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Cutting flat safety glass

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bumpstick, May 12, 2007.

  1. Bumpstick
    Joined: Sep 10, 2002
    Posts: 1,411

    Bumpstick
    Member

    Alright, so I spent the morning going to various Sun Valley (junkyard capitol of America) gl*** shops seeing how much it would cost to cut 2 flat pieces of safety gl*** for my windshield. Well, the quotes ranged from $200-300. I wasn't expecting that. Am I just being naieve? Or am I just living in another era?
    Anyway, how hard is it to go find a flat piece of gl*** in a junkyard and cut it myself? Any tips, advise, cautions or flatout "DON'T DO IT'S!!!!"
    Thanks, yall. -stick
     
  2. I've had the gl*** cut on my Boattail for $22 each, by a shop in Burbank, called Future gl*** 818-842-9629. They cut all the gl*** for Hollywood Hot Rods.
    They are good and fast.
     
  3. Bumpstick
    Joined: Sep 10, 2002
    Posts: 1,411

    Bumpstick
    Member

    Cool! Thanks, Eddie
     
  4. peanut
    Joined: Mar 16, 2005
    Posts: 489

    peanut
    Member

    yea i'm with you on the price thing!!! i got gl*** put in my A frame a few weeks ago. and checked every place in town. i got it done for 50 bucks. and i thought that was ok. but everyone else wanted 150 to 200 bucks for it? i think most places think $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ when you say its a old car or something odd!
     
  5. Gomes
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 171

    Gomes
    Member

    $125 is the going rate .you can cut flat laminated gl*** just as long as it is not pitted if it is pitted there is a good chance of it runnin, might be hard finding good flat gl*** at a juckyard better off buying new.
     
  6. glmarkie
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 262

    glmarkie
    Member

    I once got a quote of 600 dollars to install side gl*** in the frames of my buddies 55 chevy hardtop. That was with me providing the gl*** as well as removing it from the car. Did some research on it and installed them myself in less than an hour including the wing window seals.There are some real con artists out there.
     
  7. s.r.i.
    Joined: Aug 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,078

    s.r.i.
    Member
    from Hell

    Typically the HUGE price difference is which type of "safety gl***". I know a gl*** man and asked him why the price differences from shop to shop. His response was Lam safety gl*** made specifically for cars, when hit breaks into tiny pieces, just like we have all seen. Lam safety gl*** like what is in many shops doors and windows breaks into longer "strips" when hit. Now, most guys use the cheaper "strip" ones (and I do too sometimes), but which one do you want your head to hit?
     
  8. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834

    Johnny1290
    Member

    Perfect. This is just the info I need. I know who I'll be calling tomorrow!
     
  9. elwood blues
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 462

    elwood blues
    Member

    if you dont mind doing it yourself and you have a good sandblaster and compresser you could do it useing the method i have used on curved gl***. first you tape the liveing **** out of the area you dont want messed with if you have metal tape this seems to work good do alot of layers. then get a big peice of foam to set the gl*** evenly on. get some realy corse sand and blast away it takes forever and a day but you run little risk of cracking the gl***.
     
  10. Fidget
    Joined: Sep 10, 2004
    Posts: 1,013

    Fidget
    Member

    Contact NONAME here on the board. Jim is a long time gl*** guy, and has lots of patterns.
     
  11. ZZ-IRON
    Joined: Feb 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,964

    ZZ-IRON
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I took my cracked W/S half from my 47 Buick to Harmon gl*** here, called first for a price. The gl*** cost me $32.50 total with tax. About 3 years ago.

    I put it in my self never did it before. 2 piece center divide, soaped up the old rubber took my time wiggled it in to place. It settled in the rubber after awhile and i was done, it didn't leak.
     
  12. tdoty
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 821

    tdoty
    Member

    Actually, lam safety glas doesn't shatter into any kind of pieces. Lam gl*** has a layer of plastic laminated between 2 sheets of gl*** so it, in theory, stays together even when broken.

    Tempered safety gl*** is a different story, and most likely the difference is what s.r.i. posted.

    Had a similar problem with a window for a sandblast cabinet. Local gl*** dealer wanted $200 and all he had was tinted gl***. 15 miles away, the gl*** was cut, in clear, laminated safety gl*** for $55.

    Got to shop around. The $200 quote was from a place that does mostly cars and business windows. $55 price was from a shop that does all kinds of gl*** - quick and well-priced, imho.

    Tim D.
     
  13. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,772

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Laminated safety plate gl*** is required by law for windshields in all motor vehicles.
    Ford was the first of the low-priced cars to use laminated safety plate gl*** when the Model A was introduced. The side and back gl***es were still plate gl*** until 1935-36, yeah, the stuff like is in your living room windows, ouch.

