anyone have any idea why im not getting juice to my coil...i have a wrie running from my distributor/coil and than one from my ignition to my coil than across the fire wall i have my two wires hooked onto my solonoid and than my positive and negative termianals hooked up...the only way we can get it to turn over is if we run a wire straight from the coil to the batter and then jump the solonoid....i cna't figure it out
Please rewrite using standard english, correct spelling, with punctuation and grammar and maybe we can help
sound like you need a constant B+ wire when the ignition is in the "on" position AND "start" position, going to your distributor/coil
Hey Manyolcars.. How about you try the same..sentences have periods, exclamation or question mark. You need a period at the end of your sentence. Duane..
i appreciate any suggestions people have, sorry its such bad grammar and whatever else is might be...but after 13 hours of working on the car today my brain isn't quite working right.
We have all had the problem of the brain not working after a long and frustrating day. When looking at this type of problem I try and make a little sketch of which wire goes from what connection to what other connection. I can't do this from reading your post, maybe if you could clarify things a bit we could help you.
Chances are the wires on your ignition switch are backwards. There are two terminals hot with the key, however only one stays hot in start as well. That should be the wire going to coil +. Have someone check the + coil with key on and then while you go to start.
pos- from starter pole from battery to ignition "batt". pos from ignition "run" to coil. coil negative to distributer/points. ignition "start" to starter seliniod. if you do not know what positions are which, get yourself a volt meter, or something to check continuity. put the settings on ohms(with wires disconnected from ignition) the ohms will jump when you find the correct position. (ohms being resistance between the two poles) first position(key click) "ACC", and COIL "run". second position/key turned manually, goes to the starter seliniod.
Don't forget to run your hot wire from the switch through a heat sink/block(whatever the hell you want to call it) before you put it on the + coil. I wouldn't wire 12 volts directly to that coil long with out the block, unless you just like buying coils.
Yup. I really didn't like the sound the oil inside the coil made when the damn thing exploded all over my arm. Ever had sizzling rice soup? very similar.
i havent been near one when they explode, but ive seen the aftermath! i sure feel bad you had to feel that. anyway, i think the ballast resister just saves points not the coil?
Depends on who you ask,I guess...I have seen them installed on the hot side to the coil (dodge) in between the coil and dizzy (mallory) and sometimes further upstream than that, depending who wired it. I think it's main purpose in life is to calm down ripples and noise, spikes and such. and of course to leave you stranded in the wendys parking lot in your buddy's Super Bee. The burn wasn't that bad...just surprising as hell. I was reaching for the distributor cap when it went- The noise scarde the***** out of me way worse than the burn- I damn near scalped myself on the hood latch hook!
That is terrible, I know when you are checking for voltage and don't realize about the resister block you can be fooled. What ends up going to the coil after the resister is a very small amount of voltage. I've never seen one blow(don't want to either) but I have felt that*****er hot as a firecracker when bypassing a resister.
Assuming that the wiring is correct, I would check for 12 volts at the ignition switch. If the switch came from an Auto Zone, O Rielys or a similar shop, the chances of it working are 50/50.
Good. The "S" connection wire goes to the "Start" on the ignition switch. The "R" connection wire goes to the junction of the Distributor "+" side and ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor goes to the ignition switch. Good. The solenoid might be bad. The purpose of the "R" connection, is to provide 12 volts to the distributor during start. If the solenoid is bad, then you won't have any juice to the coil. Rather than the solenoid being bad, it could be a bad wire, or the connectors are no good. Take the wires off the solenoid and check continuity and the connectors should be replaced with new ones.
They smell real good when theyre cooked too. Between the ugly burn and the stench, I'll run a ballast.
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