building a 283 to go into a '52 chevy, not looking for anything for the strip, just something to make good low to mid end power, plan on using stock rebuild double hump heads with 1.94/1.50 valves, and TH350, 3.08 rear. i was looking at the lunati duntov repop but then i'd have to change to solid lifters, and its got hyd. in it now. also looking at the summit cam and lifter kits because they are priced right and its just a crane cam repackaged. considering this cam here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-K1103&autoview=sku input? thanks!
While I'll damn near always argue for a solid lifter, the combination is the deciding factor. Two points of interest, how heavy is the car? and what size combustion chambers in those heads and the style of pistons(or ultimately the compression ratio)? Both of those factors combined with the diminutive size of the motor could add up to a slug if your not careful. However, in a light car with a decent CR you could get away with a lot of cam. In a heavier car then the cam you have pointed out looks pretty good to me. Maybe it will still have a bit of a lope to it.
the car is about 3000lbs, and the motor has flat tops and the heads are 64ccs so im figuring about 9:1 CR
don't forget to call the manufacturer. I know comp cams is nice about helping you determine what would work best given all the variables and what you want to achieve.
That aspect shouldn't matter; if you're changing the cam, you'll need new lifters anyway, and it's not like an Olds or Cadillac with nonadjustable valvetrain--you can use the same pushrods and rocker arms with either lifter type. If you go for the Duntov, make sure it's the '57-'63 spec cam, not the "30-30".
i usually don't recogmend cams , too many different opinions and expectations..but here it is: stay away from the Duntov cam , that doesn't put the power where you need it with your car..the bottom end. a 283 with a th350 and 3.08 gears in a 3000 lb car needs bottom end power. that's why i suggest Summit's 1102 dual pattern cam. the profile is identicle to Edelbrocks Performer cam (not performer RPM),,it is also called an RV cam by some makers i've used many and always been pleased...keep in mind it is not a race car cam , just a good street cam for cruising
36-3window is correct- the Duntov cam was designed for: 1. High-RPM road-racing 2. in a lightweight Corvette. ...neither of which applies to you.
I agree with the above to avoid any type of long duration cam for that small displacement motor in a daily driver type combo. I like the 260H from Comp Cams, but to be honest I had one in a 305 and really couldn't tell that it ran any better than stock. If it were me, I'd look at some of the Xtreme energy truck cams from Comp for excellent torque characteristics.
Get one that doesn't require a high stall / non-stock stall torque converter and it probably won't be "too much" cam.
My .02 would be the comp 280H. It will work good down low (with the right intake). It also sounds much bigger than it is (tight lobe seperation has that affect). It would work better with a little bit more stall speed and maybe around a 3.73 gear. .That dual pattern summit mentioned above would be good too. . . You should absolutley call a cam company though as they are the experts and there are A LOT of variables in picking the right grind. .
i also want it to have somewhat of a choppy idle without having to run a stall converter if possible, what should i look for in the cam profile or am i just starting to ask for too much out of a cam. thanks again guys, your suggestions are much appreciated and are take seriously
I think with the set up you have I would choose anything under 224 duration @.050 that way you're at about 1000-4500 rpm. May not sound like much but you will have *****en low end. Don't go too big with the carb keep it at least 600 cfm. It will be a s****y set up.
1969 Z 28 cam. It is a solid but it is a terrific grind and very streetable It is designed for a 302 but would be fine in a 283. Pulls to 6000, peaks at 5800. If you want a hydraulic and I prefer them under 7000 RM then i would look seriously at the comp cams Extreme series. Very good cams with the intake lobes reworked to build low end torque and give good manners. See the one that says "maximum for use with stock converter". if that is a limiting factor for you. There are a lot of advantages to an hydraulic cam. in fact there is only one disadvantge which is above 7000 RPM they are not practical but below and too 7000 they will woop*** a solid everytime. A hydraulic requires approx 14 degress less duration to obtain the same RPM as a solid because it doesnt require the clearance ramps a solid does. (approx 7 degrees at the front and seven degrees at the end of the lift cycle for clearance. Also when a hydraulic says .500" lift you get .500" lift (minus about .006") when a solid says .500" lift if you read the cam card it says "lift at 000 lash" which means it actually only gives .500" lft minus the valve lash (say for instance .032" lash which was typical) which gives then a net lift of .468" Now doesnt that tick ya off! So for a solid lifter to equal a hydraulic cam with 260 Duration and .500" lift it would need to have 274 duration and 532" lift. (or of you figure in the .006 give factor for the hyd lifter .526" lift) Don
thanks for all the replies you guys, all the info has really helped alot, one other question, should i advance the cam when i install it or is that even necessary for my application?
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