    Tempered gl*** is used in side gl***es and rear windows, but never windshields.
     
  14. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,237

    nexxussian
    Member

    Yeah, laminated gl*** stays in one piece, but the car stuff breaks into smaller pieces (that hopefully stay stuck to the plastic core) than commercial stuff. Unless of course you have the 'new' 'Spall Shield' (Dupont?) with it's layer of polly on the inside so you don't run up against a carpet of razor blades. Maybe this was what s.r.i.'s friend was speaking of?
     
  15. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834

    Johnny1290
    Member

    Sorry to bring this back from the dead but just to update my earlier post, future gl*** wants $100 a piece for each piece of flat laminate gl*** if I supply the patterns. I'd love to find a cheaper place, there has to be one, I'm just not sure even where to start
     
  16. What kind of car do you have?
     
  17. that's crazy...each piece would be about $30 at the gl*** place i go to , but shipping would kill you
     
  18. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834

    Johnny1290
    Member

    Oops sorry didn't think to mention that, it's a chop top '51 Ford, all flat gl*** with patterns, no install.
     
  19. My buddy here in Houston got it for $20 apiece, too. Ya gotta keep shopping.
     
  20. old beet
    Joined: Sep 25, 2002
    Posts: 5,750

    old beet
    Member

    You need to make the patterns or pay $50-75 an hour for the gl*** guy to do it. Then shop all the small shops, should be $30-40 each piece. Its an easy install.
     
  21. Z48LT1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 45

    Z48LT1
    Member

    There are a number of places offering gl*** for rods who advertise in the magazines and have web addresses. I've never tried any so can't recommend one, but let your keyboard do your walking...

    Cheers -- Gary
     
  22. I think it depends on whether they want that kind of business or not. A lot of gl*** shops don't like to do custom stuff like that, so they charge some huge amount for jobs they don't really feel like doing. Shop around and you'll find someone that'll do it at a reasonable rate. I had a back window cut a few weeks ago for $70.00.
     
  23. Rootie Kazoootie
    Joined: Nov 27, 2006
    Posts: 8,130

    Rootie Kazoootie
    Member
    from Colorado

    Forget the big shops and look for the little one man shop tucked away in a industrial area. If you can wait until he has some "drop" pieces from another job it will be real cheap, if he has to cut it out of a bigger piece it will probably be a little more.
     
  24. brewsir
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,278

    brewsir
    Member

    lonewolf likes this.
  25. Someone do a Tech on restoration... of old tech photos! I'd like to see that one.
     
  26. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834

    Johnny1290
    Member

    Wow thanks all and thanks OldBeet for the tech! Fletcher #2, green with a gold ball looks like the cutter to get!

    I have an old how to build hotrods tex smith book I think and that's how they do it, cut it and break it, and offer burning as an alternative, and they don't sand the edges, either.

    I got a quote from a wholesale gl*** place of 48" x 96" safety for $145. Not that I could actually transport a piece that big but it gives me an idea at least.

    I'll keep my eyes peeled for some little shop that might take the work. like a lotta things in socal, it seems like it'd be easy to find a cheap place but it aint, IMHO.

    Is there any cheaper alternative to the restoration catalogs for window rubber/fuzzies/ anything like that? Just wondering, those things cost more than the gl***!
     
  27. pete324rocket
    Joined: Nov 7, 2007
    Posts: 99

    pete324rocket
    Member

    Does anyone know more about using either a sandblaster or a gl*** bead cabinet would be the most successful way to cut safety gl***,rather than using a gl*** cutter.I have a lot of curves and am replacing the rear door gl*** on a '56 olds.Mistakes are costly.
     
  28. FEDER
    Joined: Jan 5, 2003
    Posts: 1,270

    FEDER
    Member

    One thing not mentioned yet. When OLDBEET did the gl*** for My shoebox after cutting it, He ground the entire perimeter. Then polished the tops and sides that are exposed. Oh and You cant cut the gl*** that breaks into tiny pieces its tempered. FEDER
     
  29. guiseart
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 3,862

    guiseart
    Member

    Diamond cutt-off wheel in a Dremel... do it yourself, screw the middleman.
     
  30. pete324rocket
    Joined: Nov 7, 2007
    Posts: 99

    pete324rocket
    Member

    Before I go out and buy one of these,can you enlighten me on just how much I need to score the gl*** to get a real advantage over using the old fashioned cutter with the wheel? And will it wear out quickly? I'd much rather have the gl*** break where I want it too....not where I don't. But I guess that's the whole deal really. I'm ***uming of course that I will do both sides in exactly the same place.I don't care about the sharp edges since they are in a frame. Thanks...pete
     

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