A Sedan Build Up

Thanks man...

Since we are building ( or at least shooting to build ) a Sedan, I wanted a little more stretch in the rails. I am at 106" in my coupe and I think another 4" up front would look sweet. We'll see.

 

ive got my sedan strecthed to a 109 so there is no cutting the firewall for motor clearance but chopperman your frame looks great i jus got done buildin a sedan like that and im startin on a new frame now for a buddy

 

and by the way what kinda 4 link u running a tri or parrallel i have a tri on mine and its z 12 inchs bout where urs is the links dont have to be straight ahead they can angle down

 

Thanks for doing another play by play build. I am working on an A sedan and I was measuring for the rear axle tonight. It looks like my rear axle will need to be 67 inches wide from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.

The body is 55" wide, I added 1.5" of space between the body and the tire on each side for articulation (3" total), and my wheel offset plus tire bulge is 4.5 inches (9"total). Anyone else running something similiar?

 

Glen I am using a 9" out of a ford truck in mine. I am about as far along with mine as you are

 

I plan to order a new one from Currie with a posi and 4.11 gears. Thats why I wanted to measure it down to the exact length I need.

 

Curious what currie direct quoted you ( PM ME ) I am having a local shop quote me right now on a Currie 65-67" 4.11 posi 9

 

link placement.

I am running into upper issues, so I started another thread here
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2208640#post2208640

 

have you looked at the two link/torque arms that El Polacko does?

 

well, I think I'm gonna re-work the Z. Until I can get some fab time in, feast your eyes on these . Just arrived today

 

well I feel better I hacked the rear off and fabbed a new section. Moved the z forward 4" and andded another 3" into the Z for a total of 12". I needed to do this due to the monster 820x15 rears I ordered. I could have made due, but decided since I'm in there might as well do it right. I also had to cut 3" out of my link bars. Which ment I also got to re tap them. That was fun

Pics are crappy but you get the idea.
Should have a rolling chassis in a couple weeks.

 

well, it looks like it's been confirmed I need a rear end that's at least 65" WMS to WMS. I was mocking up with a 55' chevy 10B ( 60" ), so I'm headed to PNP today to find a 65" ford 9... I got a quote from currie yesterday for a new 9"... 2500.00 bones I can find something and have a locker installed on the cheap.

More to come

 

The '73 and up Ford pickup is the right width for you then. It comes in at about a shade over 65". Nice project I enjoy following it.

 

we be wide now !!!! 68" WMS to WMS before adapters. might just have the axles re-drilled from 5x5.5 to 5x4.5 to avoid using the adapters and getting out there anymore. Did some more research and it looks like people are using 65-68", So I am pretty comfy with this.

I've got a line an a 65" I'm going to pick up now. Can never have too many 9"s laying around right ?

 

can you get me a body measurement at the top of your rear wheels ?


Thanks

 

FWIW....I ordered a 67" from Currie. it should give me 1.5" of clearance between the body and the tire on each side. My tire should be right at the beltline which is 55" wide.

 

Chopperman, I'm impressed by the way your project is going.
The concerns expressed about "gunk" being trapped inside the frame WITHOUT using sleeves around the dimpled frame holes, got me to thinking about my '41 Ford PU.
(NO, not trying to take this thread OT BTW)

After all my frame work was finished; I had the frame POWDER COATED. I asked the powder coating company to pay special attention to all the "nooks and crannies" - ESPECIALLY in any BOXED areas!

Now that you have elected NOT to sleeve the dimpled frame holes - nice work BTW - which I can see is next to impossible to get a smooth finish.

IF you have the finished frame POWDER COATED and have them pay attention to the INSIDES - powder coating is an electrostatic process that gets inside EVERYTHING if done properly.

The cost of powder coating vs. prep and paint is WAY cheaper, believe it or not. Plus getting PAINT INSIDE the frame is almost impossible.

THEN, with a couple of openings at key points - the front frame horns for example - you can stop by you local coin wash once and a while, and "blow" any accumulated "gunk" out from the INSIDES of the frame rails.

If the powder coating people did their job, you won't need to worry about rust forming on the insides - they will be coated. (but a drain hole at the lowest point would help)

My '41 has been on the road for almost 20 years; and even been to and on the Bonneville Salt Flats - where you can REALLY get rust (corrosion) to form on anything NOT protected - and not a single "pin point" of rust! (or "gunk!")

 

removed info from this thread & added to choppermans other one
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207227

 

\
Got your PM..

Thanks again, I really appreciate it. I guess I'm still in shell shock from how wide this bad boy is. 67/68 is crazy wide. but it is what it is.

I can't wait to see your project completed.

 

even my 3.5 yr old couldn't believe it and had to take some measurements.

 

Well, I haven't made much progress as I've been working 12-16 hour days. Pops is making a lot of progress on the engine though. Just got the blower back from a fresh rebuild.

 

Chopperman..next Time On The Holes You Could Take It To Any Muffler Shop And Have Them Swedge The Pipe To Fit, Even Put The Pipe In The Hole And Then Swedge It. Super Nice Job!!

Reggie

 

frame is welded up and a pic of yours truly

 

engine is ready to bolt in

 

Another good thread full of invaluable info. Subscribed to, thanks.

 

turns out the 9" was junk. third member housing was all busted up inside. Always a gamble with PNP.

Going to try and hang the front end today

 

That's a shame about the 9".

FWIW if you are going to powdercoat the frame (as suggested above) I have had good luck with it when it is blasted first, then a phophoric wash, zinc rich prime and then the powder. I used to do this on some of the race cars I have had, I used to run a winter race where they salted the road to keep it from icing up (yes it was a sanctioned race and yes salt, Sodium Chloride). I only bring this up as several people here (Alaska) thought I was an idiot for going to the "extra" expense of the "extra" steps (as opposed to just coating the steel). I never had a problem with the coating coming off, or rust building under the coating. The other guys, well they just blamed it on powder coating in general and say they won't use it again.

Hope that helps.

 

Looking killer chops!


We're gonna have to change your screen name to "Builderman"

Damn son, I haven't even got my coupe on all 4's yet, and your allready on to your next build!

Soooo fuckin cool that you get to do this with/for your Dad!

I was just chatting with mine about he wishes he could be here to help.

Keep it up!!!!!

 

Got to bolt up all my front end pieces from Riley. Project really starts to take shape when you can bolt BIG stuff on.

Compressor took a dump, so I bought a cheapie from kragen so I could run the plasma. Pic of PAPA and my son putting it together.

 

Hey what up dude? I see your getting started on your Dad's car. I've got the coupe down for the winter to finish it up. I am building cars full time now. Are you going to paint your dad's? I've got a spray booth now!!!!!