There was a "How To" on Trucks TV showing how to remove rust using baking soad detergent booster and a battery charger in a tank of water(tables**** per gallon he said). He didn't go into alot of info what it might hurt and how long to do parts for. Has any one done this? I have a set of '46-'48 axle Bells that I'd like to do this to. I'm going to replace the big bearing race(after) in the bottom of the bell (when it sits on the floor). Will it hurt the axle tube bearing at the other end(backing plate end)? Could I do it and just leave the end with the bearing out of the water. How long should I keep the axle tube in the tank? He showed it turned the rust black. How do you clean off the black or do you just clean it with paint prep and paint? Thanks John
Check out the posts on removing rust with mol***es and water. It works, is cheap but labor intensive.
Hi John I did this just last week on my Austin 7 body. It works really well, and removes paint too. Connect Negative to your part. Positive to sacrificial piece of steel (doesn't go anywhere but ends up rusted to hell) Try to keep surface areas of both pieces the same. Mine was in for 36 hours connected to a inverter welder (40 amps 55 Volts - on the dial, don't know actual output) that's a lot of juice- be careful!! The black stuff is iron oxide too - clean off with pressure washer/brushing while still wet. Check out the tech thread or google the topic - there is plenty info around. Barry
3034 did a thread on the method you have posted, using a large tank. You can find his on a search on rust, then compare notes. Not sure about the baking soda you mentioned? he used washing soda made by Arm & Hammer with his. The process gives of H gas use in a ventilated area and no sparks, thats the warning given. My friend said this method is real old, i ask why didn't you mention it before, he said he forgot about it. It works they say
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