eliminating the EGR, as long as the switch for it remains hooked up on the electrical side. Knowing pcmsforless' reputation, I really doubt your problem is in the tune. I'm guessing you haven't done any datalogging to send them. Given the LT1's ability to retard spark as needed to prevent detonation, the fact that it's dieseling tells me that something is majorly wrong here. I've run as high as 11.3:1 CR on an LT1 on pump gas w/ no problems and w/o the PCM pulling spark at WOT. The aforementioned LT4 knock module is a good upgrade for any LT1. But it will only work on the '94 and newer ones, not the earlier ones with a prom. And it will not solve the problem you're having. It's main benefit is to prevent unnecessary spark retard that can be caused by false knock signals from roller rockers, headers, etc. Since the LT4 came from the factory w/ roller rockers, the sensitivity change was needed for them.
have you checked your flywheel? maybe it's cracked or the torque convertor bolts are loose. the knock sensor will pickup that noise sometimes.
the knock sensor isnt picking up anything, and ok im not an lt1 knowledge bank..but you obviously get what was done to the cooling system for a cooler manifold charge it is a 1996 Lt1..Im not getting any "codes". they didnt ask for any data logging..as for reputation i never said they were bad..it is not a shut down dielining sound it is running and in gear when it does this only hot..so out goes the torque converter and fly wheel stuff ..I was looking for a tech guy that can help..any?
oh and for the comment of they know their stuff and something must be wrong with the engine...BIG NOPE! it didnt do this on the GM program so where do you go? back to what got changed..the program in the PCM!
sounds like you are having all these problems for 10hp, just put it back stock is what i'd do. but who am i?
ha no doubt..i was thinking that too..but the shift points are right on now and there may be more than 10 ponies obtained i was just being conservative so i wouldnt get my ass handed to me by some tech guy that would obviously know more about this than me..Im a Gen 1 guy..and previous generations of chevy powerplants I am almost clueless when it comes the the updated computer controlled powerplants..not totally clueless..I do know a little..but nothing about how to get the right computer to do the right thing with out fucking up the engine or take away from the reliability..thats why i leaned on the guy from PCM forless..
i don't know if it helps but there is a dude in my city that is a "gm" computer genius. i am pretty sure thats all he does is gm stuff i know he could fix you up shop name is "Ed Write Automotive" Tulsa Oklahoma 918-446-3019
not trying to steal a thread but can any of you guys tell me where I can get the info I need to remove the wiring/computer etc.to run a 1992 Ford Crown Vic 4.6 V8 and trans in an older body everything works mint stock 40,000 original miles.The frame is rotted beyond repair.I want to salvage all that I can of the stock harness.I have done 4.6 search but can't find what I need Thank You Leon
VRK, Ed Wright is good, BUT he will lock the computer so only he can adjust the tune and charge you accordingly. PCM has a good reputation based on the fact they do cheap tuning, they are overagresssive with the spark advance and turn down the knock retard. What year computer are you running? OBD1 or 2 What knock sensor are you running? They are different and must match the puter. Are you still running the MAF? and where is it located? Do you still have a functioning Check Engine lamp? I'm gonna be away from the puter this weekend but I can try and help after that.
ThanksPRoz..Naaa i dont want it locked up thanks for telling me that! yes pcm has a reputation, but it is slowly getting ruined when it comes to me. I have sent this back like 3 times and each time it turns out a different problem. (not this one this is the new one) last time the spedo was off..it just keeps going on to the next dam problem after i spend the shipping money to have it sent back each time..the dam tune is no longer worth the price. It is an OBD2 1996 dont know about the knock sensor , Bryan knew the car was stock . the MAF is in its original possition and yes the Check engine light does work, and has brought up codes, but not for this problem. I should have never messed with it! for the additional H.P. and shift points it really hasnt been worth the hassel. No my original "computer" had been sent back to get my core charge back..that was stupid..never should have done that eather..there i go trusting people again. i could just slap my self for that one..I once was a syinical(sp) man and i was not screwed over like this. once ive let my guard down , here i go again.
Just go get a Hypertech programmer or something and save yourself the hassle, you can pull 20hp easily with a few mods and adjust shift points and if something screws up you can put it back to the stock program without sending it in. I know if it's OBD2 there is one available.
VRF, PM me when you get a chance. I know someone who may be able to help you. He does tuning and can do the ODB2 stuff he just doesn't advertise. He knows more about tuning than bryan ever will.
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