I'm in the process right now. Starting with a super solid Tudor body. I want to know what others have done when replacing the rivets that hold the body, brackets, sub frame, etc. together? I'm thinking about using carriage head bolts...anyone object?? Maybe even MIG some shit together. Would like to see others pictures of the tear down, and reassembly.
I used 10-24 x 1/2 button head allens when building my touring from pieces. There are lots of places a guy can't screw a hex together that the button head worked.
Yep thats what we did! its well worth the effort to clean out all the rust and boy did Henrys boys spot weld the shit out of mine!
My 29 Sedan was all apart when I got it, but it's going together with stainless bolts/nuts just to insure no rusting later. I'll keep an eye open for the hex headed areas, great idea. Not to hijack a thread, but are there gaskets between the body panels? I was going to Right Stuff mine, assembling after priming/painting edges.
i took my `28 tudor completely apart , every rivet . i use mostly welding and some bolts to put it back together and is fine after 11 years on the road i suggest when you reassemble it you have in on a level and square frame
Any gasketing between panels was usually done with something akin to old time friction tape, the asphalt or whatever impregnated canvas tape that your granddads or greatgranddads used for quickie repairs of radiator hoses etc. After 40-50 years it looks like a woven piece of brown/black paper falling out out the cracks when you dismantle something. I don't even know if they make the stuff anymore. The modern equivalent would be a good quality duct tape, I guess.
Was going to try and assemble it on the original frame its on now. It's probably not perfect (maybe some slight sagging around the motor/tranny. But the doors have always opened and closed really nice, and the gaps line up good. Should I maybe assemble on the new frame? (that I haven't bought yet...hopefully Bob isn't too busy in the shop)
Assemble it on the frame that is going to be under the car. Figure a stock "A" frame is at least 75 years old. There could be vast differences between one frame and another that you really can't see. But, as posted before, make sure it is straight and level when you assemble the car.
Do you have a new wood mounting block set? They are available from any of the Model A parts suppliers.
Check out this site: http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/index.htm#assorted About half way down the list is a complete rebuild of a coupe body, then info on riveting. Tudors are mixed construction...main components, sides, floors, etc. were riveted into subassemblies, but bodies were shipped to assembly plants as stacks of flat units then sides and rear bolted together...
Since I will be using an after market (stepped front and rear) frame, wouldn't it be better to assemble the car back on the original frame, then transfer over to the new after market one? This question has been bugging me all day... no one at the shop here has a frickin clue.
There was a good series of tech. articles in Street Rodder a few years ago. How to take apart and put back together a Model A Sedan body.
When I bought my coupe body pretty much the lower 6" were completely rusted out. I took the body all the way apart and welded in the patch panels. I bought a new subframe kit and put it together on the floor of my garage. I then built the body using the new subframe as a guide. Instead of rivets I mostly welded things together. This worked pretty well for me. Not until after the body was together did I set it on the frame. I used a '32 frame so I ended up cutting some of the subframe out in the rear. Friction tape is still available, we use it at work (electrical utility) I don't know where to buy it though. Good luck.
If you have the patience, it is a great way to end up with a model a that will live another 75 years easily. I am going to do my tudor this way. Though these links are for 28-29 sedans, lots of good info here: http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=114&SID=60 http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=115&SID=60 http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=119&SID=60
I've read those tech articles before dodge..thanks for the reminder. SO which way should I build this car?... Re-assemble the car on the original (slightly tired) frame, or get that new frame and reassemble on that??
I'm building a "mushy" 29 Tudor. I'm in the process or replacing the lower 6" of the entire body, including the bottoms of all structural verticals. The rivets I have drilled out fit the original holes very well, they swell with installation. The bolts you replace them with will never fit as tight as Henry did it. Build your body on a solid A frame, it will determine a lot of dimensions. Hopefully your car has good original wood, will make for less questions and work. 1/4-20 button head bolts are handy also, black oxide for fab, stainless for finish work.
This weekend I'm going to remove the body from the frame and see how true it is, straighten it, and set the body back on if i have the time to get it blasted and sealed up.. I plan on using the original body blocks, they are in pretty good shape...but 75 years old. What are guys doing to attach the quarter at the door latch post (B-Pillar) when removing the wood in this area and steeling it out? There are about 40 pin head sized holes that nails run from top to bottom that need filling. Here are a couple recent pictures from the last couple nights.
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